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Hey guys, I have the overflow kit that you can get from Fly-High for the 230. It comes with 400 pound sacs in the rear trunks. Today I was just playing around and wanted to see what the surf wave will look like once I get a board and get into it. So we filled up the factory port tank and "belly" tank plus the fly-high 400 and the wave was great. My problem was that when I tried to drain it, it took every bit of 20-25 minutes to drain. I can't help but think that this can't be right. If this were the case then no one would put up with overflow kits. Does anyone know of a way I can make this process faster? If pics would help I can post some later today. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
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is the sac vented? How many hoses did you hook up to the sac?2010 Super Air Nautique 210 Team Edition -
Yes there is a hose that splices into the vent hole on the side of the boat. There is one tube on the back of the sac and one on the top that runs to the vent.Originally posted by HS View PostComment
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Sounds like the vent supplies both the sac and the hard tank at the same time. This means the sac is mainly draining into the hard tank via gravity. Close the vent to the hard tank and run a 1/4 line through the sac and into both lines so the hard tank can get air if the sac colapses. The pump will then be more efficient pulling water out of the sac.2013 G23 450 with NSS (175hrs) and still have the original prop
2010 SANTE 230 343 (280hrs)
pre 2010 - various open bow boats and jet skisComment
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2010 Super Air Nautique 210 Team EditionComment
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What Swankster said. System should drain just as fast as it fills. Not sure how they can rig your tank to vent and fill at the same time???? Overflow from tank goes to bottom of bag and out the top of bag comes the vent line to the through hull fitting. Here is the pic of the 1/4" lines that are needed to keep the bags from forming a vacuum and collapsing the tanks. I used 30lb test gorilla braid fishing line to tie my 1/4" tube to the hose fittings.
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Thanks for all of the help guys. This what I am working with. The first pic (clear hose with blue handle) is the hose that the water fills/drains out of. The blue handle allows me to shut them off if I don't want the extra weight. The second pic is my ventilation setup. The red handle lets me turn the vent off or on. The third pic shows the whole setup in the rear trunk. Swankster: I was a little confused by what you were saying about the venting changes I need to make. Maybe these pics will give you a little idea of whats going on.Comment
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What a overly complicated mess that is. Basically if you open your blue valve and close your red valve you have what most of us all have with our piggy back systems. Yours is just overly complicated did i say that already? If I were you I would just get ride of the whole works including the 400lbs bags and get some 750's. To piggyback; the line that has the blue valve is your bag fill. The line coming from the bag going into that t-mess is the overflow/vent line. You can always control how much weight you are running by how many times you press your fill buttons.
I think your problem draining was that you had the red handle valve in the open position. Prob not good for your impellers on your pump as I bet you were sucking lots of air.Comment
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Thank you so much. Next time out I will definitely try draining with the red handle closed.Originally posted by Nordicron View PostComment
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So do yall think it should take about 2-3 pump cycles? It took like 2 1/2 for me to fill it.Comment
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Having studied the pictures, I think Nordi is right on. On the drain cycle, that clear fill line is acting as a vent bypassing your sac so your pump isn't pulling water, just air. And, yes, running them dry is something I try to avoid, as well. Nordi is also right, that if you open blue and close red, you'll achieve the same function as a piggy back system. You are right to be concerned about air lock, so run the tube Nordi shows, or mechanically fasten the sac so it cannot go flat after it is empty. That is because air MUST pass thru the sac as the hard tank continues to empty -- otherwise, the pump will bend the hard tank inwards due to the suction force created by the pump, so be sure to keep an airway thru the sac (my dealer tells of bent "senders" having to be pulled out of the tanks).2010 Super Air Nautique 210 Team EditionComment
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Should be -- I think 2 to 3 handles my piggy backed 750s, so your 400s ought to be done in that time for sure.Originally posted by perry386 View Post2010 Super Air Nautique 210 Team EditionComment
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Man I think you built the space shuttle to get on your roof! I used Nordi set up last year after bending a sending unit. Sometimes simple is better. One cycle fills my factory tank 2 fills my 500 sac. Same when it's time to empty if sitting still. If moving it takes 3.2008 210 SAN TE (Moonraker Yellow over Midnight Blue)Comment
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If you tend to take out your sacs alot, use the quick connects on the sac and build a back to back quick connect splice to take the place of your sacs. I took my out for winterization and when I had a large crowd on the boat that were not wakeboarders. I was afraid of someone storing something sharp in the lockers and having to buy a new sac.2013 G23 450 with NSS (175hrs) and still have the original prop
2010 SANTE 230 343 (280hrs)
pre 2010 - various open bow boats and jet skisComment
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Ok thanks guys. Can I get around adding an extra "safety hose" to the system by just watching the sac and making sure it doesn't go completely flat?Originally posted by HS View PostComment
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