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Last year I decided that it was finally time to change the carpet in my 1999 SAN. But I did not necessarily want to replace it with more carpet, so I started researching options. After researching all of the faux teak options, I contacted Zach at N3Boatworks to discuss Seadek. Zach provided a lot of encouragement and agreed to provide whatever assistance and guidance he could to help me with the project and I decided to install a full Seadek floor. I finally completed the project last week and thought I’d share with you.
Obviously, Seadek did not have a pattern for my boat, so I ordered some mylar sheets from Seadek to lay down on the floor and trace out a pattern
While I waited for the mylar sheets to arrive, and after pulling the interior, stereo, ballast, etc. from the boat, I began removing the old carpet. I don’t know how many of you have paid attention to how much carpet is in your 210, but I was shocked to discover how much there really is. I ultimately decided to remove all carpet except for what was on the hull walls. This meant removing carpet from the floor from bow to stern, including all of the carpet from underneath the observer’s seat, underneath the helm, from the underside of the bow seating, from the bow floor (which goes underneath the bow walkway), seat bases, hinged seat platforms, transmission cover, engine dividers…everywhere.
Next, I began the process of removing the glue and staples that held the carpet in place. This was, by far, the most time-consuming part of the entire process. There was glue under every bit of carpet…and then some. I scraped and sanded and wire brushed for weeks to remove all the glue. But I eventually got it all off.
Once the carpet was removed, it became evident that the main floor panel, ski-locker lid, and bow subfloor were no longer the correct size. Without carpet wrapping them, they were all too small and too thin. I was also surprised to discover how crooked and out-of-square each piece was. The curve of the ski-locker lid looked like it had been cut by had with a jig-saw and did not even come close to matching the curve in the floor opening. And the bow subfloor had actually been broken into three pieces at some point (I assume at the factory) and stapled back together. And it also lacked a uniform curve to match the bow. Ultimately, I added material (UHMW) edges of the main floor panel and the ski-locker lid so they would match the openings in the floor. And I made a new bow subfloor with the same material.
After removing all of the glue and staples and modifying/making the floor pieces, I cleaned and prepared everything and coated it all with a high-grade epoxy primer.
Next, since Seadek (obviously) does not cover the entire floor and leaves seams, I was faced with the final decision as to what to coat the floor with before adhering the Seadek. Gel coat is the obvious (although expensive) choice for the floor, but I wanted to coat the plastic seat bases, observer’s seat base, seat platforms, etc. with the same color and material as the floor. Accordingly, I opted for a urethane coating that I color-matched to my existing gel and could apply to all of the surfaces, which I did myself. The product is great because it leaves an orange-peel finish that hides many of the imperfections in the materials beneath but is also EXTREMELY hard and durable when dry. Unlike gel coat, I don’t have to worry about scratching or chipping it.
During the time that I was performing the work outlined above, I also traced the floor on the initial mylar sheets and sent them back to Seadek. Seadek prepared a CAD of my pattern and sent me computer-printed mylar sheets based upon the CAD. The first set required adjustments, which I made directly to the CAD mylar sheets, which I sent back to Seadek for modifications. Seadek prepared another CAD and sent me a second pattern a few weeks later, which also required a few more small modifications. After those adjustments were made, Seadek sent me a final CAD from which I ordered my final floor.
I performed all of the work myself and I am extremely pleased with the final outcome. I have attached a before photo and some photos of the process and the final results. It will likely require several posts to get all the photos up. If anyone has any hints about posting larger pics, please let me know.
Obviously, Seadek did not have a pattern for my boat, so I ordered some mylar sheets from Seadek to lay down on the floor and trace out a pattern
While I waited for the mylar sheets to arrive, and after pulling the interior, stereo, ballast, etc. from the boat, I began removing the old carpet. I don’t know how many of you have paid attention to how much carpet is in your 210, but I was shocked to discover how much there really is. I ultimately decided to remove all carpet except for what was on the hull walls. This meant removing carpet from the floor from bow to stern, including all of the carpet from underneath the observer’s seat, underneath the helm, from the underside of the bow seating, from the bow floor (which goes underneath the bow walkway), seat bases, hinged seat platforms, transmission cover, engine dividers…everywhere.
Next, I began the process of removing the glue and staples that held the carpet in place. This was, by far, the most time-consuming part of the entire process. There was glue under every bit of carpet…and then some. I scraped and sanded and wire brushed for weeks to remove all the glue. But I eventually got it all off.
Once the carpet was removed, it became evident that the main floor panel, ski-locker lid, and bow subfloor were no longer the correct size. Without carpet wrapping them, they were all too small and too thin. I was also surprised to discover how crooked and out-of-square each piece was. The curve of the ski-locker lid looked like it had been cut by had with a jig-saw and did not even come close to matching the curve in the floor opening. And the bow subfloor had actually been broken into three pieces at some point (I assume at the factory) and stapled back together. And it also lacked a uniform curve to match the bow. Ultimately, I added material (UHMW) edges of the main floor panel and the ski-locker lid so they would match the openings in the floor. And I made a new bow subfloor with the same material.
After removing all of the glue and staples and modifying/making the floor pieces, I cleaned and prepared everything and coated it all with a high-grade epoxy primer.
Next, since Seadek (obviously) does not cover the entire floor and leaves seams, I was faced with the final decision as to what to coat the floor with before adhering the Seadek. Gel coat is the obvious (although expensive) choice for the floor, but I wanted to coat the plastic seat bases, observer’s seat base, seat platforms, etc. with the same color and material as the floor. Accordingly, I opted for a urethane coating that I color-matched to my existing gel and could apply to all of the surfaces, which I did myself. The product is great because it leaves an orange-peel finish that hides many of the imperfections in the materials beneath but is also EXTREMELY hard and durable when dry. Unlike gel coat, I don’t have to worry about scratching or chipping it.
During the time that I was performing the work outlined above, I also traced the floor on the initial mylar sheets and sent them back to Seadek. Seadek prepared a CAD of my pattern and sent me computer-printed mylar sheets based upon the CAD. The first set required adjustments, which I made directly to the CAD mylar sheets, which I sent back to Seadek for modifications. Seadek prepared another CAD and sent me a second pattern a few weeks later, which also required a few more small modifications. After those adjustments were made, Seadek sent me a final CAD from which I ordered my final floor.
I performed all of the work myself and I am extremely pleased with the final outcome. I have attached a before photo and some photos of the process and the final results. It will likely require several posts to get all the photos up. If anyone has any hints about posting larger pics, please let me know.
. Also, if anyone is curious if it will fit the boat for 15 bucks+ shipping you can get dry fits at your door to verify. Cheap check point for a big investment. I want to thank Jared for being patient with me and Seadek as the end result was totally worth the price of admission.
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