loading

[ag4ever]

Hate to tell you, but I put the trailer in till the water is just over the rear of the wheel well, and the front wheel well is out of the water. If I put it any deeper, then the boat won't center properly, if I go shallower, then it won't go on all the way. Even then I MUST power on to get up to the bow roller, and sometimes even have some winch assistance. Most of the lakes I go to are limestone bottom or mud bottom. The limestone bottoms won't have rocks thrown very easily sine it is one huge rock. The mud bottoms, just churn up muck, and only leave a nice big hole at the end of the ramp. Also most of the ramps I go to are fairly steep, so there is a large angle of attack on the trailer, meaning it does not just float on. you must power it up. Even then it won't get to the fully seated position all the time. I just attach the winch strap, pull out, and give it a nice sharp and short jab to the brakes to slide the boat home, then tighten the strap fully.

This all just means that each ramp is different, and the same rules don't apply to all ramps.

[MARK-S]

I see your point, they are all different. I just havnt been on a ramp that is too steep to wench on, but I have seen them.

[lcap]

My ramp is steep enough it broke my winch on the first use. Nothing like a 300 lb rated winch for a 3,200 lb boat!

Still can't load the SAN for love or money! Everything on it has come off or fallen apart: Winch, Carpet, Guides, Paint, Diamond Plate and the gelcoat on the bottom of my boat. This could very well be the end of me and my Nautique!

[AbunDiga909]

lcap I don't really understand what your talking about but if your problem is your ramp is too steep, I think I can help you.

What you would have to do is put the trailer in so that as far as the front portion of the boat is concerned, its normal in that it is on the trailer partially. However, you must lave it so the weels are a little under the surface and then when the front portion is on the trailer, (it will have to be connected if its too steep) and then hold on to one of the guide posts and keep the boat in place centered. One of the ramps we used to use is like this and once when I didn't hold onto the guide post the boat rested and fell on the trailer. Oops!

Is that your problem? :?

[lcap]

AbundDiga909

Sorry I should have clarified that I have owned tournement boats for a very long time. Hated my old DHM trailer had 9 years. Dealer would not let me custom order anything but a DHM.

Shallow, Deep, Long, Short Ramps, Winch, Power Load, Depth of Trailer--Nothing matters, nothing helps!

Their is no polite or politically correct way of saying it, the trailer is a POS. DHM's response is "we have not figured out the geometry of the 210." I'll translate, its the manufacturers way of politely stating their own trailer is a POS!

I've already given my dealer the heads up my boat will not be leaving the Shop with a DHM under it after its winterized.

[AbunDiga909]

I don't see why you can't order a Ram-Lin driectly through the factory if you dealer isn't letting you, which also suprises me. I know DHM is in CA, far from Ram-Lin, but I'm sure there are other Ram-Lins in CA. Whats the "reason" your dealer is giving you.

I feel that if we're droping 50+K on a boat and our trailer is ruining physically and we are not being allowed to change what is happening something should be done by the dealer for free. Tell me what happens regarding the trailer after winterazation if its not to much to ask. I'm pretty interested.

[SGY]

Icap, I'm getting the impression that your dealer better take care of you or they are going to lose a customer. Hopefully, that will be incentive enough. Good luck.

[lcap]

SGY

My dealer was aware their refusal to order anything but a DHM caused me to check out MC's again. If the MC dealer had a good service department I would have purchased an X-2.

In fairness to my dealer, they thought DHM had made improvements on the trailer since 95. They were wrong!

In fairness to DHM: I know of another 04 SAN owner that was having trouble with loading and DHM replaced the trailer.

I'll see what they propose next month.

[SGY]

Best of luck to you. Frankly its high time CC started treating the trailer as part of the whole package. Maybe with their new facility, we'll see CC trailers again. (Doubtful, I know.)

[AbunDiga909]

I wouldn't be surprized if Ram-Lin and CC at least got something going together thats more than they have now. Since they now have this new facility, maybe a "wing" of it just for the Nautique Ram-Lin trailers. After all, they are both located right next to each other, practially all dealers get Ram-Lin, and pretty much everybody who has one is very pleased with their Ram-Lin. Also, this way, more customazations could be made to the trailer so its more of a Nautiuqe trailer oppose to just a regular Ski Boat trailer. Whaddya think?

And anyway, Ram-Lin does the painting for the FCT's now... so its not like their just another trailer company thats close to them...

[Dr.John]

Just a couple of comments:
Maybe we should articulate specific problems we are having, trying to be as detailed as possible. In so doing try, to differentiate between design flaws vs quality of construction and material.
As an example, I think the Ram-Lin trailer I have is constructed as well as any manufacturer I have seen in the last 20 years, probably better. However, my satisfaction with it is low, not because I think it is a POS, but because of an obvious design flaw that can cause damage to the bow. Specifically, (on my set-up) the bow eye on the hull is low enough and the V-Block and mounting gusset are aft enough that the eye literally hooks under the V-Block when powering on. I tore the first "V" up, then bought a replacement from Ram-lin. If that V-Block was not there, I would have never had a problem. The "V" is just there to keep the bow from bouncing on the road, and is an option at extra cost. A good option if you trailer a lot.
Either CC should have placed the eye higher on the bow, or the "V" bracket should have been place closer to the "crash blocks" or both. In addition, I think there could be something done with the shape of the bunks. On some of my older boats, the bunks were actually cut to the shape of the hull. Look at yours! Mine are flat and straight. Is there a no contact area about 2' to 3' at the front of the bunks? I think if the bunks were radiused up to where there is full contact at the stop position, it would tend to lift the front as it is driven on. The flat bunks may be an economy move, since there are multiple hull configurations to deal with. That said, since the trailer is there to service the boat, not the other way around. I see it as the responsibility of CC to get it right, imho. (comments?)

I believe comments on this forum would be taken seriously by both CC and Ram-lin, based on my discussions with both. So at some point as we get more input, a link to this discussion should be forwarded to the mfgs.

[AbunDiga909]

I have to question what you say about the bunks not fitting the boat perfectly. I've seen many Eagles who've had that problem. Their bunks seem to be very wide and extend way to far to the front and don't curve up at all and then you have this extra peice of bunk extending in front of the boat which is really ugly. I think this problem doesn't exist on the Ram lin b/c they curve up more and don't extend too far.

The only negative thing I have to say about your ram lin is that it seems to be that the fenders are much closer to the boat than other trailers. And because of this, the boat once was not on straight when the ramp wasn't even and the boat ended up resting on the fender! So if they could figure out a way to keep the boat centered and not risk this problem happening again, that would be ideal...

[SprintCar39]

Interesting....I have been working for the last three months on designing and building the perfect (or as close as you can get) trailer. I have heard what people like and dont like. I have even asked several trailer manufactures to make some changes to the trailers we have been buying. Yeah good luck. Let me start by saying that I have owned a structural steel fabrication business since 1987 and we also have built many trailers for the utility industry over the years. Well now since I can't get the kind of trailers that I want we decided it is time to start manufacturing them in house. We are only going to make them for the inboard boats. We would welcome any and all ideas that everyone has to help us make our prototype. I will share pics as we go along. So far we are looking at using oil bath hubs, torflex axles, powdercoat finish, fiberglass fenders, longer steps and an option for either a boat buddy w/winch or a front loader and winch. So please either email me at eric@midohionautiques.com or you can call me at 419-929-9119. :idea:

[Onthewater]

eric, you are the breath of fresh air lots of people have been waiting for. can't wait to see the progress.

[lcap]

Dr John

1. Winch was too small, broke first time out
2. No keel pad to stop the boat from walking on the trailer
3. Boat walks up the trailer on dry bunks to the bow stop causing gel coat damage
4. Since I will not trailer with the cover, I have to put the boat back in the water when I get home to get it off the crash pads so I can put the cover on.
5. Alignment guides are too close to the boat 1/2" clearance IF you can get boat in the bunks.
6. Boat ALWAYS loads hard up to the guides--bent guide, wasted protector. This requires moving the boat over manually at the launch area. Not only difficult to do but embarassing!
7. Trailer looks like 10 years old. Paint has flaked off from the tongue to and over the fenders--No not a result of rock chips just a bad paint job.
8. Bow rubs up and down on the bow stops which has removed carpet and is messing up the rub rail.

I could go on