1998 Super Sport Ballast Install

[DavidF]

Good point. Thre rear of the divider will probably be pressed against the muffler which does not get hot. I am surprised that your boat does not have another divider stacked on top of the lower. My 99 does. On mine, there are two aluminum plates bolted to each side of the lower panel (front and rear). The upper panel slides down into the plates and is thus held in place. Those dividers are a royal paint to remove, but necessary to be able to work on the engine.

For fat sacks, I suppose you could build a box for the sac to keep the sides from butting pressure against the divider. However, it seems many just put in sacks without problems. I have the factory hard tanks, so do not have the problem...except the hard tanks only yeild about 240 lbs each. (I think).

[WakeSlayer]

I have the 750's in the back. When they are really full, they do push the dividers against the riser, but it would take a while to even damage the carpet on them due to touching the exhaust. 400# bags are not going to put enough pressure on them to do anything. I have the second piece that stacks on top also. Surprised they are not on there also.
David F, you can annex 400# bags to your hard tanks via the vent lines. Fly High makes a really cool add-on system for the 08 210s that does exactly that.

[jjgag60]

installing 400 LBS on top of the hard tanks

Is there a problem with adding 400 lbs on top of the stock hard tanks on a 210. I wouldn't want the weight to crack/break the hard tanks.

[WakeSlayer]

RE: installing 400 LBS on top of the hard tanks

I really doubt you are at risk. I cannot really remember how mine was, but doesn't it have some sort of subfloor over the tanks anyway?

[Batman]

I made new dividers for my 98 out of some treated wood, which I cut to fit. Then after proper fitting, I bought some truck liner and coated the board. When all was dry I covered with outdoor carpet I bought at Lowes. I also bought a (4) metal aluminum braces to keep the boards straight that I placed on the inside of boards against the engine. Looked factory too me! My bags would make the dividers press against the exhaust risers when full too potential.

[bchesley]

Updated!!!

I finally got around to mounting the pumps and running all the hose for the bags. All that is left to do is to wire in the switches. I am still unsure how and where I want to put them. I want them easily accessible for the driver but as close to the pumps as possible to cut down on current loss and wire expense.

The panel that I mounted the pumps to is 8" tall by 28" wide. It is 1/4" aluminum mounted to 3/16" by 1" angle. I used all 1/4" stainless steel screws and washers.

I ended up using the wire reinforced hose that the new boats come with. After pricing the white reinforced hose I found the factory was just a few cents more per foot. I also thought that someone at correct craft felt it was necessary I should use it. I also have always taken the stance that any add on or accessory should be of the same quality and craftsmanship that CC would have done.

I cant wait till spring now. I am hoping to at least test fill and empty once this winter to see how fast it works. I am going to order my wire next week so maybe I will get the switches wired soon.

[WakeSlayer]

RE: Updated!!!

Sweet, dude. Nice mounting job. May make access a little tougher to some some spots down there, but looks great.
I would just run the wire up front to the drivers seat. You don't lose enough current to concern yourself with, and the bulk of your cost is already installed. I mounted a little plate below my throttle. It is an ok spot, but could probably have done better. If you do not have the original ballast system gauges, you should have a spot there. Z put his there; they are accessible, and look really good.

[bchesley]

RE: Updated!!!

Thanks I am super excited about it. I plan on using tinned marine 10 Guage wire as I have read on many sites that it is really needed to get the pumps spinning to their potential. The cheapest I have found is on Ebay for 21.95 for 50 ft. I actually need about 36 feet per color, red, black, orange, and yellow. I was going to build a harness with weather tight plugs like a factory install so if I need to service them it will be easy to take one out. It is overkill I know but I love doing cheezy stuff like that.

[GoBig]

RE: Updated!!!

Impressive install! Looking forward to hearing how it works. Looks great and thanks for posting.

[Batman]

RE: Updated!!!

I made a wiring harness to go from beside throttle to the rear with one ground, since all grounds were tied together and a hot for each pump, then put toggle switches at open spot where the driver sits. worked great.

[Batman]

switches

[bchesley]

I am contemplating putting them there but I have the big Contura LED switches and they will only fit if I take my USCG plate out because I have a heater switch plate already there. I need to find out it the USCG plate can be moved to another location as long as it is hard mounted. I have not searched yet so that is next on the list.

[wake_fun]

My plate sits in the side mounted pouch by my feet Yellow_Flash_Colorz:

[Sinkoumn]

Here's how I did mine, and kept the plate - there are four (3-position) switches (port/starb/belly/bow) and they all fit fine. They are switches that you can get from any Malibu dealer (I actually bought the 4th one (for the bow sac) online and had them ship it to me - super easy).

You can free up a lot of space by relocating the emergency kill switch by simply just mounting it on the inside of the gunnel - that way the lanyard can still be connected to the driver if need be.

This picture is old, but I added the fourth switch right above the white label. The lift hatch switch is still in the upper right corner of the plate.

[gride300]

i like the left, center , right for non agua lingo speaking folks who might be at the helm.