Pylon bracket pictures wanted for 2000+ NSS or SAN

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  • DavidF
    Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
    • Sep 2004
    • 611

    • Austin, TX


    #1

    Pylon bracket pictures wanted for 2000+ NSS or SAN

    I want to relocate the pylon from the factory location in the middle of the floor to the cross member behind the rear seat and ahead of the engine compartment on my 1999 Super Sport. I hear factory pieces get pricey and from the limited pictures I have seen, fabricating a bracket does not look too bad. I just need more complet pictures that show the attachment points and what pieces are welded and/or bolted.

    So any help woudl be appreciated. I do not konw anyone else that has a Super Sport or Air in my area.
  • DavidF
    Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
    • Sep 2004
    • 611

    • Austin, TX


    #2
    Never mind. Right after I posted, I thought I should just go to the dealer and ask questions and look at boats in the service lot. They had a '03 that I looked at. The bracket assembly was all welded except for the angled braces.

    I also had the parts departmetn research the necesary pieces and low and behold CC makes a kit for '00 thru '05 boats. The kits includes everything (nuts, bolts, bracet, braces, lables, pylon, escutcheon, screws, clamps, everything). The kit cost $850.00.

    Now, my main problem is that the engine cradle in my '99 boat is missing the mounting tabs that the pylon bracket bolts to. Main reason is that the pylon located behind the rear seat was only introduced beginning in 2000. So, 2000 thru 2005 boats have the tabs on the engine cradle regardless if the pylon was fitted from the factory or not. Apparantly, the pylon is a factory option. I bet almost all boats were ordered with the pylon in place.
    Attached Files

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    • jonfo
      Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
      • Jul 2003
      • 385

      • Bellevue, WA

      • 1990 SN 2016 G23

      #3
      I pulled the pylon out of my 95 SS and put a steel desk plug in the hole. It took me a while to find a good fitting plug. I never had a need for a pylon after that, but i suppose if you use it for skiing you need one. For tubing i used the tower.
      -Jon
      16 G23
      07 220 TE
      05 211 TE
      95 SS (210)
      89 SN

      Comment

      • Miljack
        1,000 Post Club Member
        • Dec 2004
        • 1616

        • Charlotte, NC

        • '08 230 TE ZR6

        #4
        How big are the tabs that are welded to the engine cradle? Could you get a couple of bolts into the engine cradle? If not, welding it means you will need to get the cradle out from under the engine, and out of the boat. This is probably where it's going to depend on how handy you are, and how much time you're willing to dedicate to this project. You'll have to pull the engine out of the boat, or you could use a lift to take the weight off the mounts, then see if you could sneak the engine cradle out from under it.
        This sounds EXACTLY like something I would try! 8-)
        2008 230 TE-ZR6
        1999 Pro Air Python-sold and moved away :-(

        Comment

        • DavidF
          Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
          • Sep 2004
          • 611

          • Austin, TX


          #5
          I have a different plan other than welding tabs to the engine cradle. My thought is to use a lenght of 3x3 aluminum angle and bolt this angle to the top of the cradle/stringers utilizing the existing bolts both on top and the sides. The tabs required for the pylon assembly woudl be welded to this angle before installing. The angle woud be notched around the engine mount tab. Just a thought.

          My next issue is that I do not know how or have the equipment to weld aluminum. I did find an alternative to welding...brazing using HTS-2000 brazing rods. www.aluminumrepair.com

          Comment

          • 8122pbrainard
            • Jul 2007
            • 255

            • Unknown


            #6
            Originally posted by DavidF

            My next issue is that I do not know how or have the equipment to weld aluminum. I did find an alternative to welding...brazing using HTS-2000 brazing rods. www.aluminumrepair.com
            David,
            Get someone to weld it for you or take it to a welding shop. Considering the soundness you want on the pylon install, I wouldn't trust the brazing rods/ Aluminum isn't frendly to join because of the oxide it forms. Get it TIG'd.

            Comment

            • DavidF
              Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
              • Sep 2004
              • 611

              • Austin, TX


              #7
              Yep, I hear you. Another solution would be to braze the tabs on the base angle and then also add countersunk flat head machine screws/bolts. This way if the brazing does let go, there is still a mechanical connection that will prevent catastropic failure until periodic inspection indicated the brazing had failed.

              But really, the HTS-2000 looks amazing. I am going to purchase some of that stuff and do my own real world testing on 3/8" thick aluminum.

              Comment

              • DavidF
                Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
                • Sep 2004
                • 611

                • Austin, TX


                #8
                Oh man, I just had a better idea. use the 3x3x3/8" angle with the vertical leg turned up. The horizontal would be bolted to the top of the factory engine cradle/stringer. the upright leg is the tab needed to bolt the pylon bracket in place. I can then use flat aluminum stock to reinforce the upright leg of the angle to the side of the engine cradle/stringers at the bolt locations (flat bar stock bolted to upright angle leg and side of stringer). Now, no welding necessary. Getting easier.

                Comment

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