Well I did it.

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  • Rlbol
    • Oct 2008
    • 39

    • Palm Beach


    #1

    Well I did it.

    So I went and looked at a couple boat this weekend. A 98 MC prostar 205 and a 99 Xstar. The prostar was an ugly color and just didn't do it for me. The X star was cool but expensive. The last one was a 92 SN . It needs a fair amount of work. Hasn't been run in over a year. The hull has blisters, Prop has a few dings. Motor could use a tune up but is strong. I think it needs a new shaft bushing. The interior has some rotten wood but the fabric or vinyl is in great shape . Bright color no fading. The floor and stringers are as solid as can be. The family that had it are in a real bad financial shape. (Builder) So I am sure I paid more for it then I should have, but I still think it is a great boat and project. And luckily I am able to afford a project in the current times. I also think I helped them out.

    So enough of that I have lost and lots of questions. I am not sure where the better place to post this? So I posted in the both Old school as Maintenance & Technical. So First of is this an old school boat??

    Questions:
    1) I am not sure which motor this is, the engine block label reads-PLP-PR-R12PT. I am trying to find the engine manual. There are a lot listed on this website but which one is the correct one?

    2) The boat has not been run in a while. The owner never did much other then change the oil. What should I do? I was going to change the oil, trans fluid, Belts, and what else??

    3) There is no fresh water flushing system on the boat. We will ski in brackish water at times so I would like an easy way to flush everything. Is there a better way other then hocking up the hose to an adapter then to the intake on the bottom of the boat?

    4) There is no filter between the through hull raw water pick up and the pump? I thought there should be a screen type filter? Any one know which one to buy?

    5) Should I change out the impeller? If so any one have any info on changing them and which one i need to buy?

    Any thing I am missing please tell, I also appreciate this wonderful site with all its info!
    Thanks
  • Rlbol
    • Oct 2008
    • 39

    • Palm Beach


    #2
    Here is a picture of her.
    Also any one what kind of trailer this is? I cant find any labels or tag on it? It has brakes but I need to find a manual on them.

    Comment

    • Rlbol
      • Oct 2008
      • 39

      • Palm Beach


      #3
      picture
      Attached Files

      Comment

      • AuMDLST
        Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
        • Apr 2007
        • 870

        • Orlando, FL (Butler Chain)


        #4
        Trailer should have some sort of label attached as to manufacturer. Was this boat purchased in Fl? Did you get it from the original owner? If so you most likely have a Ramlin trailer.
        2006 SANTE 210 (Pending Sale)
        2005 206 TE (Previous)
        1994 SNOB (First Nautique/Boat)

        Comment

        • Rlbol
          • Oct 2008
          • 39

          • Palm Beach


          #5
          Yes purchased in FL and the original owner was in land o lakes FL ?

          Comment

          • 8122pbrainard
            • Jul 2007
            • 255

            • Unknown


            #6
            RE: Well I did it!

            rlbol.
            Congratulations! Will this be your first boat? If so, welcome to the boating world!

            1) I'm sure someone like Tim (TRBenj) will ID the engine with the model #.

            2) A fluid change and belts isn't a bad idea. Start off fresh.

            3) The Perko Flush-Pros are great for what you want to do. They can be installed with the addition of extra hose to a through hull hose fitting in the transom so all it takes is hooking up the garden hose at the transom. Real easy and convenient.

            4) Sea strainers are nice if you plan on boating in any questionable waters with weeds/debris. None of my boats have them and I've never had a problem but I do boat in clean waters.

            5) The RWP impeller may be fine. You may want to see how it runs first but if you do want to change it, call up Skidim with the engine # and they will get you the correct impeller. Some Napa auto stores carry them too. (and your belts) Changing them is easy. The pump casing is opened up, the old impeller is pulled and the new one slid in. The pump shaft has a key - there aren't any set screws and no pullers are needed.

            Comment

            • swooddc
              • Oct 2006
              • 147

              • Gardendale, AL


              #7
              can't quite see it, but might be a correct craft trailer.

              Comment

              • Rlbol
                • Oct 2008
                • 39

                • Palm Beach


                #8
                RE: Well I did it!

                Thanks for the reply. It is my first ski boat. I am curious about the engine so i can find the correct manual.
                The engine cover says "pro boss" Is the the same as the GT 40?

                Comment

                • Hollywood
                  1,000 Post Club Member
                  • Sep 2003
                  • 1930

                  • WIIL


                  #9
                  RE: Well I did it!

                  No, it is not a GT-40. They didn't come out until 95.

                  CC sold the tooling to Ramlin years after that boat was made. It could be a factory CC trailer but the picture is too small to tell.

                  Comment

                  • swooddc
                    • Oct 2006
                    • 147

                    • Gardendale, AL


                    #10
                    RE: Well I did it!

                    Gt 40 replaced the pro boss. it is a ford 351 windsor, same block as GT 40 maybe the same heads. main difference is the fuel injection on the GT 40. someone else will probably know more on the heads. I can't remember if that one was carb or throttle body, great motor either way. that was the top motor then. those rims look exactly like the rims on my 91 model CC trailer. I love those early 90's ski's.

                    Comment

                    • Rlbol
                      • Oct 2008
                      • 39

                      • Palm Beach


                      #11
                      RE: Well I did it!

                      Any one know of a manual for the trailer? I am looking more for info on the brakes then anything?
                      Also which engine manual would be for this engine?

                      Comment

                      • jeepn
                        • Jul 2003
                        • 164

                        • DFW, Texas

                        • 1992 Ski Nautique - since 2001

                        #12
                        RE: Well I did it!

                        as far as 4 goes. there is a filter on my 92, it's after the transmission cooler. water comes through the hull, through impeller, through water pump, through trans cooler, then the strainer, then into the engine.
                        Scott
                        92 Ski Nautique

                        Comment

                        • 8122pbrainard
                          • Jul 2007
                          • 255

                          • Unknown


                          #13
                          RE: Well I did it!

                          rlbol,
                          Back to your #4 question - If you do decide to install a strainer, It goes in immediately after the through hull in the bottom of the boat. You don't want any debris getting into the oil cooler, RWP,T stat, etc. Many overheating problems are caused by plugged up oil coolers! It still comes down to the water you boat in!

                          Comment

                          • swooddc
                            • Oct 2006
                            • 147

                            • Gardendale, AL


                            #14
                            RE: Well I did it!

                            on my 91 cc trailer the brake parts are all atwood. I ordered replacement parts online, the parts are pretty standard. they sell coupler, as well as the wheel units as one piece or you can get the cylinders seperate. rebuilding the system is pretty straight forward. i think the place i ordered from was trailer parts superstore, or something like that. google atwood surge brakes.
                            the coupler unit should be the 6000# unit for drum brakes about $160. the wheel assemblies are around $50 apiece.

                            Comment

                            • Rlbol
                              • Oct 2008
                              • 39

                              • Palm Beach


                              #15
                              RE: Well I did it!

                              Thanks for the replies
                              So regarding #4 I ordered a bunch of parts yesterday. New implerer ,belts,etc.. but also a strainer as well as flushing kit. I am also going o replace the hose through out the system. It appears as the old hoses is getting pretty brittle and creaking. My current system goes from the through hull to the oil cooler, then to the fresh water pump. In what order and which location should I install the strainer as well as the flushing kit? If any one has any pictures of there set up it would be appreciated. I would also like to see some pictures of the oil cooler mounting as well. Mine doesn't seem right. The hose goes from the through hull straight up to the top of the engine vertically then makes a 180 Degree bend. That is where the hose is cracking. Then goes in to the oil cooler. then out and down in below the engine and up to the RWP. That doesn't seem to be the best layout with all the kinks in the hoses. It also doesn't appear to be the factory lay out. so if any one has some pictures it would be great!!

                              As far as the trailer goes, it is in great shape but the brakes have some problems. About have way home they locked up. I ended up have to remove the brake line coming out of the master cylinder. even after that there seams to be a lot of drag. I am wondering if the bearings are bad as well. Is there a way to just lock out the brakes? On mine there is a back up lever which I assume you have to activate every time you have to back up?
                              Thanks for a the help again!

                              Comment

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