Thread size of EZ Drain oil tube cap

[lion90]

Guys,

Does anyone know what the thread size is of the end of the EZ Drain oil tube that is on the ZR6 engine?

I don't have a trailer so it is a bit difficult to get under the boat to drain the oil however the following link has a post on wake world where a guy hooks a vacuum pump up to the drain tube and sucks it out that way. I know you can drain it through the dipstick but that usually doesn't get all of it out unless you are very good at getting the tube down to the bottom of the lowest point on the oil pan. This method sucks it out of the drain tube which will ensure that it all comes out and you don't need to get under the boat.

I am looking at what size reducer I need to get (see link below). The garden hose to pipe thread adapters are 3/4" pipe threads so I just need to figure out what size the reducer needs to be: 3/4" pipe thread to WHAT?

I can do some trial and error but figured I would ask if anyone knows off the top of their heads.

Link: http://www.wakeworld.com/MB/Discus/m...tml?1077646658

[AirTool]

RE: Thread size of EZ Drain oil tube cap

I know you don't need a guess...but I'll get you on the right track and can confirm later this week. (06 206 5.7L)

But I'm going to guess it is a 1/4" or 3/8" SAE Flare. I don't think it is 1/2". The hose side is male thread. You'll need an adapter to get to you to pipe thread...if you want to attach another fitting. I'm 90% sure it is SAE flare (45°) but it could be JIC flare (3x°).

I'd skip the water hose connectors...I think the simplest and safest method would be to buy however much copper tubing you need and put a flare nut on the boat end. It should screw right on the hose's fitting

You can also convert the flare it to a barbed fitting with an adapter and use clear soft poly tubing. This would allow you to make the connection in the boat above the oil level, then feed however many feet of hose you need through the drain plug over to the work area/vacuum pump.

I'm assuming the boat is on a lift and you can go out the bottom....if not, same stuff applies you'll just have to suck it the drain with a pump.

Questions?

With the latter idea, the oil won't start to drain out as soon as you take the cap off.

[lion90]

Thanks for the info.

I believe after some searching, I have answered my own question. I looked up the parts to the PCM 6.0L engine in their online manual ( http://www.pcmengines.com/pdfs/manua...L510014-06.pdf ) and found the part number to the cap and EZ Drain tube. The part number to the cap is: R024066A and the part number to the fitting in the tube is: R024061.

I then searched those part numbers and found this link to the 2009 Pleasurecraft Marine 2009 Price List.
http://www.marinegate.com/L190025-09.xls

In line 522 of the spreadsheet, you find the cap part and it's description is: CAP, 1/4 PIPE w/SLOT. On line 515 you will find the fitting descriptions: CONNECTOR, HOSE 1/4NPT x 3/8. The oil tubing is definitely 3/8" tubing so it appears that I need a 3/4" pipe thread to 1/4" pipe thread reducer and then a 3/4 pipe thread to garden hose thread adapter.

I have also verified those part descriptions in a couple other links.

[230konrad]

It is most certainly a 1/4" thread. Last weekend I did an "on the lift, tru the top" oil change on my ZR6. I bought a 1/4" threaded female to 1/4" nipple from Lowes. I could not find the exact size online, but it is the 1/4" version of this:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...PK1&lpage=none

To this I attached the end of the Liquivac (bought from the same Lowes)
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...000&lpage=none

and off you go. This was the easiest oil change I had done in a while. I am thinking of installing a permanent valve at the end of the drain tube to make it even easier, but that will have to wait until the winter.
Let me know if you have any questions!

[lion90]

That approach looks fantasic. The pump is cheaper than the one I was looking at and no need for all those adapters... just the one fitting at the end of the hose.

I assume you just hooked it up, gave it several pumps and waited while it pumped all the oil out? Can you see how much oil came out in that pump or is none of the resevoir see through?

Thanks for the confirmation and the links!

[AirTool]

The PCM price sheet is an awesome reference. Thanks for posting it.

I would have sworn those fittings were flare....but now I'm thinking that might be my lawnmower and power washer. I screwed in a pipe x flare nut elbow to drain the oil out more easily and avoid repeated tightening of the plug to aluminum block.

Ditto agaoin on skipping the water hose arrangment.

[230konrad]

"I assume you just hooked it up, gave it several pumps and waited while it pumped all the oil out? Can you see how much oil came out in that pump or is none of the resevoir see through?"

You are correct, make sure the engine is warm, hook up, pump and watch the oil flow. Not only is the hose mostly transparent, but the quickvac has a "window" near the container where you can confirm the flow.

A couple of additional tips:
1. Make sure that you elevate the drain tube when disconnecting the cap to prevent spillage.
2. Get a 3/8"-1/2" ss hose clamp to attach the end of the quickvac hose onto the 1/4" nipple, otherwise you will not have an air tight seal at that point.

Good luck!

[lion90]

Have you used the Liquivac more than a couple times? I have read some reviews on Amazon that talk about the seals breaking down after a couple uses. The Moeller (http://www.amazon.com/Moeller-Extrac.../dp/B000MTB83M) seems to get better reviews but is only 4 liters and comes with 3 hoses (one with the garden hose on it) or others that I assume are 3/8" as well that I could put the barb to FPT adapter in.

My local Lowe's doesn't stock the bigger Liquivac so I may have to try the tractor supply place near my house that states they carry it. The Lowe's in my area also didn't have a 3/8" barb to 1/4" FPT that I needed. (I did try the 3/8" barb to something else in the small engine Luquivac that my Lowe's carries and it fit perfectly into the tubing). I found it on Ebay of all places for 4 bucks shipped. Now I just need to get the Liquivac or Moeller and give it a go.

[lion90]

Just wanted to follow up.

I pretty much followed 230konrad and AirTool's suggestions for my first 25 hour oil change in my 2009 SAN 230 TE and this worked like a charm. I had ~5 quarts of oil extracted from the engine in about 5 minutes with little to no mess.

I bought the Large Engine Liquivac from my local Tractor Supply for $39.99 - $5 coupon for registering on their site. I also bought a 1/4 inch barb to 1/4 inch female pipe thread adapter to connect the Liquivac hose to the EZ Drain tube on the engine.

This is by far the best way to drain the oil as it practically all comes out since you are sucking it out through the bottom of the oil pan vs. through a dipstick.

Thanks for the advice, guys!

[Mikeski]

Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks???

I have changed various boat oil hundreds of times. This week I did my buddies ski boat, my neighbors x-star, and today it was time to do my boat. I had tried the through the dipstick approach with poor results, had just about tossed the oil sucker in the trash a few times in earlier years but it was still buried in the corner of my shed. So I pulled it out ran down to the local OSH and picked up the 1/4" pipe to barb tube adapter so I could give the sucker a try on the end of the drain line. Warmed up the boat, hooked up the sucker, gave it a couple dozen pumps and much to my surprise the oil came flying out. I also did something different with the filter. After loosening the filter I put a 10 gallon wastebasket liner completely over the filter until the excess was bunched up around the top. As I spun the filter it wrapped around the top loosely and kept all the oil in the bag. I put the bag and all into a paint mixing pail that just fit over the filter then removed the pail, bag, and filter from the bilge without a single drop of oil hitting the bilge. Spun the new filter on, added the oil, fired the motor to fill the filter, topped it off, done.

This was the quickest, cleanest, easiest, oil change I had done in 10 years!

[lion90]

Glad this was helpful to someone other than myself. I too am an old dog and couldn't believe how easy this was to do with this method. My boat stays on a lift so it is much easier than finding a way to get under the boat with a pan to catch the oil.

[230konrad]

Glad this worked out for y'all!

[TRO]

I ended up going to Lowe's tonight to see if my local store carried the large engine liquivac. of course not. had to order one online. guess i'm not changing my oil this weekend.

[230konrad]

Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks???

I have changed various boat oil hundreds of times. This week I did my buddies ski boat, my neighbors x-star, and today it was time to do my boat. I had tried the through the dipstick approach with poor results, had just about tossed the oil sucker in the trash a few times in earlier years but it was still buried in the corner of my shed. So I pulled it out ran down to the local OSH and picked up the 1/4" pipe to barb tube adapter so I could give the sucker a try on the end of the drain line. Warmed up the boat, hooked up the sucker, gave it a couple dozen pumps and much to my surprise the oil came flying out. I also did something different with the filter. After loosening the filter I put a 10 gallon wastebasket liner completely over the filter until the excess was bunched up around the top. As I spun the filter it wrapped around the top loosely and kept all the oil in the bag. I put the bag and all into a paint mixing pail that just fit over the filter then removed the pail, bag, and filter from the bilge without a single drop of oil hitting the bilge. Spun the new filter on, added the oil, fired the motor to fill the filter, topped it off, done.

This was the quickest, cleanest, easiest, oil change I had done in 10 years!

Glad to help!