Piggy-back ballast

[Shooter]

I want to plumb Fly High wedge sacs to the stock ballast overflow in my ski lockers. I know there is a lot of information about this, but I still have a few questions befoe I pull the pin.

I'm planning my install based on Core-Riders thread with the "quick connect" modification that Gride300 did (See first link). Will I need to put PVC pipe in the Fly High sacs to keep them from collapsing when draining? I would think that if the bags collapse, it will block the vent causing air-lock when attempting to drain the hard tanks. Is this not an issue with these bags?

I noticed these bags have 3 fill stems, does it matter which lines go to which stems?

http://www.lakeeffectsupply.com/Wake..._sacs_W708.jpg

[jonfo]

RE: Piggy-back ballast

On my 07 220 I run from the factory tank overflow into the bottom hole of the bag, then from the top hole right above it i run the vent out. I dont use the front hole at all, and that is what you would need the PVC for. This way when the factory tank empties and creates a vacuum which pulls either water or air from the sac on top of it to keep it from collapsing. Since my pumps on my 220 have timers on them that stay on for about one tank emptying, I always wait a few minutes between when they stop and i turn them back on, just to give some time for some air or water to catch up getting into the hard tanks from the sacs. I used to just keep turning them on to drain but i collapsed both hard tanks that way at some point which caused the guages to stop working when the pickups bent. I got new pickups for the tanks and have been real careful since then when emptying and havent had any problems. I use the exact same system for the floor tank, just a different Fly High ProX sac.

[noti_dad]

I have the same setup. The second link goes to my setup. My pumps are not on timers they shutoff when the gauge reads empty so there is no issue with collapsing the hard tanks unless I do not open the valves when I empty (which I've done once or twice). Definitely use the PVC. I know a few others using this method. No issues.

[rivercowboy]

What I did was place a hose from the top plug on the back to the top plug on the front of the bag. All the fill and drain hoses go from the bottom plugs. This stops the bag from sucking closed. I have 3 sacs and the factory on my belly pump and it takes 9 minutes to drain and fill them all. A custom sack on top of the gas tank, an arrow in the locker and a intergrated under seat bow sac. I love it SANTE220

[jonfo]

I wasnt aware the pumps and gauges were connected on any year nautique. If your pumps shut off when the guages read empty, does this prevent you from turning the pumps back on if the guages read empty, but the bags still have water in them? I am wondering how the dependency between the pumps and the guages works...

[rivercowboy]

The pumps and gauges are independent of each other. The newer pumps are on a timer, so they start and stop after a certain amount of time. The gauge serves its purpose, just tells how much water is in there, they are seperate systems.

When I have a bad impeller in a pump, we just unhook the hose going to the tank we want to fill and switch it to a different pump and it all still works the same. Gauges read whats in the tank, no matter what pump is hooked up to it.

[rivercowboy]

A hint for filling the piggy backed system. you dont have to wait for the time on the pump to run out, you can just push the button off and back on again and the timer starts over again. Speeds up the show!

[jasonwm]

What year is your boat? Depending on when it was made, the ballast system can be quite different. In order to figure out what is the "best" way to install bags that are Piggybacked off the factory system you need to know what type of pumps are used.

Later boats (built after 2004) use Jabsco reversible pumps that make it easier to Piggyback bags (most of the threads you linked to are for that type of pump).

Earlier model year boats used aerator pumps which complicate the install process for Piggybacking. It can still be done, but special considerations need to be made.

[54T]

What year is your boat? Depending on when it was made, the ballast system can be quite different. In order to figure out what is the "best" way to install bags that are Piggybacked off the factory system you need to know what type of pumps are used.

Later boats (built after 2004) use Jabsco reversible pumps that make it easier to Piggyback bags (most of the threads you linked to are for that type of pump).

Earlier model year boats used aerator pumps which complicate the install process for Piggybacking. It can still be done, but special considerations need to be made.

Mine is an 06 210 team - what would you recommend.p

[Shooter]

Didn’t Nautique go to the Jabsco in 06? I thought about switching my aerators out, but the impeller style pumps are expensive, slower and not as reliable. After reading up on this subject I decided to stick with my stock aerator pumps.

[jonfo]

A few nice things about aerator type pumps is that 1) they can run dry with no damage, 2) they are cheap to replace, 3) they draw less power. The negative is that 1) you need shut off valves, 2) they are non self priming so can get air locked, 3) the pre 06 aerator system uses 5/8" ID hose Vs the 1" ID hose from 06 on for the Jabsco system. I know the pumps are rated for 750gph with aerator but I dont think that much flows with 5/8 ID hose. 5/8 ID to 1" ID is double the volume if you calculate the area. From personal experience the tanks fill faster on my 07 220 than they did on my 05 211. I liked the system on my 211 though, so i wouldnt bother switching it out.

[wcherashore]

automated ballast system

I have been in contact with wakemakers to install an automated ballast system in my family's 2000 air nautique. The system will include a bag in the central ski locker and wakemakers has suggested that a thru-hill fitting be used to allow me the option to add a second bag to the system at a later date (which I am considering).

What are your thoughts on thru-hull fittings in general and do I need to make such a modification to the boat to accomodate an automated system?

[Shooter]

RE: automated ballast system

Wakemakers should know best, but I would say do it. Where is the second bag going to be located and why are you not planning three (center, rear left and right lockers)? I assume you dont have factory ballast already installed or is there an existing thru-hull for your current ballast system. If you dont have somesort of existing thru-hull then your only other option would be to throw a pump overboard (pain in the a$$) during fill and empty. I have never done a thru-hull, but it sound very easy. You will just need to pick the correct size and type of thru-hull fitting depanding on your planned system (what kind of pumps & how big are the bags)

[WakeSlayer]

RE: automated ballast system

He has a direct drive Air Nautique. So no left and right lockers.
I put mine under my deck facing out the back of the transom and have threaded livewell screens to keep debris out. Some argue that you cannot fill under power, but I think it is better to be able to drain under power to level out the wake if you see fit.
Lotsa ways to do it. Do a couple searches on thru hulls, and you will see some good fittings.

[Shooter]

RE: automated ballast system

I finished my install and plan on testing it this weekend. I'm sure it will fill, but I dont know how well it will empty. Will this work with the stock Aerator pumps?