04 SAN Team Ballast Wedges replace with 05 SAN Rear ballast?

[jwhposon]

I have a 200 4 SAN that has the stock ballast system -- the two rear lockers have the hard shell wedge tanks (unsure of the water volume). I just noticed that in the 2005 version the rear ballast tanks in the lockers are not wedge shape but they are more rectangular. Does anyone know if they are the same volume AND if the 2005 will if in the 2004 without modification? Do I lose anything by doing this? It appears as though I would gain some normality in storage -- where as the wedge sort of makes things difficult to fit in that space. All comments welcome.

J

[AuMDLST]

RE: 04 SAN Team Ballast Wedges replace with 05 SAN Rear ball

Interesting as to what you saw in the 2005

the same tanks you have should be in the 2005 and they are in the 2006's as well

[swancer]

RE: 04 SAN Team Ballast Wedges replace with 05 SAN Rear ball

My 05 SANTE has a hard shell wedge tank in each rear locker. Mine may well have been an early 05 production run and they could have changed the tank configuration mid year or something, not sure.

[jward]

RE: 04 SAN Team Ballast Wedges replace with 05 SAN Rear ball

There are 2 tank options. Wedge or flat. Pretty sure the flat tanks do not hold as much water. Not sure of the difference but it's not much.
Yes they will fit in yours, and should not be hard to find. I actually have 2 sitting in my storage. If you like storage space and want a large wake, just take it all out and put in flyhigh 750 sacs. You will be glad you did.

[WakeSlayer]

Re: RE: 04 SAN Team Ballast Wedges replace with 05 SAN Rear

If you like storage space and want a large wake, just take it all out and put in flyhigh 750 sacs. You will be glad you did.

Exactly.

[jwhposon]

jward - when you removed the old hard shells and went with the 750 tank did you have beef up the separation wall from the motor? That seems a little flimzy to hold back 750 gal. on turns and stuff -- but maybe not?

[jward]

No but that is a project of mine for the winter. If you notice there is a metal bracket in the middle of your lower panel that the upper one fits into. When the sacs push the panels it bows in and the only thing that touches is that bracket to the manifold. Not that big a deal, but I probably will do something. There was a thread on here a while back of someone that did a great job reinforcing there. It had pics of the project but I haven't searched it yet.
Do yourself a favor and change to sacs. You will need extra weight in the front, depending on how much you run in the sacs. If you fill them you will need several hundred lbs up front. The only other thing you will need to do is decide on how you want to pump water in and out of the sacs. I used the stock areator pumps, some people spend the money and get the reversable ballast puppies. Both work just fine, puppies I understand save a little time.

Here is what I did. Not saying it is the best way to set it up but it was cheap and works great. You will have some people tell you puppies are the only way to go, but this system has not been any trouble at all for me.
http://www.planetnautique.com/index....wtopic&t=16102

[WakeSlayer]

You really do not need to worry about the panels touching the risers. They do not get hot enough to really do any harm. Mine press again them all the time. It would be better if they didn't, but I really do not feel it is that much of a problem.

[jwhposon]

Gentlemen, thanks so much for your time and efforts in replying. Do you all just use other ballast in the bow or midsection to offset the added ballast in the back or do you replace your hardshell in the middle with a different sack?

Also -- can someone explain the puppies or a link to where they are -- I have heard of all the guys talk about this but I was too embarrassed to ask. But see now I can put it in black and white (ugh)....

I am interested in keeping the costs low - I wanted to replace the manual open/close valve with something but they were pretty expensive for three of them.

I am debating all of this as the local river "Willamette River" will not accept wake enhancement devices" next season - in a specific stretch of river-- so that leaves a very small portion open on the river for that type of enhancement riding. So, do I take this on as a project knowing I have to buy the bags for the back (anyone know how much) and consequently I will always have to add more to the front -- oh boy .

[jward]

Well its all up to how big you want the wake I guess. You can do what ever size sac you want in the back. You don't have to do the 750's. I just suggested this option because of storage you were wanting. The 750's completely fill the storage area when full. When empty you will have ton's off storage compared to when the tanks are in there. In my setup I left the hard tank in the center, 750's in the rear, and the integrated bow sac under the seats. By the way I also have an 04 like yours. I have no clue how much weight is up front because the sac cannot fill all the way up because of the seats being so low. I know some people that just throw a sac on top. You just need enough to keep the boat on plain. Also you don't have to fill the rear sacs all the way up. With this setup you can do pretty much what ever you like.

I bought my 750's used for $200
bought the bow sac used for $125
supplies to convert stock pumps was around $30

Puppies new will run you around $500 (I did see a guy on Wakeworld selling these slightly used for a couple hundred less)

[AllianceBJJ]

Is there any problem with the 750's interfering with the dual battery selector or the fuse/breaker in the rear compartments? Have thought about this mod for my 06 210....

[johnboyy7]

i too just replaced my wedge tanks with 750, well in the process of. im super pumped about the increased storage. fitting my wakeboard with the wedge tanks is a joke. if you are worried about doing it due to not being mechanically inclined or worried about reselling your boat not being "stock".... this is a very easy change out and if you dont like it, its an easy switch back. if you can use a screwdriver, nutdriver, wrench, and possibly a knive to cut the hoses, then you can do it. feel free to contact me or jward. i consulted him several times. in all honesty it took me about 1 hour to get the tanks out. also i didnt touch my center ballast at all.

price. used 750... 180
auto valves.... 90
hoses and connections..... 30
quick connects for bags.... 75

[jwhposon]

Do you guys have any pics where you have the water puppies located. Also J-WARD - you mentioned that you kept the stock pumps -- I will do the same. The conversion you speak of is simply hose fittings and diameters? Did you still keep the manual cable open/close valve? I heard that the water puppy pump can essentially replace these as well - although not confirmed. I have seen a great replacement but expensive -- I tried a sprinkler system valves since they are normally closed. Did you keep the overflow for the tanks going out the same exit points? I hear some folks are trying to drain out the bottom to be less conspicuous or something.

I appreciate the time guys -- I think I will move fwd with the sacs, stocks pumps, etc..

[jasonwm]

Team Edition boats had the Wedge tanks, everything else was flat.

In addition to the bag you'll need three connectors. Most people elect to use Quick Connect fittings so they can pull the bag out for cleaning, storage or winterization. Let me know if you need a parts list.

There's no reason to change the pumps that are in the boat for this modification, so just use what came from the factory and don't bother with the Ballast Puppies.

[jwhposon]

Jasonwm - a parts list would be very helpful. I am going to try and get this done before March/April and I work at a pretty slow pace for boat projects , especially as big as this one. Thanks for your help and effort.

Jason