"Dry" start?

[RexB]

Is it ever OK to start the boat in your driveway (no fake lake or hose) and let it run for a minute or so, keeping an eye on the engne/oil temp?

I ask because another poster mentioned running his boat to "burn off condensation," etc. Should this be done only if you have a cooling water feed, or does that defeat the purpose?

[behindpropellers]

Re: "Dry" start?

Is it ever OK to start the boat in your driveway (no fake lake or hose) and let it run for a minute or so, keeping an eye on the engne/oil temp?

I ask because another poster mentioned running his boat to "burn off condensation," etc. Should this be done only if you have a cooling water feed, or does that defeat the purpose?

I never start mine out of the water. It only takes a minute to heat the impeller up and then the rubber is no longer pliable.

Only run it with water.

If you don't want condensation on your motor, then open the doghouse a few inches and throw a block of wood under it.

Tim

[RexB]

RE: Re: "Dry" start?

Didn't think about the impeller. Good point.

[WakeSlayer]

RE: Re: "Dry" start?

+1 on don't run without water.

[jmo]

RE: Re: "Dry" start?

Running without a water supply until the engine warms up will shred your impeller into pieces and clog up the cooling system in all sorts of hard to get at places

[Mikeski]

RE: Re: "Dry" start?

Never more than 15 seconds unless you have a blue globe impeller. Even then I would not go longer than a minute or two. Definitely not long enough to warm the internals as I had posted in the winterization thread.

I am the minority here but I always start mine dry at the top of the launch ramp for 5 or so seconds. I have been doing this for years and never change my impellers more than once every other year, sometimes every third year, and I have several old impellers that look just like new.

[RexB]

RE: Re: "Dry" start?

Just curious. Why the 5 second dry start at the top of the ramp?

[jward]

RE: Re: "Dry" start?

I start mine in the drive before I trailer to the lake. Just to make sure I have no battery issue. I pretty much just fire it up and shut it right back down. Never had an issue. There is water in the system, and only a few turns of the impeller when I do this. Can't see how this could be bad at all. If I am wrong call me out on it.

[Nautiquehunter]

RE: Re: "Dry" start?

Starting the engine for a few seconds will not hurt anything. Keep in mind there is residual water in the raw water pump and upper hose. Starting an engine for a short time will not help with condensation if you dont run long enough to reach operating temp you are actually creating condensation and sludge in the engine. Your best bet is to winterize it and let it sit untill its tine to use it again.

[AirTool]

RE: Re: "Dry" start?

By the time the "condensation" is gone, your exhaust path is going to be mighty how w/o any water going through them.

I don't think the hoses and fiberglass pipe/muffler is going to like that very much.

[Nautiquehunter]

RE: Re: "Dry" start?

Also when you start a cold engine there is a lot more fuel going in the engine. With the choke on or temp sensor for fuel injected engines. Shutting it down before reaching operating temp will actually contaminate the oil with unburned fuel. Bottom line is if you are going to start it let it run for at least 20 minutes. This also applies to cars.

[8122pbrainard]

Re: RE: Re: "Dry" start?

Just curious. Why the 5 second dry start at the top of the ramp?

I'd have to say that he's got starting issues and doesn't trust the engine!!! Maybe a tune up is in order or a decent battery as well as checking the charging system. A check for a parasitic load wouldn't be a bad idea if it is a cranking issue.

2 or 3 years on a impeller? I've gone 28 but NEVER without a water supply or the boat in the water.

[INVNO1]

Re: RE: Re: "Dry" start?

Starting the engine for a few seconds will not hurt anything. Keep in mind there is residual water in the raw water pump and upper hose. Starting an engine for a short time will not help with condensation if you dont run long enough to reach operating temp you are actually creating condensation and sludge in the engine. Your best bet is to winterize it and let it sit untill its tine to use it again

Also when you start a cold engine there is a lot more fuel going in the engine. With the choke on or temp sensor for fuel injected engines. Shutting it down before reaching operating temp will actually contaminate the oil with unburned fuel. Bottom line is if you are going to start it let it run for at least 20 minutes. This also applies to cars..

Exactly

[DanielC]

RE: Re: RE: Re: "Dry" start?

I still strongly suggest you never start your engine without supplying water to the raw water pump.

I know there is some water in the strainer, and hoses, and V-drive on boats with those components, that will get to the raw water pump, and lubricate it for a little while, but then the next time you start the engine, those hoses are empty, and have to refill, and that is when the greater chance of raw water impeller damage occurs.
There is also a greater change of losing the prime on the raw water pump, starting it dry.

In the case you have slightly damaged your raw water impeller, you are not going to notice it until you have taken your boat off the trailer, idled out, and have ran it for a little while, and there is then a greater chance the impeller will fail away from the dock. Hopefully this happens where it is just inconvenient, and not a safety issue.

[sodbuster88]

RE: Re: RE: Re: "Dry" start?

DanielC writes:

I still strongly suggest you never start your engine without supplying water to the raw water pump.

Agreed. If you start out of the water, or without a water source, you are introducing an interruption in the circulation system a void of air/vacuum. Over time, where ever that void of air is located, those surfaces will dry out....and if it's in the raw water pump, the coefficient of friction between the rubber impeller and the housing becomes exponentially higher and especially with velocity. The faster the engine speed, the higher the coefficient, the higher the heat...the faster the damage.

Most of the time there's some moisture in that cavity which drastically reduces the coefficient...serves as a lubricant...and in this case the coefficient is almost independent of force, velocity, material, etc.... Bottom line, you better know what you are doing or you can fail the impeller and subsequently, fail your day!!!!!