Look forward to hearing your results with install... I would be concerned about falling into it, it appears to stick out pretty far...
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Originally posted by gride300 View Postnautique would have used one in it's history if they thought it would improve their boats' wake.
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malibu has evolved faster? you mean HAVING to use a wedge to produce a good wake because their engineering and R&D cant design a hull that does it on water displacement alone is more evolved. that statement just doesnt make sense to me. sorry for the off topic-ness. i just wanted to say that.
and the hydrogate does the opposite of the wedge. with the hydrogate not deployed. the wake is being created off the surface of the hull alone. with it deployed, the boat noses down to make a more mellow wake.
its not deploy the gate, drag the a** end under water, burn 14gph, and then you have a nice wake.
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Originally posted by green210 View PostWe were doing this for a better starboard surf because of the prop rotation. The switch blade is probably a lot cheaper than changing the prop rotation.
I would personally try perfecting the wake more before installing something like that, or just learn to ride port side. You will more than likely have to beef up the transome to allow for the loads that thing will likely put the boat under and wasn't designed to take. This will require removing the drivetrain I would guess. You're not just looking at $2000for the purchase of the switchblade, but a lot of money to have it properly installed unless you have the means to do all the work yourself. I predict this being upwards of $5000 or more for a proper installation. Like others have mentioned, you really need to check with CC about warrenty concerns before spending the first dime on this.
It's your boat, so do what you will, but I would personally look at other means of fixing your problem before going down this road.Jason
All black 2003 SANTE
-- Southern Fried --
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Correct Craft did invent the wakeboard tower, they hold the patent on the design.
The Tige TAPS system is just trim tabs on the back of the hull, the hull is made to sit low in the back end without the trim tabs in use, and the trim tab is pushed down into the water, to raise the stern of the boat when the tabs are down.
The Correct Craft hydrogate used the fact that behind the propeller is a high pressure area, and the lip in hull, at the aft end of the tunnel behind the propeller traps some of the water pressure and it pushes the aft end of the boat up. When the hydrogate is pulled up, out of the propwash, some of the pressure is released, and this allows the stern of the boat to drop, making a bigger wake. It is not a trim tab.
Green210, it is your boat. You can do to it what you want. This is a major hull modification, and if the switch blade causes your hull to fail, or it hits bottom, or some submerged log when you are under way, and causes major damage, will your boat insurance cover it? Like many others, I would not recommend it.
This is going to step on a few toes, but my personal belief that the boating industry supports wakeboarding so much is because you can pretty much sell a wakeboarder anything.
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Green,
Before you spend 2-5K might want to try weighting the boat different. I'll measure next weekend the size of the wake we have, about 4 feet tall. We surf both sides of the boat equally as well and we have gotten to the point we cross the wakes and surf both sides. Until recently and we figuring out the weighting we could only cross the wakes on the tiges we sometimes use.
Most of us surf the Port (right) with the LH prop rotation. No issues.
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The reason we are doing this is because of the huge change in the size of the wave. The starboard side is a lot smaller than the port side. We also are goofy footed and i can surf the port side but i prefer the starboard side a lot more. Do any of you know how much bigger the wakesurfing wake is on the 230 than the 210. That is also one of our options. We could sell our 210 and buy a 230 with the prop going the other way.
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I say do it and let use know how it is! Someone always has to be the first. Maybe you can get the manufacture to give you a discount if you do a nice write up of the result right here on PN.
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Might be a stupid question, but do they guarantee that it won't damage your boat? They must have heard this argument before...
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Here is the instillation manual for this product. A couple areas of concern.
1. The manual doesn't require any checking or additional reinforcement to the transom
2. There DOESn't seem to be a back plate for the products. Bolts and washers are it.
3. this is the most concerning. They want you to remove the blade for trailering so it does not put additional stress on the transom. Also guessing they don't want you to hit something with it.
4. I'm really not sure how it would help you in reverse. It doesn't pivot with the rudder.
5. Also in the picture on page 11 that Mastercraft has trim tabs. Are you going to be required to have tabs so the wake will look like the pictures? Might be a question to ask?
http://www.switchbladewake.com/docum...tallGuide2.pdf
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Senior Member of PLANETNAUTIQUE
- Feb 2010
- 921
- Phoenix AZ
- 2013 G23 550 hp (ordered and awaiting delivery) 2002 Super Sport (coverted into a SAN) 330 hp Excaliber 1994 Sun Tracker Party Barge 115 hp 1989 Horizon 200 Four Winns - sold 1989 Regal Commodore 280 - previous Possibly looking into picking up a 70'2-80's Nautique to rebuild as a ski boat
has anyone added a hydroplate to an older (2002) SAN
Has anyone added a hydroplate to a 2002 SAN? I dont know if this is the right place to ask but i have been wondering and figured that so many people have opinions bout the switchblade there may be someone who has done this first.Eric, Phoenix AZ
G23 550 hp (finally here)
2002 Super Air
1994 Sun Tracker Party Barge 115 hp
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If you mean the hydrogate, there is a thread on this exact question. The overall consensus was not to do it, it wasn't worth it.
http://www.planetnautique.com/vb3/sh...ight=hydrogate
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