1995 Super Sport Ballast install.

[wake_fun]

The check valve link is in my ballast #2 thread. Here it is again: http://www.boatersworld.com/product/359350147msk.htm It is the 1 1/2" version. Yeah, just put them up high. Some people don't like vents because it won't let their sacs get really huge, tight, overfill. Mine fill up full and plump enough. I also have two lead bars under each sac in the back. So two on each side and they weigh about 55 pounds each. So I have an additional 220lbs in the rear along with the two sacs

[wake_fun]

Wake, those stainless vents look WAY better than the white ones I have. Any idea on the part number? Are they all 5 indentical? bilge & vents? I never had to drill holes, I just used existing ones from my factory ballast.

Yes, they are MUCH better. I posted the part number a few posts back (where the picture of the boat is). I used 1" for my ballast and I believe it's 3/4" for the bilge. Go to West Marine's web site and put that part number in the search, it will list all of them for you......Stainless Steel.

[Bhenry27]

what's the best style drilling to use to drill theses holes (hole saw, drill bit, uni bit ect.)?

[wake_fun]

Tape entire area with masking tape. Hole saw, in REVERSE through the the gel coat. After you are through the gelcoat return back to normal and go through the glass............make sure you use the right size hole saw for each fitting!

[TRDon]

I have seen a lot of people talk about lead bars used. Where do you get tham and how much. I have gone to a dive shop and the biggest is 12 lbs and they are abou $2 a puond.

[Sinkoumn]

TRDon, if you're talking about using the lead as ballast your best bet is to go with Pop Products - http://pop-products.com/products/ . They are much easier to move than lead bars/pipe and aren't priced too badly (you can also order a smaller amount of weight from him if you don't want the standard 400lb setup).

[TRDon]

My question is I trailer evey time I go. I have a single axle trailer and am concerned about breaking it or the springs. I have seen loaded boats do that to a trailer. How much of a concern is that?

[Sinkoumn]

If you setup your boat with water ballast like wakeslayer and wakefun did it shouldn't be a problem because you can just empty the main part of the ballast before you trailer-up the boat. If you were to do the 400lb of pop product or lead style weight it really shouldn't be too much stress on the trailer. The nice thing about having both water and lead/steel shot ballast combo is that you can easily empty that water ballast on the lake while the lead/steel can be moved around to evenly weight the boat and compensate for prop pull, and is especially nice if you only have a driver in the boat because you can then add weight to counteract them as well.

But if you are trailering a lot the 400lb lead/steel that you would leave in the boat wouldn't stress the trailer too much (unless you take long trips to and from the lake and over really bumpy roads).

What size boat do you have on the single axle I guess is the best question to really give you a definitive answer though :grin:

[AirTool]

For your axle weight issue, there is no replacement for weighing your setup. Just stop by a truck stop near you and for about 10 dollars you can get a certified weight. I just bought a 2006 206 with a new trailer and comtemplated single vs tandem. Also had to weigh the rig to get a title.

Some locations - http://catscale.findlocation.com/

On the scale, it is broken into sections for each axle. Pull your tow vehicle up so your boat axle is by itself and you'll get the axle weight to 50 lbs. For title, I emptied my boat but topped the fuel. Axle weight was 3950 with another 550 on the hitch. For your case, you would want to load it up the way your are going to tow it. Then you can compare the weight to your axle and TIRE LIMITS. Don't forget to check the tire ratings and inflation pressure. The tires are usually the weak link (until your leaf springs rust up and "freeze"

AirTool

[JWAT]

Wake_fun,

How "plump" do your bags get since you have vent lines? When you push on the bags, can you push them in quite a bit or not too much? I am wanting to put vent lines in my ballast system, but I am mostly concerned that the bags won't fill up all the way. We fill them up pretty solid right now.

[wake_fun]

I have seen a lot of people talk about lead bars used. Where do you get tham and how much. I have gone to a dive shop and the biggest is 12 lbs and they are abou $2 a puond.

I bought the coated lead bars about 3 years ago from a local boat dealer. They are about 55 lbs each. I bought six of them. You can't find them anymore, so your best bet would be to buy the shot bags.

[wake_fun]

Wake_fun,

How "plump" do your bags get since you have vent lines? When you push on the bags, can you push them in quite a bit or not too much? I am wanting to put vent lines in my ballast system, but I am mostly concerned that the bags won't fill up all the way. We fill them up pretty solid right now.

If I were you, I would install the entire system without vents and see how it works. You don't have to have the vents. If you end up wanting them later then you can just add them. Since they are mounted up high it's easy to add later.

My bags fill up all the way, but not super super hard. I don't have a picture of them filled. I would do what I posted above, you just have to watch the bags all the time, which I didn't want to do.

[JWAT]

I already have a ballast system installed. I just never put in vents, but I am tired of watching the bags to see when they get full. Plus, with the way our sun decks are set up with it all being one piece, it's a pain having it up to check the bags and then people can't crawl over it.

I think I am going to install them and see what happens. I think if they didn't get plump enough, I could reduce the tubing size and it would restrict the flow a little more so the sacs fill up more.

[wake_fun]

I already have a ballast system installed. I just never put in vents, but I am tired of watching the bags to see when they get full. Plus, with the way our sun decks are set up with it all being one piece, it's a pain having it up to check the bags and then people can't crawl over it.

EXACTLY Yellow_Flash_Colorz:

I think I am going to install them and see what happens. I think if they didn't get plump enough, I could reduce the tubing size and it would restrict the flow a little more so the sacs fill up more.

I think that you will find they will fill full enough for you. You can try and search for other check valves also. I haven't researched those in a few years. I tried some from Orchard Supply and they were to strong. The ones I bought are basically a flow through design. They close when you turn the pumps the other way to empty. I don't know what the perfect PSI would be for a ballast check valve. If you ever find one, let me know!!!

[h2oskeefreek]

Sorry to drag this topic up again. 1 question and one comment. You used the Launch pad bags with the waterbed type fittings. I just installed a system on my boat, using their 150# bag and if I put too much pressure on the fittings, they pop out of the bag, have you had that problem?

And on the stainless steel manifold you used after the ball valve, are you not concerned about corrosion from dissimilar metals?