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Due to an infinite number of variables, I think it would be more productive to discuss how to “build” a good surf wave using the known limitations and characteristics of the pre ’07 hull, rather than post our individual set ups.
These are the characteristics and limitations I have found with my ’04 SAN. PLEASE ADD YOUR FINDINGS and let’s see if we can come up with a guide for building a good surf wave.
1. As with all boats, you will have limited success with a surf wave in water less than 20ft deep. (Not saying you can’t in less than 20ft.)
2. There is a point of diminishing return with the SAN hull. It can be easily overloaded. Signs of overloading are; rub rail under water, swim platform digging into the wave and/ or never achieving a clean face. It’s best to start with a smaller amount of weight. Your first goal should be to generate a clean faced surf wave. You can then add weight to increase size as you ride. Fill your manually filled ballast first (or move people), and then add your auto ballast while you’re under way. (Opposite for those who’s auto ballast doesn’t fill while under way. Fill auto ballast completely, and then empty while under way.)
3. Prop rotation is a factor with this hull. You can ride both sides successfully, it’s just the opposite side tends to have a smaller window of opportunity to get it rite. Results from opposite side improve greatly by removing as much weight from the prop rotation side of the boat. For example, when building a port side wave on a right hand rotation boat, it is helpful for the driver to drive from the port side observer seat. (Most likely not legal, but safe if you wear a lanyard and a lifejacket.)
4. List is everything. You need to get the rub rail just above the water line (while under way). Understand that if you add a large bag to the bow of the boat and it’s not completely over to one side, you can adversely affect the wave. The same can be true of center weight.
5. Weight the boat evenly front to back as best as you can. In general, rear weight bias produces a steeper/ taller wave that is closer to the boat. Front weight typically produces a shorter/ flatter wave that is longer. Keep in mind that the ability to trim the wave by adding rear or front weight bias is limited to small percentage changes only. Changing your speed is most often an easier and more effective way to alter the wave’s characteristics.
6. Speed is relative to the amount of weight in the boat, weight of the rider and size/ style of the board. More weight usually requires more speed. If you are not getting enough drive out of a clean faced wave, slow down. If you have plenty of drive, but are too close to the boat, speed up.
7. Boards do make a difference. Larger riders need larger boards, bigger fins, or both. If you don’t know how to generate your own drive, you have to rely almost completely on the drive of the wave and the ability of your board to trim (maintain speed while moving straight). If you are a big beginner, you need a big board.
8. Because of the size of the gunnels and the shape/ size of the swim deck, SAN hulls do not produce “monster” waves. They do produce a very good sized wave that has great transition and drive. Your skill and board selection should be your only limitation to achieving a ropeless ride!
These are the characteristics and limitations I have found with my ’04 SAN. PLEASE ADD YOUR FINDINGS and let’s see if we can come up with a guide for building a good surf wave.
1. As with all boats, you will have limited success with a surf wave in water less than 20ft deep. (Not saying you can’t in less than 20ft.)
2. There is a point of diminishing return with the SAN hull. It can be easily overloaded. Signs of overloading are; rub rail under water, swim platform digging into the wave and/ or never achieving a clean face. It’s best to start with a smaller amount of weight. Your first goal should be to generate a clean faced surf wave. You can then add weight to increase size as you ride. Fill your manually filled ballast first (or move people), and then add your auto ballast while you’re under way. (Opposite for those who’s auto ballast doesn’t fill while under way. Fill auto ballast completely, and then empty while under way.)
3. Prop rotation is a factor with this hull. You can ride both sides successfully, it’s just the opposite side tends to have a smaller window of opportunity to get it rite. Results from opposite side improve greatly by removing as much weight from the prop rotation side of the boat. For example, when building a port side wave on a right hand rotation boat, it is helpful for the driver to drive from the port side observer seat. (Most likely not legal, but safe if you wear a lanyard and a lifejacket.)
4. List is everything. You need to get the rub rail just above the water line (while under way). Understand that if you add a large bag to the bow of the boat and it’s not completely over to one side, you can adversely affect the wave. The same can be true of center weight.
5. Weight the boat evenly front to back as best as you can. In general, rear weight bias produces a steeper/ taller wave that is closer to the boat. Front weight typically produces a shorter/ flatter wave that is longer. Keep in mind that the ability to trim the wave by adding rear or front weight bias is limited to small percentage changes only. Changing your speed is most often an easier and more effective way to alter the wave’s characteristics.
6. Speed is relative to the amount of weight in the boat, weight of the rider and size/ style of the board. More weight usually requires more speed. If you are not getting enough drive out of a clean faced wave, slow down. If you have plenty of drive, but are too close to the boat, speed up.
7. Boards do make a difference. Larger riders need larger boards, bigger fins, or both. If you don’t know how to generate your own drive, you have to rely almost completely on the drive of the wave and the ability of your board to trim (maintain speed while moving straight). If you are a big beginner, you need a big board.
8. Because of the size of the gunnels and the shape/ size of the swim deck, SAN hulls do not produce “monster” waves. They do produce a very good sized wave that has great transition and drive. Your skill and board selection should be your only limitation to achieving a ropeless ride!
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