How to configure SV 211 for wake surfing

[LLURE]

I have a 2005 SV 211. My sons are getting into wakesurfing, and thus I have tried to optimize the wake. I fill the starboard ballast and add about 200 to 300 lbs of water weight to the back starboard corner. This makes a decent wake, but the engine compartment floods after 20-30 minutes, and I loose power. Once I drain the engine compartment the boat runs fine. How is the water getting in? Why does it loose power with water in the engine compartment? How do I configure the boat to maximize the wake. P.S. my belly ballast tank will not fill. I just noticed this last weekend. It has always worked before, I think the valve is stuck. Thanks

[HS]

Heard about a possible point of entry: There is a joint between the top deck and the hull that could need to be sealed up, and I think it is located behind the rub rail. I would be seeking some dealer input on the issue. Also, check to see that the blower vent is clear (above) the water line when riding as with aggressive ballast loading, the vent can also become a source of water entry (maybe related to the power loss issue?) Obviously, the engine compartment filling is not good; get that stuff fixed then worry about adding opti wave ballast. Maybe also check to see if there is a leak in the ballast tank or fill line.

[RLS]

I get a lot of water in my bilge. I think some may comes from the joint as mention above but most comes in the air vents. Your bilge should come on way before the engine has a problem. I would first look to see if the connection has come off your tank. Check all the tanks. I would check your bilge pumps. They should be able to keep up with the water. Then when you are surfing check to see if water is coming in your vents.

[jcox17]

I have had this problem as well. I believe the water comes in from the air vents and maybe thru the bilge pump hose. the bilge will not pump out water while you are surfing the starboard side because it is in the water.

[Mikeski]

It is very easy to overload the 211 for surfing, I have done it several times only to turn the wake into a frothy mess. If you overload it or load the weight too far back you will not get a clean surfing wake. With a small crew I fill the belly ballast tank and port tank then move 100lbs of pop bags into the passenger storage compartment against the side of the hull, move the passengers into the port side seating areas in the middle, not in the front nor in the back. The key is keeping the boat on a lean but weighing it down evenly front to back. Last weekend I was out with a crew of 6 in the boat. I actually ended up running the center and port tanks about 1/2 full before I could get the wake to clean up. If you are running on a lake make a large circle as you tow your rider, maybe 200 yard radius. If your rider gets in trouble a quick turn toward the rider will pop up a big wave and save him/her if they are still trying to surf. When your rider falls turn away and throttle back, then turn around the other way as your wave passes. This way you will not need to cross your own wakes. This turn around method makes the experience much nicer for your boat crew. It will take you an additional 20 seconds to get back to your rider but they can wait (you might even save a bit of gas).

[ScrewPusher]

I have a 2005 211 TE, I have pulled both rear tanks and replaced with flexible tanks. I usually don't have too many extra people for ballast, so that is why I did that. I'm completely feed up with the current pump and valve system that leak constantly. Can somebody who has replaced the livewell pumps post pictures showing the location of the Jabsco pumps. Where do the newer boats place the pumps? Thanks for any help.

[Mikeski]

I am on my third ballast pump conversion and on the third season of this solution. My solution was to replace the fill pumps with impeller pumps and completely eliminate the valves. I mounted them on the cross brace for the slalom pylon support. They work pretty well, about the same speed filling as the factory system but no priming or valve issues. They also don't fill when I don't want them to fill. I wouldn't waste your time on the TH valve retrofit, they get very stiff after one season. I ended up breaking one of my knobs after they got very stiff to operate.

Nautique Jeff replaced the valves on his old boat with electric solenoid valves. Each has it's advantages and disadvantages.

[ScrewPusher]

Mike, Could you post a picture of your mounting? I was thinking of the solenoid valves, read the threads on that, but the price is about equal with a new pump. Did you completely remove the in-line ball valves also?

[Mikeski]

Warning! the following post contains pictures of pumps that are not ignition protected installed in the motor compartment. Do not do this unless you are willing to risk death and dismemberment as the boat will surely explode.

That said, I am comfortable with my installation and I recommend you duplicate what I have done except you use ignition protected pumps like the Jabsco Ballast Puppy or the Johnson Ultra Ballast pumps. I already have one Jabsco and one Johnson, once I get a third I will make the conversion over to ignition protected pumps. For now it works and I would rather spend my very limited free time boarding so it will stay like this for this summer.

The system is on the third summer and the impellers are leaking a bit due to the pressure from the scoops at slalom speeds. I have the new impellers in a bag ready to go in but back to that time issue... For now I just either turn those manual valves off or just run the empty pumps (they are aerators so they can run for the entire duration of my slalom run without issue, at least they have done so until now, I am still using the original empty pumps). My system is free of valves except for the manual ball valves. It still sprays water out of the side when emptying the tanks since I am using my factory drain systems. I replaced the stock valve handles with a audio system input/output access panel.

View at your own risk!

[boatnfly@att.net]

Why won't your belly balast not fill, that would be my first question. Maybe it has a leak and the pump is running thus the water is moving to the engine compartment vs. the tank. I would seriously look at that issue first. Water in the engine compartment, mmm. Gotta tell you i was never a fan of putting water in a boat for sports, i like the water out on the river for that, but if you have to i would make sure whatever you use, tanks or bags, make sure they don't leak. Could end up with major trouble if they do.

[CradGen2]

[QUOTE=Mikeski;162379]Warning! the following post contains pictures of pumps that are not ignition protected installed in the motor compartment. Do not do this unless you are willing to risk death and dismemberment as the boat will surely explode.

I don't understand the difference in the pumps. Please tell.

[Mikeski]

ignition protected means they are built so they cannot produce a spark