HELP! Perfect Pass

[BrennanK]

What about a StarGazer Wake Edition. It is a lot cheaper and it works in a course and for skiing, and ect. Would that fit my needs better because it has the full PP package?? I dont want or need the magnet stuff and extra advanced features like the 3 event has.

Would the Wake Edition be better. It sounds like it has what i need. Slalom, RPM, and course

Wake edition would be just fine. The only feature the 3 event has over wake it the smart timer for the magnets. They use the same master module so you can eventually upgrade to the 3 event. When you install the system I would still tell it that it is 3 event and just not use the smart timers as you are primarily a course skier.

If you are really strapped for cash, why not run with just the right speedometer? You should be basing you speed of the tachometer anyways. I would not consider the Precision Star system, you ski the course. If you cannot afford Stargazer, wait until you can. You by no means need it, it is just a really nice accessory.

If you do decide to go with Stargazer, feel free to ask me (or any of us for the matter) for installation help. I just installed it on my 1997 last week.

[EntiatSkier]

Thank you very much BrennanK!

Its not that i am strapped on cash, i am still paying for my boat and i dont want to add a bigger pile onto it for something i am unsure about.

I finally made a decision and i am getting a Wake edition. I realized the precision star would have the same affect as taping my smartphone to my dashboard.lol

And the the right speedometer tends to go out since it is in weedy/shallow water.

How hard was the installation? I like your 97 by the way!

[Chexi]

Or just suction cup a portable Harmon on your window. I've run this way before.

[todda]

Hey Entiat, yeah I know Suncove. We have looked at property in there before. I haven't seen the course there, but sounds nice that it is protected from the main current. Rip it up! For river skiing, there is no where better in WA state! Are you over there Aug 1-5?

Todd

[EntiatSkier]

Really? Its a nice area in there? Where were you looking in suncove? You may not have seen the course. it depends when you went to look at property because it was moved down in front of suncove two years ago. Before it was in front of the next development up. The development with the huge houses right on the highway. Thats we Matt Hasselbeck has a house now.lol

And for river skiing in WA.. you are very correct about nothing like it!
Since you are going to Pateros, you might also want to go up to Rufus Woods lake. Its one lake up. There is a beautiful state park there called "Bridgeport State Park". There is ENDLESS glass on that lake. Once you go about 1 mile or so up river, there are no boats. Also some nice beaches that are deep, so perfect for inboard boats!

And i will check for that week. probably will be


Oh, and about the original question... I did decide to go all out and buy a PP!

[EntiatSkier]

Also, is it possible to get a white background with a black bezel or border so it matches my original analogs?

What do you all have color wise?

[BrennanK]

Also, is it possible to get a white background with a black bezel or border so it matches my original analogs?

What do you all have color wise?

Yes it is. I just got a white Nautique branded face with a black bezel. Call Jody Seal at Florida Inboards 850-215-1996.
He will also have the best price on Perfect Pass.
If you want I can post a picture of my actual gauge when I get home today.

[EntiatSkier]

Ok. Thanks. I jut got a Nautique White PerfectPass with a Black bezel. It will get to our house on the east side on monday.

Its pretty simple to install yourself right? I looked at the manual and videos, looks simple.

And a picture would be great!

[BrennanK]

The install is pretty straight forward. The hardest part for many is running the wire from the dash to the bilge, I commonly hear that people use the slack in the disconnected throttle cable as a pull wire. I did not want to do that. I used a fish wire and just poked around for a few minutes. I crawled under the bow and pushed it down to the bilge following the other cables as I went. A few tries and I had success. I tied a rope on to my fish wire and pulled that back through. Then I attached the servo control cable to the new pull rope and another rope for future use, and pulled it through. My next step was the dash. I removed the steering wheel with the 6 screws and then the dash pod with the 4 thumb screws. I did not have to disconnect any of the wiring harness to pull the dash back. I just set it on the steering column and that was enough room for me to work. I removed my right speedometer and plugged the pilot tube with a golf tee and a few zip ties. I then installed the perfect pass gauge. I then connected the power and rpm cables to the back of the tachometer. All you need to do is piggy back on top of the existing cables, they are labeled and color coded. Next I stuck my GPS puck on the dash and fed all the wires down through the hole in the back of the dash. I choose to not zip tie them as I might have trouble getting the dash off in the future. I mounted the master module under the observers seat far enough back where it was by the hole that leads down the the bilge. I attached all the cables to the master module and set the servo motor on the floor of the boat to test everything. I powered it on and everything and it worked so I buttoned the dash back up and slightly cleaned up the cables up under the dash/bow. I used some sticky things that I could feed a zip tie through. I ran my wire for the timer and stuck it to the floor under the observers seat on the port side. My final step was to connect the servo motor. I removed the black top plate on the motor and the spark arrestor. This was enough room to remove the ball and socket from the existing linkage. I then installed the L bracket in the center hold and fed the servo cable through and linked the servo to the throttle cable. Snuged everything up and installed the lock nuts to test it. I put my throttle all the way down and used the knob on the servo to open and close the throttle, it worked smoothly. I choose to mount my servo motor on the cool water line just coming up from the impeller. That is basically the entire install. If you have any more questions or would like more detailed pictures, just ask.

[EntiatSkier]

Thank you so much! Yours looks very good. Do you like the Perfect Pass gauge on the right better then the left?

Also, can you verify i have the picture below right...


Click on image to make larger...

Thanks again! I appreciate your help : )

[BrennanK]

The wire the goes down to the bilge is the furthest on the right. It actually just loops over and there is the hole that goes down. The holes that you see are where the pipes for the glove box drain used to be. I removed those and capped them. I have the pull rope tied through the holes. The rest of the wires, you are correct, just go in a bundle up to the dash.
Many people prefer the gauge on the right. I think it has to do with most people are right handed and that you can remove you hand from the throttle and press buttons while keeping a hand on the steering wheel. I think it is easier to access that way as well. I would have to reach my hand over the wheel to adjust if it was installed on the left. You can simply swtich you good speedometer to the other side during the install while keeping the left side pilot tube so it won't clog.

[EntiatSkier]

Ok, now i understand. Because i was wondering where the drain tube was for a minute.

And thats what i was planning on doing. Switching them over. so Analog on the left and PP on the right

[EntiatSkier]

Is it alot easer to feed the wires down the tube from the drain tube area like you did? Also, on the bottom of the floor, to the right of the engine, is were all the wires are running. They are all in tubes as well. Is it ok to just put the wires there??? Do you have a pic of were the wires run? This is the only part were im lost.

[BrennanK]

You will need to feed the wires down the hold behind the driver kick panel. That is the only way. The will come out on the right side of the bilge right next to the other wires that run from the dash. Just crawl under the bow with a flash light a look around. That is how I learned. I removed the driver kick panel when I was running the fish wire for the servo wire, it gave me a lot my room and light. I have attached several pictures from under my bow of how all my components are laid out. Sorry for the blurry pictures, not much light under there...

[BrennanK]

After taking all these pictures, I think I will make a full (more detailed) write up for the how to section. I will make that over the next few weeks for those who are interested.