Or simply try launching it with not so much trailer in the water, it will allow the boat to move down the trailer further past the problem area before changing angle. Also one it is off the trailer spray the bunks with silicone spray to reduce the friction between boat and trailer.
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Originally posted by Nautiques_NZ View PostWe have had similar issues here in New Zealand, We have ramps of so many different angles it is hard to find somethhing that works for everyone. This is the best we have come up with, Works fine and makes the boat alot easier to launch on any ramp angle, Generally do not need to have the trailer so deep either.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]15343[/ATTACH]
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1,000 Post Club Member
- Jul 2003
- 2908
- San Francisco, CA
- Current 2005 SV 211, due for upgrade! GS22 or GS24 perhaps? Previous
Take the trailer back to the dealer and tell them to fix it. Based on what I see in the pictures that is a poor design for any ramp angle. I always drive my boats on/off of the trailer and that design would only allow the boat to float off which means the trailer is completely sunk likely as well as the rear axle and half of the tow vehicle. The old DHMs had similar issues with the SANs, it took them a year to get the issues worked out. I have a front roller on my 211, the main bunks are longer and the roller supports the nose. I also deal with a winch setup on the boat we have at our slalom course. It's a challenge to get it in the correct location so the winch and everything works correctly.
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The only downside to extending the bunks is that the chine will tear the carpet on the way down once the bow sits down in the water. We tried pretty much everything to get the ski/sport 200's to load and unload right on all ramps. Thats how we ended up with both, bunks on the rear 2/3's and a set of rollers under the bow.
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- Feb 2006
- 257
- Big Rock, Illinois
- 2012 200 Sport 1956 Correct Craft Collegian Past boats 1955 Correct Craft Hurricane 81 Anniversary Nautique 1960 GlassCraft Ski Nautique #1
NZ, When you have time could you post some closer pictures of the roller mod. I have a 200 sport with the same boatmate trailer as the OP and it works fine on a typical ramp but when our lake is down the ramp drops off and the angle changes dramatically. I can see where this is going to be a problem for us somewhere along the way too. The trailer as designed is really fine for an average ramp but those steep ones are tough. If we back in too deep the bow is below the bow stop, but when you pull the trailer out a few feet you have to really power up on those forward vee bunks. Not something I want to do on a regular basis, those rollers may very well be the answer for us also. Thanks
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- Aug 2011
- 36
- Dexter Iowa
- 1970 Skier, 1974 Skier, 1978 Ski Tique, 1984 Ski Tique, 1988 2001, 1996 SNOB
Alan, I wondered about this when you launched the boat for the first time. I have the same problem with our 96 in that the bow roller is too high causing us to have to power load the boat.
I know we're talking about two completely different boats and trailers, but is there any way you can add a roller for the keel to raise the nose? We're looking into this for ours this winter and may be a more simple solution than replacing the bunks with rollers all together. Here's a picture of what we're looking to add.
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Originally posted by Storm34 View PostAlan, I wondered about this when you launched the boat for the first time. I have the same problem with our 96 in that the bow roller is too high causing us to have to power load the boat.
I know we're talking about two completely different boats and trailers, but is there any way you can add a roller for the keel to raise the nose? We're looking into this for ours this winter and may be a more simple solution than replacing the bunks with rollers all together. Here's a picture of what we're looking to add.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]15351[/ATTACH]
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Originally posted by 81nautique View PostNZ, When you have time could you post some closer pictures of the roller mod. I have a 200 sport with the same boatmate trailer as the OP and it works fine on a typical ramp but when our lake is down the ramp drops off and the angle changes dramatically. I can see where this is going to be a problem for us somewhere along the way too. The trailer as designed is really fine for an average ramp but those steep ones are tough. If we back in too deep the bow is below the bow stop, but when you pull the trailer out a few feet you have to really power up on those forward vee bunks. Not something I want to do on a regular basis, those rollers may very well be the answer for us also. Thanks
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Thanks heaps for the pics of the roller setups. They look great. I'm pretty sure that's the direction we will be taking. I have been in contact with our dealer and Boatmate and my final response I received from Boatmate was an admission that the export trailers to Australia have the bunks raised an extra 2" so they can make the trailer narrower to comply with our standards and they put the electronic braking system on the front hitch beam which gets submerged when you back in far enough to float the boat off. Their answer to fixing the problem of the hull hanging on the bunks...just back your trailer in deeper! Meanwhile we loose sight of the guide poles, water starts coming through the floor pan of the car and the brake electrics are corroded and stuffed within 6 months. I'm hoping our dealer makes a clear point about the issue with them so they can correct the design fault...chances are though that unless everyone starts complaining, nothing will change.
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