2001 SAN Ballast Upgrade Install

[crobi2]

@MI-Nick - if you are worried about the fiberglass, you could just use some bigger washers. You could even squeeze some silicone rubber in the holes and under the washers to further help isolate the sound. I really like that location for the pumps. If you do it, try to plan for up to four pumps even if you are only going to start with two. Let us know how it works!

[MI-Nick]

how thick is the glass in that area??

[crobi2]

Can't tell you exactly, but it's pretty stout. Maybe Cinco can tell us.

[cinco]

Hard to actually measure the thickness but I would guess just a hair under 1/4". I think aluminum plates would definitely reduce the stress on the fiberglass, but I didn't have any good ideas on how to manufacture plates. If you have a decent idea, i would love to hear it because my boat is still apart and it would be easy to install. Still, I am comfortable with the current setup based on the fiberglass thickness and the rubber grommets.

[cinco]

Electrical Wiring

SO the biggest question I had was which color wire on the pump (red or black) was fill/empty and which direction the pump flowed. In the end I had no idea, I just guessed then tested the pumps using a bucket to recycle the water to figure out which switch did what, and if it didn't "fill" when i went to "fill" on the switch, then i just reversed the wiring on the reverse side of the switch. That being said, make the back side of your switches accessible until you are sure of your wiring.

See the diagram attached-

I was not sure if I could tie in to anywhere behind the battery to provide power to the pumps, so I mounted a 12 AWG 2 wire directly to the positive battery terminal. Each side of the wire went to a switch to provide power to pump. Close to the battery, i installed inline 20 AMP fuse holders. I than ran 12 AWG 2 wire directly from the negative terminal to the switches. Again, there might be a better place to ground it out, but i knew the battery was a safe bet. There are two terminals on the back of each switch that will require a ground. I cut the wire, made two separate smaller wires with female connections on the end, then tied all 3 together via a wire nut. A ran 12 AWG 2 wire directly from each pump to the switch. Each wire (black and red) needed to be connected to 2 separate post, so I used the same procedure as above (cut the wire, made two separate smaller wires with female connections on the end, then tied all three together via a wire nut). Be sure you cut the smaller wires with female connectors long enough so you have enough room behind the switch because you will have a total of 6 wire nuts.

DO NOT PUT THE FUSE IN YET.

Connect wires to the back of the switch.

PUT IN FUSES

Test the switches with desired pump direction using a bucket of water to cycle the water. If pump direction does not match switch, swap the wires on the back of the switch. (switch the switch)

Install switches to side panel.

[cinco]

I am currently using the stock prop. When I can spring the extra cash, I am leaning towards an ACME 1234.

[azeus17]

Good info. Maybe I missed it somewhere, but why didn't you use the factory switches?

[crobi2]

With the stock prop (OJ 14x18) and that setup (2x750+locker600+integrated est.400) you probably will get it on plane with the throttle all the way open and any passengers up in the bow. It will take a long time but once up will hold the speed if you are going at least 22 mph. It's probably horrible for your motor though so you might try to get a replacement prop as soon as you can.

Being a larger diameter prop (14.5") than the OJ, the 1234 with 14.25p and .105 cup will be great for that load. Just make sure that you have enough clearance with the hull to run that extra 1/4" of radius.

[cinco]

I agree that is too much for the setup. I don't plan on filling the rear sacks all the way, around 1/2 - 2/3s full, and my locker sack is only a 370 lb. I think i will be running around 1500lbs total. The idea of the 750 lbs bags for now is wake surfing.

azeus17 - I only have one factory switch, a fill and empty button on my dash. That is used for the ski locker/bow sack, so i needed to add switches.

[azeus17]

Gotcha. Next question, which I think I know the answer to, but thought I would ask to verify. Are the ballast gauges still functional when you switch out hard tanks for bags? I think no, but maybe you guys found a way.

[crobi2]

Naw, there is no reasonable way to use those gauges with sacs.

[SprintST]

Cinco, please give us an update on the system and let us know how it is working. Hopefully you've used the boat the last several months. Is there anything you would do differently if you had to do it over again.

And, GREAT write up and thread. Thanks.

[cinco]

So here is the update to the system...

For the most part everything works great. My biggest caution is to ensure you do the electrical part right the first time. I had to go back and fix some of my wiring due to initial poor attention to detail, but I have now worked out all the kinks.

The biggest change I would make, and will be making this winter, is installing a third reversible pump. I had originally used the stock pumps to fill/empty the locker and bow sack. The fill up fine, but emptying them is a pain. I have not identified if it is a pump issue or if it is a priming issue on the pump. Also, I had to modify my original design of the locker sack overflow filling the bow sack. I know have a "Y" split in my locker with two ball valves, one leads to the locker, and one leads to the bow sack. It gives me the flexibility to fill/empty the bags independently, plus fixes the issue of the bow sack not filling all the way. There was just too much resistance on the pump. If anyone wants, I will post a picture of the ball valves to give you an idea of how it works. The best part is that I do not have to leave my seat, I can just reach over to the ski locker and twist the valves.

The third reversible pump will be wired to the stock 'empty' and 'fill' switches so there will be no requirement to add a switch.

[youngunz]

Hey Ya'll,

I am a little late to this thread but I have a few suggestion for anyone looking to improve there stock ballast system. Being relatively new to wakeboarding, I am taking my time with making improvements to my '02 SANTE. Although the summer is coming to an end (Ontario, Canada) I am still riding when I can to make use of my new ballast system (2 Johnson's in the rear, 1 for the bow), rear 750# fat sac, PP GPS, custom bimini.

Now that I am riding with substantially more than the stock ballast, I am looking for some insight on which prop I should upgrade too?? I am able to get up onto plane, its simply takes a little longer, with a little worry that over time I will strain the engine.

I have attached a few photos of the mods I have done over the course of the summer.

'younguz86
2002 SANTE

[SprintST]

ACME Props has some great info. I run a 4 blade (don't remember the model) on a 2002 SAN and most of the time we run stock ballast. At the beginning of the day with a 4 man crew we can get a 230 lb rider up quickly, but later in the day after gas has been burned we need to throw a person in the bow to get a 230 lb rider up quickly. A friend of mine drops a 750 lb fatsac (2007 MC XStar) down the center of the boat which keeps his nose down and builds a bigger wake (I've done the same with identical results). Play with your weight and you'll figure out what works well for your boat.

Here's a surfing picture where you can see some extreme ballasting. When we surf we throw a MONSTER wake!


Jerry