Yet Another 1999 SAN 210 Ballast Install

[scarbs]

I mentioned in a previous post that I was working on a ballast install and that I'd post some pics when completed. Well, I am not quite done (no lake test yet) but pretty much there and thought I'd share a few pics. I'd like to thank all of those who have documented their own ballast installs. You know who you are. I could not have managed my install without your information and photos. And you pretty much covered everything. The only reason that I am even posting is because when I was planning the install--and installing it--I wanted to see all pics possible.

It is a basic ballast upgrade--3 sacs and 3 ballast puppies. I used two black 750 lb sacs in the v-drive lockers and a black rear seat sac in the ski locker. I drilled two 1" intakes for the v-drive sacs and used the existing 3/4" intake for the ski locker sac. But I used a 3/4" to 1" fitting on the ball valve so that 1" hose feeds the sac. I also drilled a bunch of holes in the scoop strainer on the factory intake thru-hull.

All intake thru-hulls and ball valves are bronze. All fill/empty hose is 1". All vent hose is 3/4". I also removed the white plastic venting, drain, and bilge thru-hulls (6 total) and replaced them with Nautique thru-hulls (gray plastic with a stainless bezzle) from nautiqueparts.com. All parts, bags, hose, etc. except for the hull side thru-hulls, ball valves, intake thru-hulls, and screens are from wakemakers.

I picked up the aliminum plate and angle at a local metal supply shop--Industrial Metal Supply. I wanted to mount the pumps between the back seat and the engine compartment, so I used 2" angle mounted to the support bars to create a little cavity so that the pumps would fit without modification to the rear seat base. I think it turned out pretty well--I have about an inch to spare between the pumps and the back of the seat. The 2" angle also gave me a little bit of wiggle room on the mount, which was needed, because I don't know about all of your 210s, but my support bars are not verticle--the distance between them is narrower at the bottom than at the top. I also used 1/4" bolts for everything.

The electrical install is also installed, but I don't have any good pics yet. Will post those later.

[scarbs]

A few more pics...

[delmage171]

great install! I did a similar set up last fall. I ran a 4 pump system though, plan to upgrade my rear bags to 750s & ski locker sac this winter. Should be pushing around 3000lbs

[scarbs]

Thanks man. And yeah, I know you did a similar install. I looked at your thread at least a dozen times before and as I was doing mine. I will likely add a pump or two once I figure out what I want to do under the bow. Right now, with the one manual-fill sac I have for distribution, I have almost 2500 lbs of ballast. My ACME 644 could not handle it so I had to install a 1464.

[delmage171]

Nice! I plan to upgrade my prop this spring to a 1464 as well once I have the new bags. Excited to see how well the new prop works with that much weight

[Chexi]

Looks really good. I'll try to take some pics and post of my setup for piggybacking off my locker sac pump for use in the bow and rear cabin areas for surfing.

[hyparks]

Looks great, nice job. Looking at changing my aerator pumps for puppies. Does your setup empty the sacs back through the bottom of the boat? That's how mine works currently but my mates 05 210 empties out through the thru hulls at the side of the boat. Would like to do something similar without using two pumps per sac. Sorry to hijack your thread!

[scarbs]

...I'll try to take some pics and post of my setup for piggybacking off my locker sac pump for use in the bow and rear cabin areas for surfing.

I'd appreciate that. I have read several threads about piggybacking or adding the integrated bow sac for front weight, but also several threads indicating that for surfing, it is ideal for bow weight to be on one side of the bow or the other. So I am toying with the idea of adding a couple of sacs under the bow seats to allow me to dial in the surf wake. But I don't really want to buy two more pumps just to dial in the surf wake.

[scarbs]

...Does your setup empty the sacs back through the bottom of the boat?...

Yes...fill and empty through the thru-hulls on the bottom of the boat. Side thru-hulls only vent.

[Chexi]

I'd appreciate that. I have read several threads about piggybacking or adding the integrated bow sac for front weight, but also several threads indicating that for surfing, it is ideal for bow weight to be on one side of the bow or the other. So I am toying with the idea of adding a couple of sacs under the bow seats to allow me to dial in the surf wake. But I don't really want to buy two more pumps just to dial in the surf wake.

Quick connects are your friends. I actually put my bow surf sac on top of the seats (because I have lead underneath), but with my setup, I could have 2 sacs under the bow (1 on each side) and still use the 1 of my 3 pumps that I am not using for anything else (i.e., the non-surfside rear pump). I can also use that same pump to fill my main cabin sac that goes on the seats thanks to a Y garden hose splitter with built-in shut-off valves for each of the splits. My setup does require changing a quick connect now and again, but it takes seconds, and that is the price of not having 5 pumps. The only down-side in my system is if you would want to fill the non-surf side rear sac for surfing for some reason. Can't do it, because it has been disconnected from the pump. I'll take pictures tonight if I can remember.

[Chexi]

Looks great, nice job. Looking at changing my aerator pumps for puppies. Does your setup empty the sacs back through the bottom of the boat? That's how mine works currently but my mates 05 210 empties out through the thru hulls at the side of the boat. Would like to do something similar without using two pumps per sac. Sorry to hijack your thread!

To do this with 1 pump per bag, you have to use check valves and Y splitters so that when the pump tries to push the water back through the inlet, the check-valve swings closed re-routing the water through the Y fitting (between the bag and the check valve) to exit through the side thru-hull. I believe you also need check valves on the exit side too so your pumps won't suck air when filling the bags. For good in-line check valves, you are looking at $40 for the pair for each pump plus the y fittings, plus extra 3/4" hose. It's slick, but gets pricey for marginal convenience. The only tangible benefit it provides is that if you pay attention you will see the water stop flowing out the sides to indicate that your bags are empty. Most of us can hear the difference anyway as the pumps change pitch when they stop sucking water.

[ers906]

I have four pumps in my 2002 SAN (2 V-drive, locker, and under cushion bow) but have plumbed extra sacs in by using the Fly High Diverter Valve set up on wakemakers.com. I run an extra 1000 bow sac and a 400 behind the drivers seat. I mounted the valves on the kick panel (I removed the heater from under the console and am building a removable housing for it for winter riding), so I can leave the pumps running and just turn the valve 180 degrees for the extra sacs to fill. Takes a while to get it all set up but seems to dial in the consitency of wake that I have been looking for. I can post pictures this weekend of both the heater build and ballast set up. Actually am placing the heater in a cooler with holes drilled for vents, wiring harness and water flow hoses. Will make it easy to quick disconnect and remove for the summer, as well as making the vent hoses easier for my GF to use instead of annoying my feet while I am driving.

[hyparks]

To do this with 1 pump per bag, you have to use check valves and Y splitters so that when the pump tries to push the water back through the inlet, the check-valve swings closed re-routing the water through the Y fitting (between the bag and the check valve) to exit through the side thru-hull. I believe you also need check valves on the exit side too so your pumps won't suck air when filling the bags. For good in-line check valves, you are looking at $40 for the pair for each pump plus the y fittings, plus extra 3/4" hose. It's slick, but gets pricey for marginal convenience. The only tangible benefit it provides is that if you pay attention you will see the water stop flowing out the sides to indicate that your bags are empty. Most of us can hear the difference anyway as the pumps change pitch when they stop sucking water.

Thanks for that Chexi! Probably not worth the hassle to do it then.

[scarbs]

Tested the ballast system out this weekend and everything worked great. But I think I'll add check valves to the vent lines to create a vacuum effect while draining to get more water out of the sacs. Anyway, here are a couple more pics of the install...

[figorico]

omq.

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