Nautique Surf System

[NautiqueJeff]

Yes, it is. The NCRS is only on the G23 & G25.

[limegreen]

It does not replace the NCRS. Look at the picture on the first page of this thread. You can see both systems in place.

man i am so far behind. i am back in the hydro gate lever technology thinking (**** i dont even own one just trying to process all this so i can figure out which year to slip in.


so is the NCRS a horizontal wake plate in the middle of the hull - same locaiotn as the old hydro gate?

[High altitude]

It will be interesting to see how far out the nautique system actually protrudes compared to CL system. This picture shows out somewhat...But maybe not fully.

Man, that is so clean!! I still am in awe of the engineers. This seems so much better than surfgate to me. Obviously, the wave is where the proof is but I just like the design so much better. The integration into the Linc system is also cool. I love that you can have preprogrammed ballast, waveplate and now NSS settings for everybody in your crew. I love to cut up and down the wave. I have a friend or two who likes to do tricks. I would prefer a longer wave and the trickers would like a steep one. Combine that with my daughters who are just starting out that want a smaller wave with plently of push and you really have a lot of demands on one boat. (Much less the Goofy/Normal split). Bottom line, this system will be a game changer and once again increase boat sales for Nautique!

[High altitude]

Based on the installtion instructions http://great-water.com/store/PDF/man...%20install.pdf the tabs extend 35mm.

Based on info on the web, you need to make sure you mount them on a flat surface or shim them properly so that you don't get binding. They show some mounting guides as well. Basically you are going to need 12" of straight edge to work with so that they mount properly. I don't have access to my boat or I would have been out measuring the back to see if they will fit.

If they don't fit, you could use something like the Lenco actuator ( http://www.lencomarine.com/index.php...nd-accessories ) but have them just sliding the interceptor panel out. That would let you build a custom aluminum panel that matches the edge of your hull. Once that design is done, we just need to have templates for each hull shape and you could fit that on any boat. But I agree it would really be trial and error to get it right without someone who really understands fluid flow.

Good news is that there are enough different parts that are designed for real marine use so you at least know they can handle the water, etc.

Marc - how do you plan to hold the side plates in place for testing? Bolt/clamp to swim platform mounts?

I'll use some inverted "L" shaped steel thru bolted to my teak swim platform. I'm sure many a person on this forum just cringed, but I'm fine with it. I have at least three years before I upgrade my boat and I'm always looking to make things better on the boat that I have. I have a few other projects I'm working on right now but I will document everything when I start this and share my results. In terms of actually building it it will be much easier than the surf gate I built. (Both the demo and working model)

As for the folks with the older boats w/o Linc 2.0, don't lament. If the parts can be sold by dealers direct to boat owners, the retrofit would be simple. Yes, the wiring would be a manual setup but it would be easy. The real issue is getting a plate prebuilt with the right hull shape. I happen to own a '99 SN so I know none of the designs out there will ever work for me. I have to build something myself or it's just a matter of leaning the boat over with sacs laying all around until I can upgrade to a Sport 200. Luckily, I live on a lake so I have plenty of time for experimentation. -Marc

[NautiqueJeff]

That's fully-extended.

[scottb7]

It will be interesting to see how far out the nautique system actually protrudes compared to CL system. This picture shows out somewhat...But maybe not fully.

[moto822]

Same situation for me as well (2010 210 SANTE), but from what I am reading, we are out of luck. I wonder if the connection with LINK 2 is also needed to adjust steering...with some much drag on one side of the boat, I would assume the system would compensate for it somewhere in the software?

I just heard from my dealer and he informed me that the current solution is for the 2.0 only. He did inform me that they are aggressively working on a solution for the SANTE 2010/2011. I will post if I hear more.

[ES]

I have the 2010 SANTE 230, I am assuming my LINK is 1.0 but not 100%. Does anyone know if this will work? If not that is pretty disappointing they didn't find a way to integrate.

Same situation for me as well (2010 210 SANTE), but from what I am reading, we are out of luck. I wonder if the connection with LINK 2 is also needed to adjust steering...with some much drag on one side of the boat, I would assume the system would compensate for it somewhere in the software?

[dfoster]

Based on the installtion instructions http://great-water.com/store/PDF/man...%20install.pdf the tabs extend 35mm.

Based on info on the web, you need to make sure you mount them on a flat surface or shim them properly so that you don't get binding. They show some mounting guides as well. Basically you are going to need 12" of straight edge to work with so that they mount properly. I don't have access to my boat or I would have been out measuring the back to see if they will fit.

If they don't fit, you could use something like the Lenco actuator ( http://www.lencomarine.com/index.php...nd-accessories ) but have them just sliding the interceptor panel out. That would let you build a custom aluminum panel that matches the edge of your hull. Once that design is done, we just need to have templates for each hull shape and you could fit that on any boat. But I agree it would really be trial and error to get it right without someone who really understands fluid flow.

Good news is that there are enough different parts that are designed for real marine use so you at least know they can handle the water, etc.

Marc - how do you plan to hold the side plates in place for testing? Bolt/clamp to swim platform mounts?

[moto822]

Yes, there is a software update that allows for detailed control from the LINK. You would also need to add the wiring and the two devices to the transom.

I have the 2010 SANTE 230, I am assuming my LINK is 1.0 but not 100%. Does anyone know if this will work? If not that is pretty disappointing they didn't find a way to integrate.

[High altitude]

Sorry I couldn't edit last post for some reason. After actually watching the video, I was able to answer my own question. The video states that these extend "several" centimeters. It might be exactly what is needed. A basic kit costs $740 on Ebay. That would just give you extention on the sides. To include the bottom would be more of course.

I think my plan is to make a prototype using 1/8 inch aluminum and see if a side mount improves my wave. Then I will try side and bottom which would be in line with the Nautique system. They will be static systems to start but if they can do the job then these systems might be the way to go. This product would allow for a very clean install.

As I have learned from my previous experiments, this is a trial an error business. Without some sort of hydrodynamic modeling system, it comes down to some smart guess work and then going for it. I hope a few other people get the itch as well. -Marc

[High altitude]

Here is an interesting one...One could simply mount four of these, two on each corner. The trim tab blocks come in two different sizes. They would have very minimal effect on wake when retracted.

http://www.foreandaftmarine.com/VO-QL3841717.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJDnuQ_xsWI

Interesting find. I wonder how far these extend out?

[scottb7]

Here is an interesting one...One could simply mount four of these, two on each corner. The trim tab blocks come in two different sizes. They would have very minimal effect on wake when retracted.

http://www.foreandaftmarine.com/VO-QL3841717.htm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJDnuQ_xsWI

[High altitude]

I wonder how much $ and if someday nautiqueparts could get all the bolt on stuff and then we (2011 and earlier with/without linc) could rig some switch like this. This type has led's showing the in/out level for both sides. i get that it would not be as good but it would be pretty sweet. Are the new nautique ones elec or hydraulic?

That's basically what I used for my "surfgate" trial last year. I didn't spend the extra money to use the lighted trim switch but instead used some ballast pump rocker switches. Exact same setup just without the pretty lights. Needless to say, this (above) would be a better long-term solution but it costs more money and was not worth it for trial version. I would bet money that Nautique went with electric actuators (versus hydraulics) due to the simplicity of the setup. Assuming that is the case...the wiring would take less than an hour. I would expect the installation to take a bit more. I would assume the plates are thru bolted and that would be a pain in the arse for many boats. -Marc

[MIskier]

Much more elegant job than the 'bu, these are basically interceptors mounted vertically rather than the horizontally at the transom.

The transom hook on the prostar functions in much the same manner as these do. They allow for earlier separation of flow from the hull which has the effect of creating a bigger hollow behind the boat.

Posted this yesterday on Team Talk as a little synopsis of how these work from an engineering perspective


Although these are still going to have the same problem as the surf gate in that they will cause the boat have to be continuously counter steered to remain on a straight course due to the increase in pressure that occurs right before the interceptor.

I attached an image that shows how it functions and the resulting larger hollow.

Credit for the figure is to Hydrodynamics of High Speed Marine Vehicles