After pulling Hard tanks in 210 . . .

[Clibka]

OP - 1100's full in the rear with the belly tank full is probably fine for surfing (I really only board), but you'll never plane out/get up to riding speed with that set-up for wakeboarding. Even with the Integrated sac full (650lb sac...fills 1/2 at best so call it 325lbs) and factory belly tank full, you wont be able to get up on plane with the 1100's full in the rear (just not enough front weight...you might have a chance with the 1235 prop, maybe). I would say if you are going to run 1100's full in the rear for wakeboarding (which is a crazy amount of weight for only a 21 foot boat), you will need to have the 1235 prop on there and the open bow triangle sac full in the front (possibly on top of the integrated sac full). I would just run the 1100's 1/2 - 3/4 full for wakeboarding with and all the way full for surfing.

Hey Andrew, was just going to run ~800#'s per side for Wakeboarding. Full for surfing. But will toy with the idea of running em full if the wake looks good there. Switching out to a 1617 though for sure.

Can anyone simply say what weight should be run in the front with anywhere between 1600-2200 #'s in the rear for Wakeboarding?

[Bevan]

My set up on top of factory.. 400 wedge sacs in rear lockers, 250..ish sac on floor between flip round seat and sun pad, 370 tube sac in walkway, 725 bow sac under front seats that only fills to 60 - 75% capacity, 2 x Tsunami pumps to fill and empty and 1235 prop. Add 4 - 6 peeps and the wake is mackin!!! The hard tanks and gauges give me the flexibilty to run factory only ballast or anywhere between empty and full for beginner/intermediate level riders. It's just as quick to add the addditional ballast with the Tsunamis and there is less wear on the factory pump impellors. Will be adding a 3rd Tsunami this summer so will be even quicker

[HS]

I don't have a specific answer except that I think overall, you are looking for a 60% rear and 40% front weight distribution overall. I haven't studied everybody's setups to be able to state that is what they are doing, though. . .

I hope this helps -- Some time ago I was doing what you are doing now on planning for a ballast project (old boat, not my current 210) and I had found the stock ballast tank weights on a boat test / review site and it listed the F/R ballast tank weights showing how the ~900 lbs of stock ballast in the 210 is distributed (is it 906 lbs?). I think I've got it written down somewhere but just can't locate it now --- but as I recall its roughly 60/40 --- so if the Nautique designers have it right (and I would imagine they do) I would think that increasing the weight along the same proportionate split of 60/40 is a good guide. Subject to observation listed above about weight in the nose, etc.

The total ballast weight as applied among those on this board varies, and there isn't "one recipe" at least that I have found, anyways.

So if you're going 1,600 lbs rear, you could try 1,000 front and you'd have 60/40 (1,600 / 2,600 = 61.5%). Or you could take 1,600 / .6 = to get the total weight of 2,666.

Looking for feedback from others on how their setups compare to the 60/40 ratio. You might also be interested in finding out how they setup boats for pro tournaments if you want to dial in on that -- but know that your riding speed will be a big factor b/c of "crumble". Crumble is where the wake out behind the boat where the rider is begins to lose its clean shape and form and gets washy. A heavily weighted boat would see crumble at 60' if its going less than 20, for example. No good for a rider on a 70' line. But it will clean up at 22 - 23 with the same weight. So your speed and the length of your tow line will figure into this, too.

Good luck with the process.

[Clibka]

I don't have a specific answer except that I think overall, you are looking for a 60% rear and 40% front weight distribution overall. I haven't studied everybody's setups to be able to state that is what they are doing, though. . .

I hope this helps -- Some time ago I was doing what you are doing now on planning for a ballast project (old boat, not my current 210) and I had found the stock ballast tank weights on a boat test / review site and it listed the F/R ballast tank weights showing how the ~900 lbs of stock ballast in the 210 is distributed (is it 906 lbs?). I think I've got it written down somewhere but just can't locate it now --- but as I recall its roughly 60/40 --- so if the Nautique designers have it right (and I would imagine they do) I would think that increasing the weight along the same proportionate split of 60/40 is a good guide. Subject to observation listed above about weight in the nose, etc.

The total ballast weight as applied among those on this board varies, and there isn't "one recipe" at least that I have found, anyways.

So if you're going 1,600 lbs rear, you could try 1,000 front and you'd have 60/40 (1,600 / 2,600 = 61.5%). Or you could take 1,600 / .6 = to get the total weight of 2,666.

Looking for feedback from others on how their setups compare to the 60/40 ratio. You might also be interested in finding out how they setup boats for pro tournaments if you want to dial in on that -- but know that your riding speed will be a big factor b/c of "crumble". Crumble is where the wake out behind the boat where the rider is begins to lose its clean shape and form and gets washy. A heavily weighted boat would see crumble at 60' if its going less than 20, for example. No good for a rider on a 70' line. But it will clean up at 22 - 23 with the same weight. So your speed and the length of your tow line will figure into this, too.

Good luck with the process.

What an awesome write up.

[Bevan]

My set up on top of factory.. 400 wedge sacs in rear lockers, 250..ish sac on floor between flip round seat and sun pad, 370 tube sac in walkway, 725 bow sac under front seats that only fills to 60 - 75% capacity, 2 x Tsunami pumps to fill and empty and 1235 prop. Add 4 - 6 peeps and the wake is mackin!!! The hard tanks and gauges give me the flexibilty to run factory only ballast or anywhere between empty and full for beginner/intermediate level riders. It's just as quick to add the addditional ballast with the Tsunamis and there is less wear on the factory pump impellors. Will be adding a 3rd Tsunami this summer so will be even quicker

A lil vid...watch in HD
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fTLZn...ature=youtu.be

[Clibka]

A lil vid...watch in HD
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fTLZn...ature=youtu.be

what line length? speed? awesome riding btw.

[Bevan]

77' @ 23.8mph. Rider is my boy.. cheers!

[patoloco]

When replacing the hard tanks and using the 1100's what is being used to reinforce the divider and how? Do you keep the existing divider etc? Any pics?

[Clibka]

When replacing the hard tanks and using the 1100's what is being used to reinforce the divider and how? Do you keep the existing divider etc? Any pics?

I second this question!?!?

[Chad52]

I have an 08 210. I removed the hard tanks and put in 750 sacs on each side. It takes two full cycles of the pumps to fill them up. I don't use any additional reinforcement for the dividers. I have ran this configuration for one full season and have no deflection in the HDPE panels. They are still perfectly straight with no inward bow. I also put 1 45lb weightt plate under each sack, just because I have them from previous weighting configs. Those hard tanks suck. If anybody knows anybody that wants some, let me know, they are just taking up space at my house.

In the front I use the Fat Sac "Arrow" sac along with the factory center tanks. I can't get in there to tell how much that this holds, but I do know that the pumps cycle twice to fill. The overflow starts about 10-20 seconds before the pump shuts off from the second fill. I also have about 300 lbs of weight in the very nose of the boat. This weight is a combination of lead weights, weight plates, and anchors. The problem with putting tooo much weight in the nose is actually coming off plane when fully loaded. If you come off to quick, with too much weight in the nose, you can submarine it. There's a fine line, and you do have to develop good technique with a loaded up boat.

So if you assume that two cycles of the pumps give's you 750 lbs... I have 750+300=1050 in the front, and (750+45)*2=1590 in the back. So that's 2640 lbs. If you add in the 3 batteries that I run (~75 lbs/ea?) then that's ~2865 lbs. That's almost dead on a 40% front / 60% rear split before passenger weight gets added.

I run the 1235 prop currently. You will get prop burn from this prop. I have, it's just in the gel-coat, so it is fixable. I'm experimenting with different methods of protecting the gelcoat under there. I had an adhesive backed aluminum plate right above the prop that worked for a bit, but the water forces eventually took it off. I'm still trying to avoid drilling/screwing or mounting anything permanent there. I may try it again with some 5200 adhesive and see if that holds. The gap between the blade and the boat is roughly 3/8". I too wish they had given more room here for a bigger prop.

If I am fully weighted and have a large crew, somebody typically has to move to the bow still to assist getting on plane. Once you get up though, the wake is nice. Not G23 nice, I'm sure, but it was pre-G awesome.

I don't think I've chimed in with anything new here, just wanted to add to what others are saying about weighting methods for the 210.

[Kylestarr]

750s in the rear, integrated 650 in the bow, piggy backed with an ACME 1617, UNBEATABLE surf and wakeboarding