Fat Sac for 200v

[NautiqueOasis]

I am interested in adding a fat sac to one of the rear side compartments on a 200V. Can anyone recommend the appropriate size of the bag to fit that area? I think barefoot international recommends a 42x16x16 (400lb) bag; anybody using a sac in the rear?

[81nautique]

Thats what we run in our 200v

[dfoster]

The 400 will probably be fine. That said, with my SV, I went with a 750. When you fill it up in the locker now on top of the hard sacs it probably only fills to 400ish. But I can pull it out and move it around and get more weight if I want. Also, I may tank bust, and then I will have a 750 to fill the area and not have to buy another set of sacs.

If you can afford the extra $50 to get a pair of 750s vs 400s, I would think about it.

While I am not big on over-weighting my boat, I have never heard anybody say that they are selling their 750s to buy a set of 400s.

[Yiger]

Right now I have a 750lbs bag on top of the hard tank in the port locker (for surfing). It makes a nice though relatively short wake. I did have to install a ball valve because the bag tended to drain through the overflow while we are running- that's inevitable as the bag sits so much higher than the drain.

Parts for my new system should arrive Monday- Here's my new plan... I'm pulling both rear hard tanks. The 750lbs sac is moving to the starboard locker, I'm putting an 1100lbs sac in the port locker and a 450lbs sac in the locker underneath the observer seat (that sac is actually for a mastercraft- it's more square in shape). Of course neither the 1100lbs or 450lbs sac will fill completely as they are both bigger than the compartments. The 450lbs sac will fill from the starboard pump via a 3 way valve hidden in the starboard locker. I'm swapping the drains of the rear sacks as well (port drains to starboard, starboard drains to port) and adding check valves. We don't wakeboard at all but our friends do- that's why I'm just moving the 750 over and not bothering to spend the money on a matching 1100. As far as my wife and I are concerned, we're strictly ski and surf. Hopefully the new sacs will lengthen the wave out a bit when it's just my wife onboard driving while I surf. I'll try to post some pics next week.

[mcinmylo]

We use 400 bags for surfing, gotten a really good wake for the size of boat, we put 400 in the rear locker, and a 400 in the nose. With 4-8 people in the boat it throws a really nice surf wake at around 10.4 MPH.
I wouldnt go bigger than a 400, the 400's fill up the rear lockers good, but you can fill them too 100%.
We have Fly High Sacs, the nautique wedge sac versions.

[4th ski-doo]

BulletLines has a special on #350 now, $54 each. They come with pumps, you can eBay or Craigslist the pumps

[Yiger]

I finally got out behind the new ballast system I mentioned in an earlier post. The wave is awesome. I really like having all of the ballast integrated and out of sight- I'm glad my wife talked me out of just throwing some bags on the seats (my 2 year-old son would have wanted to sit on them constantly I'm sure). With just 1 person on board driving, the sweet spot on the wave has moved much farther back away from the boat. The wave is now long enough to make mistakes on the board and still not wash out the back. The wave height is very nice and we've bumped the speed up to 10.3. Considering most of our surfing is with just one or two people in the boat, the project was well worth it.

NautiqueOasis, did you ever decide what size bag to add?

[NautiqueOasis]

Leaning towards the 400 on top of my hard tank. With our '05 211 we always surfed on the starboard side so even with the prop rotation on the 200v we still surf starboard. Since we store our slalom skiis in the starboard storage; putting a sac in there will not be very convenient. We may just need to bite the bullet and get comfortable with port side.

[LakeRats]

How difficult was it to remove the hard tanks from your 200v?

[Yiger]

Not too hard at all. You need to remove the seat back (5 thumb screws), the aluminum cross support (3 bolts), and the forward vertical tracks for the drop-in storage dividers (2 bolts each). Then remove the three screws holding down the forward edge of the tanks. The rear lip of the tanks is held down by slipping under a 'clamp' screwed to the deck- you shouldn't need to mess with it at all (though I did have to remove the clamp on the starboard side because it wasn't installed quite right- the port side was no problem though). Also, remove the fill/drain hose fitting before removing the tank and disconnect the tank sensor wires. The entire job including reassembling all the pieces you've removed will take under an hour.

If you replace them with soft tanks (or even if you piggyback) it's really worth reinforcing the dividers. There are several threads about doing that on this website already.