Compound/buffing question

[BWB-745-]

I used 3m Marine Compound yesterday and got almost all the oxidation off the hull but I can still see where the Super Sport Nautique decals were. Is this something that's going to come off or fade away more when I polish?

Don't get me wrong its MUCH less noticeable than before but I can still tell where they were. Should I use the compound one more time before moving on to the polish?

Thanks

[Brichter14]

I would put some goof off on a clean towel and rub that in then compound/polish/wax. Wont notice a bit.

[BWB-745-]

I guess I could have explained better.

The gel that was previously covered by the decals has more shine than the rest.

Should I continue to compound to get an even color or move on to the polish to bring the rest of the gel to match the newly uncovered gel.

[lucky7t]

If experienced enough I would hit it with some wet 2000 paper and then buff. It will knock out those ghost letters

[BWB-745-]

If experienced enough I would hit it with some wet 2000 paper and then buff. It will knock out those ghost letters

I don't know what "wet 2000 paper" is so I guess that would rate my experience level.


If it's sandpaper I don't know how comfortable I'd be rubbing it on the hull

[Brichter14]

It is 2000 grit sandpaper that you get wet then use. It woukd be impossible to hurt your gel with it. It will leave ghost marks but after some polish and wax you would have a nice shine.

[BWB-745-]

Do I use a normal buffer? Or just hand sand it all?

[beach]

Hand sand. You don't want to sand through the gelcoat.

[lucky7t]

At your local oriellys you can find a soft pad to wrap the paper around. It acts like a block. You won't need much pressure

[s_kelley2000]

If you are still seeing the ghosting of the old letters now then unfortunately they will still be present after polishing so I would hold off on that step. Compounding again may get them out. Do you know what "level" of the 3M compound you used? I think the Super Duty is the grittiest one they offer. If you are uncomfortable with wet sanding then I would give a heavy cut compound a try and see if that will get things back to the same color as the glass that was previously covered by decals. What color boat is it? Got any pics so we can see what you are dealing with?

[shag]

The super duty compound should have enough 'grit' to get the ghosting out.

[BWB-745-]

If you are still seeing the ghosting of the old letters now then unfortunately they will still be present after polishing so I would hold off on that step. Compounding again may get them out. Do you know what "level" of the 3M compound you used? I think the Super Duty is the grittiest one they offer. If you are uncomfortable with wet sanding then I would give a heavy cut compound a try and see if that will get things back to the same color as the glass that was previously covered by decals. What color boat is it? Got any pics so we can see what you are dealing with?

I tried taking pictures but its pretty faint and my Iphone is old as dirt so they really don't show very well.

I'll try a grittier compound and give it another shot this weekend. I'll get some pictures up after, also need to get an overspray area cleaned up from painting the windshield frame.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions

[pe4me]

Anything with "grit" and enough elbow grease will remove material and eventually either burn or remove enough oxidation. IMHO, 2000 grit wet sand would be similar to an aggressive compound. Wet sanding speeds up the process: the lower the grit the faster the action gets to unexposed gel the quicker the job gets done...depending. If ghosting is an entire decal, you areas with over spray, + you have small scratches and blemishes here and there you may I would suggest:
- pick up quality paper in 2000, 1000, 800 and 600 if you had any deeper scratches
- rubbing compound (less aggressive), polish (if compound isn't pleasing YOUR eye) and your favorite wax
- get a rubber sanding block 4" x 6" or so
- case of beer
1. find a place on the transom (less obvious place) and rub with the 2000 and see the results, go to 1000 if it isnt cutting to scratch/paint/ghosting.
2. Keep the paper wet and wipe area after application to see progress. Go to depth where gel is uniform in color. Go a bit beyond affected areas to blend and watch out. You may find you have to do the complete boat as I found when I cleaned one area it accentuated the faded in the adjacent areas. Use the block in big areas and hand/fingers on scratches smalls spots. In the end, the gel was soft, smooth and incredibly like new compared to the neglected areas.
3. Work backwards to 2000, ie if you go down to 300 (I did on my project) go to 5, then 800 to 1000 and then to the compound/polish/wax
4. Realize it is unnerving to do this to a finish, but it is COMPLETELY worth it and amazing what gel can do even when 10+ years old. Any scratch/swirl mark you make with any sand paper WILL come out.
5. The results never vary, take your time, and you can make gel look near new.

You see/smell the gel coming off with wet sanding, exercise some common sense and you can start to see how much pressure/work is required to get desirable result. Gel is pretty forgiving, whether you have light oxidation or deep scratches the eyes sores can be made to disappear...even if by a shade tree mechanic.

My new to me 06 SAN came complete with some dock rash and trailer blems that came out in one evening.

I happened to have a neighbor who worked for Carver (Marquis) Yacht and was flown around the world to repair dummy marks. He laughed at my project; fading, gouges, scratches to the glass, dock smashes, rub rail rot and everything else. Anyway, go for it, take your time, enjoy the results and put the money saved toward gas-

[BWB-745-]

Thanks for the detailed post, I'll pick up some 2000, more compound, polish, and wax and see what I can get done this weekend.