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Then I am pretty sure the sMe theory applies, fill them all and go. I know without the extra bow weight and extra 400 in each rear locker we had favor surf side weighting a little. This should not be an issue with extra bow weight.
The 2012 / 2013 210's with NSS like a little more weight in the port locker and side than the starboard. If your switching side to side, a very slight lean to the port side will make a great wave on both sides... If your just surfing port side, fill all tanks and add an extra 500 lbs to the port locker and side and your wave will be insane! Same rule applies to just surfing starboard. NSS was usually run around 3 for port, and 2 for starboard. Speed at 10.5 and fine tune with the Hydrogate.
I have both straight line 750s and fly high 400s which ones should I install for extra ballast on my 2013 210? I have a ibs as well that is being put in.
It sounds like the 750's fit but it has to be a tight squeeze. They are 4" taller and wider and 8" longer than the 400's I have in mine and mine seems full. If you have the 750's why not use those.
I have 750s plumbed in on top of the stock ballast in the rear compartments and the u-shaped bow sack plumbed in under the front seats. Surfing (with NSS) or wakeboarding doesn't matter. Just fill them all as full as they will go. A slight lean to the port side for surfing is needed. I do this with a few pop bags. The wake is really really good.
Filled all stock up , nss at 4 hydro gate all the way back and could of surfed across the entire lake. I got a crick in my neck I surfed so long lol..
With stock ballast it looks like about 300 lb extra ballast. I'll agree with everyone that it favors the starboard side. I added 100 pounds of weight to port side and it cleaned up
Current Correct Craft Boat
[URL="http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/05/1e6128564805861d2625d7b7f8efd2f1.jpg"]2015 SANTE 210[/URL]
We just empty a little out of the starboard side instead of adding hard weight or an extra sac. That gets you the slight lean you need. People weight will work too.
Mines a 2012 210, I pulled the hard tanks (~278 each) in the back and put in 750's (more weight still have storage when full and it makes maintenance a breeze), with the 750's full and the belly tank (350) full plus 300 lbs of bomb sacks under the seats up front with an average size driver at the helm (maybe what 160- 175?) and 200lbs of bomb sacks on the rear port seat and 3 women (No guesses on weight since I want to live) on the port side at ~10.3 with the NSS on 1-2 a 300lb dude on a Hyperlite Landlock can drop the handle and ride. The lower the number on the NSS the better for me on the port side. I like adding extra weight over draining since with the NSS the extra weight on the plate side seems to make it more effective.
When we have someone who wants to transfer from side to side I still need that 200 lbs on the port seat or at least 100 of it plus the other 100 on the floor, although I have a bit more driver weight to offset than most. The goofy wave seems to like a higher setting on the NSS and a little more speed but for transferring a rider I might start at 10.4 at 2 with the passengers mostly to the riders side and as soon as the rider signals to transfer they start to slide over as the boat transfers.
2012 Super Air Nautique 210 Byerly Icon Edition EX343 <-- Current Boat 2007 Reinell 185 BR Volvo Penta 4.3GL <-- Former Boat
1988 Bayliner 195 Capri OMC Cobra 5.0 <-- Former "starter" Boat
The LINC does not really show how full they are. It shows how full they are based on full and drain time which is out the door once you add extra sacs. That's the crappy part about times full instead of float measured full. If you have everything included piggy back full then start draining piggy back LINC shows stock tanks emptying. Sucks because you never know when everything is empty which is how I collapsed a hard tank.
Yep once you add extra ballast, be it piggy back or bigger bags in place of the hard tanks the system levels go out the window. They were never accurate in the first place, if you get an obstruction in one of the lines or the impeller is starting to go or there is a bit of an air leak or someone shuts off the valve at the through hull the system still reports that its filling/filled when that isn't the case. Or when the impellers are starting to go it shows it as empty when you still have a 1/4 tank of water sitting there.
The worst thing is there are sensors in the tank, it just only uses them when you first turn the power on so it knows the current level then it uses the timer from that point on. So even with the sensors disconnected with the tanks pulled using bags the levels are nearly as "accurate" as they were before and it still shows them filling or emptying as it did before. I only loose the ability to know if there is water in them on start up but since I can tell if the bags still have water in them easily when emptying by just looking I don't really have that problem.
2012 Super Air Nautique 210 Byerly Icon Edition EX343 <-- Current Boat 2007 Reinell 185 BR Volvo Penta 4.3GL <-- Former Boat
1988 Bayliner 195 Capri OMC Cobra 5.0 <-- Former "starter" Boat
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