Break In Period

[wakeany1]

I am about to get delivery on my 2014 210. This is not my first nautique but my first out of the factory nautique. What does anyone suggest for a break in period and at what pattern?

Thanks,

Dustin

[PKKup]

I've posted about this before and I think that I'm the minority in this one. Most people say to load it up and have fun! I do the first 5 hours like the manual says. I think it's one min wide open then 30 min 2800-3000 rpms, usually 3-4 times in first five hours. After the five hours I I drive it mostly like I normally would, just not staying full throttle too long. My opinion it can't hurt either way. My marina is big on not changing the oil at 25hrs. They feel it helps the break-in. Not sure if I agree, but I'm going along with it. Maybe change it around 50hrs.
The bot is awesome!! Enjoy!

[dttheel]

I bought a new 2013 210 this spring. My dealer advised the same as PKKup. Follow the procedures recommeded by Correct Craft for the first 5 hours. Basically, get it warmed up, don't stay at the same throttle position for long, run it wide open for about a minute and then throttle back to a comfortable throttle position. They do recommend the oil change at 25 hours though, along with fuel filter change at the 25 hour service level.

[PKKup]

I agree with the 25hr. Why do you think they are so against it? They say it seats the rings better.

I bought a new 2013 210 this spring. My dealer advised the same as PKKup. Follow the procedures recommeded by Correct Craft for the first 5 hours. Basically, get it warmed up, don't stay at the same throttle position for long, run it wide open for about a minute and then throttle back to a comfortable throttle position. They do recommend the oil change at 25 hours though, along with fuel filter change at the 25 hour service level.

[DanielC]

There is a lot of wear on the engine internal parts during the break in period, as parts mate to each other, primarly the rings to cylinder walls. That releases a lot of extra metal into the oil, and you really do want to get it out of the engine. Change the oil at 25 hours, or sooner. Change it again at 50 hours, and then you can go the 50 hours between oil changes, or at the end of each boating season.

Accelerate WOT to max rpm, then close the throttle completely, down to an idle. Then cruise around, part throttle, for a a few minuites, stop, and another full throttle burst, back to idle, and cruise again. Do this a lot, especially at first.

WOT forces the rings against the cylinder walls, making then seat better. The closing of the throttle draws extra oil in to the cylinders because of the high vacuum, and the extra oil washes loose particles of metal off the cylinder walls.

Because of the tightness (close tolerances) of the new engine, it will tend to run hotter, internally. It is especially important you do not build any extra heat in the engine. NO ballast weight at first. Light duty cruising. Do not operate at plowing speeds, go fast enought that the boat planes out. Do not idle for long periods of time.

[wakeany1]

Thank you so much guys!! I really appreciate it! Just got the call the boat is at customs and will be delivered tomorrow!! just in time for Canada day Long weekend! Have a good one!

[DLafont]

Thank you so much guys!! I really appreciate it! Just got the call the boat is at customs and will be delivered tomorrow!! just in time for Canada day Long weekend! Have a good one!

Not sure where in our great ole land your are, but they're calling for great weather aroung my parts!! Enjoy the new boat smell!!

[JoeA]

I have a question about break in period.

When I had my Malibu I "think" they said no ballast for the first 10 hours. I read through the PCM manual the other night and did not see any restrictions on this. Is it ok to load up the boat with ballast? Do i need to wait a certain number of hours before I can add ballast to the boat?

I have not taken delivery yet but getting excited and starting to think about this type of stuff.

[KTM525]

Hmm.. most of the "older" Malibus weight less with full ballast then your G23 with empty ballast ;-). Just do the 5h break in like DanielC has written in his post.. its not that important anymore, but on the other hand..

[xrichard]

If the idea is to load it up to force the rings against the cylinder walls as DanielC says (...and this is a proven strategy...), then it's best to do it with as heavy a load as possible. Which means full ballast.

[DanielC]

Not exactly. New engines run hot, because clearances are tight. New engine, or old they can both be damaged by overheating, not only the whole engine but
individual parts. Running with ballast increases the CONSTANT load. The engine, and its parts never get a chance to cool down.

Yes, you need WOT to seat the rings. That is followed by returning back to idle. This creats a higher than normal vacuum in the cylinder, sucking more oil into the combustion chamber, and the excess oil helps wash metal wear particles into the oil, and they are caught by the fliter.

It is possible for pistons to run too hot, in a new engine, because of the tight clearance, and a marine engine especially withan unlimited supply of cool water will not over heat. But parts in the engine can overheat. The hot piston expands even more, and gets even tighter, and that can actually lead to the pistons siezing in the bore.

Run a new engine with as light as a load as possible, including brief runs to max RPM, but do not hold max RPM. Or let heat build up in the engine.