1979 Ski Tique Resto-Mod (Purist Need Not Apply)

**LFEngineering** · 10-28-2014, 08:58 AM

Trailer Rehab Part 1

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**LFEngineering** · 10-28-2014, 09:02 AM

Trailer Rehab Part 2

Admittedly the fenders are a little high. I had mounted them back in the original position before swapping out the drop axle. It will be fixed by spring.

As for the loading light, it's hands down my favorite feature. The boat get's trailered home every night so loading after dark is a weekly occurrence. The light is wired to a 2nd trailer plug so I just leave on my parking lights and swap plugs to light the trailer for backing-up and loading.

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**LFEngineering** · 10-28-2014, 09:05 AM

Swim Platform Overhaul:

The platform that came on the teak was completely busted. Thankfully the one from the Nautique was in decent shape. Unfortunately somebody decided it was a good idea to Poly over the teak so I had to disassemble the platform and sand each and every piece. Once sanded a coat of Watco teak oil brought it back to life.

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**LFEngineering** · 10-28-2014, 09:15 AM

Heart & Soul Part 1:

The Tique's orignal 302 ran, but had a cracked block, thankfully the 351 from the Nautique was winterized before the tree hit it so it's in good shape.

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**LFEngineering** · 10-28-2014, 09:16 AM

Heart & Soul Part 2:

The 351w got a little TLC before being winterized this year. The once-over included a tune up, new belts & hoses, new water strainer, water pump rebuild & a fresh coat of paint.

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**LFEngineering** · 10-28-2014, 09:21 AM

Floor Removal Part 1:

Something tells me the; great stuff, pressure treated lumber and deck screws aren't orignal.

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**Quinner** · 10-28-2014, 09:36 AM

Pylon was in backwards and those stringers are a mess, lol. Does the prop clear that prop guard? Looks pretty shallow particularly if you change up to a bigger wheel.

Good Luck with the Project

**Snowman2001** · 10-28-2014, 10:11 AM

Main thing is u will be out on the water. Don't cut costs on the safety. Do it right and fun.

**LFEngineering** · 10-28-2014, 10:23 AM

Floor Repair - My Turn:

As an engineer I have the uncontrollable urge to try to make everything better.

The wood encased with fiberglass plan works great, until somebody screws the floor panels or seats down without sealing the screws. Once water gets in, it can't get out. Fast forward 25 years and every one of these boats is rotting out from the inside.

My design utilizes extra horizontal stringers with drop-in floor panels. The framework will be encased in fiberglass and care will be taken to minimize any penetrations into the structure. Features like seats & accessories will be mounted directly to the floor panels instead of the stringers. Only the rudder cable mount and engine cradle will be mounted directly to the stringers and great care will be taken to seal them.

To keep everything in line I used a laser level mounted in the pylon hole to establish my floor datum. that way even if the boat moved around the reference point would always be consistent.

And of course once the floor was mocked up I had to "test" fit the motor... you know, to make sure it fit.

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**LFEngineering** · 10-28-2014, 10:25 AM

After the stringers were cut and fit they were removed and sealed with 2 coats of resin. When installed each cavity was filled with hull & deck putty to bed the stringers. I then ground the mating surfaces with a 24 grit disk and plan on applying 2 layers of mat and 1 layer of 45 degree bi-axis cloth.

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**LFEngineering** · 10-28-2014, 10:30 AM

You know I never noticed the pylon until you mentioned it.

As for the prop guard it clears by an inch or so. If I get a bigger prop in the future I'll just modify the guard, it's nice having a fab shop in the garage.