Fake-A-Lake Alternatives

[Findley]

I own a used 1990 SN which has this on the transom:

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=6000701

How is this supposed to connect to my cooling system? Currently this just goes into a hose that sits in the bilge and there is no connection or open "T" fitting on my water strainer or anywhere else to hook this up to.

Thanks in advance,
Findley

[Flux]

RE: Fake-A-Lake Alternatives

Ummmmm.....

By adding one of these???:

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=DP7

That one is all automatic, pretty nice. I have a simple PVC T right before the strainer and after the intake, with a garden hose fitting with a plug in it. My Raw water intake has a seacock valve though. So to flush, I close the seacock, remove the plug and add the garden hose. Works nicely.

[ST]

If anyone is looking for something cheaper than fake-a-lake, try this:

Get the "Quicksilver outboard engine flush kit". I saw it here...

http://marineengineparts.com/shopsit...l/page217.html

... for $13.95 but I already had one that came with my old I/O. Pull the extra cup off, remove the metal spring clip thing, and throw the cup away. Pull the rod out of the remaining cup, attach the spring clip to the cup, and reinsert the rod. Bend the end of the rod to an angle slightly greater than 90-degrees (a propane torch might help). Now, for $14 and literally two minutes of work, you have the exact same thing I saw at Boater's World for sale at somewhere over $50.

To use, just insert the rod into the grille on your intake, twist 90 degrees (so it hooks on the grille), and tighten it up.

[JAG]

Fresh Water Flush

Take a look at this setup in my 90 Sport Nautique. Brass, nylon fiitings, and misc parts from West Marine cost about $30. Your transom hose connection would connect directly to the 3way valve where you see the hose connected to.

[Findley]

RE: Fresh Water Flush

Am I correct in understanding that your raw water comes in from the left side of the picture (port side of boat)through that white can (what is that?) and then through the yellow handled valve which will either direct hose water or white can water to your seawater strainer?

Thanks,
F

[JAG]

RE: Fresh Water Flush

The white thing is the top of the raw water strainer which discharges through the 90s up and over to the 3 way valve. The 3way valve then can direct water either from the sea water strainer or the from the garden hose connection, then down to the transmision oil cooler on its way to the raw water pump. I only used the y/valve hose connector because my single hose connector/valve was broken. However, that's where you would hook your line from your transom connection too. This set up works great but it was installed before the auto check valve from skidim.com was available. The check valve would replace the 3way valve.
Most parts can be bought at West Marine and some at Home Depot
Parts I used where:
2-nylon 90s,
1-nylon threaded nipple,
1-3way valve,
1-brass threaded 90,
1-brass threaded nipple,
1-pvc pipe thread to hose connection adapter nipple,
1-brass male to male hose adapter,
misc clamps

More pictures are available in a album under my name

[inboardsonly]

Having installed a few flush kits in boats, the most important thing for anyone is to keep it simple!
The most basic is a T fitting, with hose barb on each side, and a male garden hose fitting in the center. Cap it off. When it is time to flush,
then a female/female swivel connect or a ball valve with male / female
GHT garden hose threads attaches. No need to worry about pressure building in the system, because it just goes out the inlet at idle, or when shut off.

I currently have the transom mount flush attachment, but used the PERKO one with the male threads on it. The other one is too ugly.

I then have an adapter with ball valve on it to attach when it is time to flush. This is too prevent pressure from building, there is nowhere for the water to go with the Perko unit, except through the block, but if the water cant pass by the impeller, you could blow a seal in the raw water pump...
60 psi hose pressure. And those Sherwood seals are a PITA to change.

I've had a few calls from "friends" at 6 am that have fried an impeller because they forgot to turn a valve, or can't read a three way valve or get confused by two two way valves.

It's best when you can make the hose connection from the transom.
Engine cover stays down, the gear can stay in the boat, and nothing gets
caught in the belts, or burnt on the manifolds....

JMHO

[ST]

JAG,

That Y-connector could actually be a good thing. If I were you, I'd hook up another hose to the other side of the Y so that when you turn the water on, you don't get pressure in the system and run into the problems that inboardsonly mentioned. The water would just flow into the Y and out the other hose (onto your lawn or whatever) until the engine started sucking.