Winterizing

[Rhode]

A non-tuner friend and I have been exchanging notes this week on how best to winterize our 210s. We would greatly appreciate hearing from any of you who have oppinions about what constitutes as a Cadilac Job.

Thanking you in advance.

[NautiqueJeff]

RE: Winterizing

Click

[Separator]

RE: Winterizing

You must be a gamblin man.

Nice thing about doing your own winterizing is it is the gift that gives in the spring time when you find out ya screwed up. Engine, Ballast Tanks and Pumps........Last I heard regular boat insurance wont cover a frozen block or ballast tanks or pumps from negligent winterizing practices. At least my dealer has insurance to cover a mistake on my boat.

Can you say Big $$$$$$$$$$$$ Mistake.

[SGY]

RE: Winterizing

Other side of that coin: Almost everytime I take my boat into a mechanic, something comes back screwed up. The last time was the kicker. I didn't have time to change to oil. So, into the mechanic (non CC dealer) it went. When I got it back the back seat was taken apart--why, they didn't know. Also, the rub rail was smashed on the rear port corner of my boat. How did that happen. Response: "Not us." They just don't care for the boat like I do. Also, how hard is it to stabilize the fuel, fog the motor, drain the block, shower, heater, and change the oil. I may even pour in the antifreeze like CC/PCM suggests. Not worth the $200 clams in my opinion.

On the subject of antifreeze, the PCM manual suggests I can just pull off the main hose and pour the antifreeze mix right into the block and bypass the thermostat. Any more info on this? Is it that easy--so I don't have to worry about starting my motor again and then draining the block again.

[efox]

If you are "filling" the block with antifreeze, you should not drain it. Antifreeze will not freeze until it is way colder than any ski boat will see, plus it has anticorrosion properties which are valuable.

Eric

[Separator]

If you are "filling" the block with antifreeze, you should not drain it. Antifreeze will not freeze until it is way colder than any ski boat will see, plus it has anticorrosion properties which are valuable.

Eric

How long will it take for a block to rust out ?

What do you do with the anti freeze when you are done with it?

[Separator]

If you are "filling" the block with antifreeze, you should not drain it.

I just noticed you wrote "not to drain the block".....That sounds like a block cracking already....Reason is you dont know how much antifreeze got mixed if any with the current block water.

I would not take the above advice...Drain the block.

[Separator]

Winterizing

Other side of that coin: Almost everytime I take my boat into a mechanic, something comes back screwed up. The last time was the kicker. I didn't have time to change to oil. So, into the mechanic (non CC dealer) it went. When I got it back the back seat was taken apart--why, they didn't know. Also, the rub rail was smashed on the rear port corner of my boat. How did that happen. Response: "Not us." They just don't care for the boat like I do. Also, how hard is it to stabilize the fuel, fog the motor, drain the block, shower, heater, and change the oil. I may even pour in the antifreeze like CC/PCM suggests. Not worth the $200 clams in my opinion.

Wow.....Sounds like you went to the wrong type of dealer.
That's why I go to a CC dealer with my $50K boat. They treat my boat like its $50K.

Not saying it's hard to winterize until ya screw it up and it cost you pile of $$$$$. Its kind of hard to to kick yourself in the A**

[efox]

RE: Winterizing

No, you fill a 5 gallon bucket with RV antifreeze and suck it up from the hose before the trans cooler. 5 gallons is more than enough, and if it mixes with h20 that's fine. Some studies say it's more effective that way. In the spring, run it on a hose to get the fluid out and go. Take that advice to the bank.

[CHassmann]

Re: RE: Winterizing

What's this talk about "gamblin man"? Guys, winterizing is not that hard. Just take your time and don't forget any steps. Yes, you can fill the 5 gallon bucket and suck it up, but you really should drain your block first. The RV antifreeze is guaranteed to 50 below but not if you dilute it with water.

Many many years ago, we had a Chrysler straignt 6 that my dad would drain the water out of and never put antifreeze in. Never had a problem for 17 years. We've now had a Ski Nautique for 18 years and have never had a problem after winterizing ourselves every year.

[Separator]

Re: RE: Winterizing

No, you fill a 5 gallon bucket with RV antifreeze and suck it up from the hose before the trans cooler. 5 gallons is more than enough, and if it mixes with h20 that's fine. Some studies say it's more effective that way. In the spring, run it on a hose to get the fluid out and go. Take that advice to the bank.

Thanks but I'll pass on your advice.....There have been many a frozen blocks by doing it the way you advise. You always drain the block and hoses.

[SGY]

RE: Re: RE: Winterizing

Guys, here's what I'm saying. Drain the block and then pour the antifreeze into the block through the main pump. If you suck up the antifreeze, you have to make sure the engine is up to temp and the T-stat is open to get the AV into the block. Otherwise, it goes through your exhaust and out the back. I don't like idleing my engine that long.

I agree with draining the block first because you don't want to dilute the antifreeze beyond its protection threshold. Get as much water out as you can and then pour the antifreeze in through the circulation pump hose that is attached to the T-stat housing.

I understand that most antifreeze is better when mixed with water--but not marine antifreeze. This I'm not sure of though. I'll read the directions and buy the enviromentally friendly stuff.

BTW, CC has not been kind enough to have a Colorado dealer. But that's a different story. The dealer it went to is a well known MC/Bu dealer.

Finally, most dealers I know would disclaim any liability for their own negligence and then you are in for a fight--which costs time and money. If you can do it yourself, then why not save the hassle, money, and risk of some bonehead (who hasn't paid the money for the boat) jacking your boat up.

[bkhallpass]

Re: RE: Re: RE: Winterizing

BTW, CC has not been kind enough to have a Colorado dealer. But that's a different story. The dealer it went to is a well known MC/Bu dealer.

Threadjack - with so few lakes in CO, I'm surprised any comp boat
dealer can stay in business there. I was once taken to some
small resevoire outside Denver and was pretty disappointed how
crowded the place was. Really funny thing was that most of the
boats seemed to be small motor yachts. Why would you want a motor
yacht when you can't go anywhere? Seems like you'd really have
to get up early in the morning to get any good runs in CO. End of threadjack.

BKH

[SGY]

Winterizing

BKH, you need to spend more time in Colorado. Sure the public lakes suck. But there are literally dozens of small private lakes on the front range. These all host ski clubs that need nice inboards and v-drives. The private lakes generate the customer base for inboards not the the small and crowded public lakes. The latter are for Bayliners and SeaRays. Next time you fly into DIA, take a look out your window. As you fly in, you'll be astounded at the number of small sand pits that are now being used for waterskiing. Also, we have a few larger lakes to the south in Pueblo and to the north just inside Wyoming.

I was told by the guys at Taylor Boats in Salt Lak City, Utah that they salivate over the number of inboard customers that the Denver area has. I've also been told that there are more water skiers in Colorado--per capita than anywhere else in Colorado. Not sure if that's true but Tommy's sure does well selling Malibu and S&W is still alive and well selling Mastercraft and Centurian. The Tige' dealer is also running strong. Its not a customer based problem, its a CC problem. They can't keep a dealer here--having failed miserably the last two times they've tried. Nobody wants CC now--because of the negative history and because CC insists that the dealer buy a bunch of inventory--taking a huge risk on boats that have very little margain of profit and with no time to generate a consumer base for CC boats.

As you can probably tell, its a sore point for me. CC needs to get off their duff and get someone in the Colorado area and give that business time to flourish and generate a loyal following.

[efox]

RE: Winterizing

Seperator...whatever you like. You should be doing this at the same time you are winterizing the motor...so it would be up to temp and pushing antifreeze through the thermostat. Obviously I will not convince you otherwise. But after many years of doing it myself for about $50, I am way ahead of those who have paid $200 to have it done. As was also pointed out, don't believe that just because the "dealer" did your work that this constitutes any kind of guarantee. If you believe that you haven't dealt with many dealers.

BTW, metal rusts very quickly once you have removed the water. I would recommend filling the block with RV antifreeze no matter how you go about this task.