GT-40 FCC

[todda]

Just a question for anyone out there: on the GT-40's Fuel Control Cell, is there anything that requires regular maintenance, like drain it, or change anything out (like on our old Brendella that had a fuel/water separator)? Is there any sort of filter in there that needs to be changed regularly?

Thanks!
Todd

[GRskinautique]

RE: GT-40 FCC

Todd
The fuel control cell does have a filter in it. It is recommended that it be changed annually. I changed mine for the first time in the fall. The filter costs about $30. There are directions right on the fuel control cell for changing it. Just be aware, it is very difficult to remove the canister. My recommendation is to take 2 oil filter wrenches and use them at the same time. Thats how I got mine to break free. Also note the cell has a drain on the bottom which you should drain before you open it up.

[todda]

Thanks GRski, I appreciate it!

Todd

[MHayes]

GRskinautique,

Did you have to go to the dealer to find a filter for the fuel control cell or where you able to find it elsewhere?

todda, I know that the manual also states that you should unscrew the drain plug when winterizing to check if water has entered into the fuel system.

[NCH2oSki]

Ski-dim sells them. I beleive you can still get a discount for belonging to Planet Natique. Good luck I still cant get mine off. I even bent 2 oil filter wrenches.

[G-man]

Auto Zone sells a strap oil wrench where the strap is the width and material of a seatbelt. You then attach it to a 1/2 socket wrench. I highly recommend it. It still won't be easy but it should work.

[todda]

Thanks guys. And yeah, MHayes, I need to unscrew that to drain the water, I just haven't yet being a bit leary if the whole system is under pressure. I wasn't sure once the pressure was (if) released, if there was a way to prime it back up again? Thanks G-Man too about the tip on the filter wrench, I will try that.

[skinautique]

don't take the screw out of the bottom. lay some towels in the bilge and take an oil filter wrench to remove the canister. then you can drain the FCC. Change the filter and the o-ring up in the housing. grease the o ring and the threads on the canister. you also want to trim off the ends of the tabs on the bottom of the filter. they have been known to snag a wire in there and cause the pumps to not work. to prime it, turn the key to the accessory position a couple of times. make sure that you are hearing the fuel pump spool up.

[todda]

Thanks skinautique! I appreciate all the info-

todd

[dave210]

has anyoe seen this filter dirty all the trash from the tank collects in the low pressure fuel pump screen

[dave210]

why waste 30 dollars

[DanielC]

I Have a 1997 Ski with 1595 hours on it, and take care of a 1998 Ski that my church owns, with 1100 hours on it. I have changed the filter in both boats. It is a PCM# RP080026 filter kit, it includes the filter, and a new O-Ring. I remove the plug on the bottom of the FCC and drain the fuel into a container, and look for water, and dirt. If I find a lot of dirt, the filter gets changed. On both boats, the fitting on top of the FCC started to seep a minor amount of gas around 900 hours, watch for this also. If this is happening, this needs to be repaired. One hose on the outside of the FCC goes straight back to the top of the fuel tank, so there is not really any pressure in the FCC. There should be about 39 PSI, when the engine is running, on the injector rails, although. Get a good oil filter wrench to remove the canister, sometimes they are really tight. one time I had to brace the bottom of the canister with my foot while trying to get it to turn, without twisting the mounting bracket.

[todda]

Thanks Daniel, I plan on doing just that. Thanks too for the PCM part #, I found it as well on skidim.
Another upcoming weekend project, but at least it is under the engine hood of a CC!
Todd

[wakejunky]

Worst case scenario for getting the canister removed from the base.
1.) Remove the fuel lines from the top of the canister
2.) Disconnect the electrical connection
3.) Remove the 9/16 bolts which hold the canister to the bracket
4.) Remove the canister and base from the boat
5.) Tip the canister over and drain fuel into container.
6.) Put the canister assembly into a bench vise
7.) Remove canister from base - either by - oil filter wrenches as described above
- put to long bolts into canister top and then a long pry bar between the bolts and then
unscrew the top from the canister.

Having the canister assembly out of the boat is a little less messy with the fuel draining into the bilge as well as getting the o-ring out of the base.


Chris

[cat1168]

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RP080026

fuel filter