Good inline ballast pump?

[brit_hunsicker]

Well I have my 98' Air Nautique completely torn apart at the not so perfect time of the year for some last minute upgrades before summer hits. As I'm sure many of you know, and are not too fond of the ballast systems on this era of Nautiques, I am redesigning my ballast system to fill from the top and empty from the bottom like it should be. I won't go into details on how I am routing the lines, but what I am interested in is some opinions on kick *** pumps. I'm looking for one direction aerator pumps. I will have one pump to fill both tanks and one pump to empty both tanks. For filling the pump will run into a tee and then into each tank. I am after 1000 to 2000 gph pump. Preferably 1500 plus. Let me know on what you guys have found to be the best working pumps for the money! Thanks!

[MLA]

ive used the Johnson 1600 Pro Series for filling. Rather than a single pump for draining, I would consider a dedicated 1100 for each tank. Aerator pumps dont draw, so having a drain pump thats located remotely between to tanks, could be a priming issue, unless the pump is located below the level of the tanks with a straight shot to it with each hose.

[brit_hunsicker]

I don't think I will have a problem with the empty pump sucking air. The lines will come off the bottom of the tank and go into a tee and then into the pump. I will make sure to keep the pump as low as possible. Plus the tanks will always be open to air through the overflow ports so hopefully I shouldn't have any issues.

[brit_hunsicker]

ive used the Johnson 1600 Pro Series for filling. Rather than a single pump for draining, I would consider a dedicated 1100 for each tank. Aerator pumps dont draw, so having a drain pump thats located remotely between to tanks, could be a priming issue, unless the pump is located below the level of the tanks with a straight shot to it with each hose.

Can you link the pump you used? I'm interested in this pump
http://www.starmarinedepot.com/shurf...8JUaAiJo8P8HAQ
Wondering if that will work for me.

[MLA]

Can you link the pump you used? I'm interested in this pump
http://www.starmarinedepot.com/shurf...8JUaAiJo8P8HAQ
Wondering if that will work for me.

Page 18 for the 1600
file:///C:/Users/MLA/Downloads/Johnson-Pump-Marine-Catalogue_GB.pdf

And the 1100

http://www.xylemflowcontrol.com/mari...-cartridge.htm

[brit_hunsicker]

Page 18 for the 1600
file:///C:/Users/MLA/Downloads/Johnson-Pump-Marine-Catalogue_GB.pdf

And the 1100

http://www.xylemflowcontrol.com/mari...-cartridge.htm

It's not letting me open that pdf file but I am assuming this is the 1600 pump?
http://www.manventureoutpost.com/pro...l8BxoC1fDw_wcB

[brit_hunsicker]

I'm just getting confused because all of the other pumps with lower pumping capacity you can clearly see the inlet and outlet ports and then the 1600 and 2000 you can see the outlet ports but the bottom is flat. Was making me think it's more of a bilge pump. Just didn't want to order something and then get it and have the wrong kind of pump.
This 1250 Johnson you can see the inlet and outlet.
http://www.manventureoutpost.com/pro...848103%29.html

[MLA]

The Pro Series has a bronze bass with a female threaded inlet as opposed to a plastic body with male threaded inlet.

[Dandy21]

Brit, I feel I should jump in here and let you know that MLA should be your go to guy for ballast, not to mention the guy is just as knowledgeable on stereo gear. I know this first hand as he helped me through a ballast upgrade on our last boat and his recommendations were spot, product pricing is very fair and has great service as well. This was all done via email and phone as I live 1/2 way across the country from him. I would suggest setting up a time to talk with or email Mike what you want to accomplish and he should be able to provide you with everything you would need. Mike is a great dude that has been very instrumental in many boat owners ballast and stereo upgrades/installations.

[brit_hunsicker]

Thanks for the insight Dandy21. So it sounds like you sell ballast equipment, Mike, is that correct? If so, I may be interested in buying some stuff from you. And I will just go ahead and type out this long explanation of how I want to run my ballast so you can point out any flaws that may come to light afterwards, could save me some headache!

So right now each ballast tank has 3 ports on it. 2 on top and 1 on bottom. One top port on each tank is for overflow and those are run separate on each tank. The other top port is for venting, which each tank has a 3/8" hose running up to the vent controls next to the driver. And then from the vent controls both tubes end up in one tube exiting right next to the driver. The port on the bottom is for filling and draining, which gets its water pickup from under the boat. From the bottom of the boat it goes through 2 pumps, pumping against eachother, one for filling, one for draining. After the pumps it tees off right below the tanks and goes into each tank.

Now I'm sure you already knew that was my setup, but I figured I'd go ahead and explain it just in case. And this is my plan for running the new lines, in hopes it will be a more convenient, fool proof system that doesn't require driving down the lake at 20 mph to fill or sitting still to drain.

My water pickup will still come from below the engine. From there it will hit a 1600 or 2000 gph pump and then under the tanks it will hit a tee that goes to the top of each tank, and enter through the existing overflow port. I chose to enter in that port because it is 3/4" in diameter. The new overflow port/constant vent will come out of the top of the tank in the existing vent port which is 3/8" in diameter. Coming out of the 3/8" port I will have 3/4" barbed fitting in order to run 3/4" out each tank to the overflow ports on the back of the boat. Those will be 2 separate ports, one for each tank. The drain ports will come out the bottom of each tank and below the tanks it will go into a tee and then directly into another 1600 gph pump. This pump hose will then run up under the drivers side gunnel where the old vent tubes ran and exit beside the driver. The vent controls next to the driver would no longer be in use.

That is my game plan, hope I explained it well enough for you guys to see what I am talking about. I have talked with a few other guys I boat with and they don't see any problems. Only thing I am worried about is shoving too much water in and not being able to vent/overflow quick enough since the port I will be using for that is 3/8", even though it will end up in 3/4" tube within 2" of the tank.

Let me know your thoughts. Also my phone number, if it would be handier just to talk on the phone is (785)383-6471.

[MLA]

@ Dandy, Thanks for the kind words.

@ Brit,

I do custom ballast installs and have been known to package up a custom ballast system from time to time.

When using aerator pumps, filling into the top is best. However, I see a potential venting issue with that small of a vent outlet. Since you are going to split the flow rate between 2 tanks, it may not be too much of an issue, heres why. With a 1600 GPH pump, you actual at the tank flow, will likely be about 1300 gph. Divide that between the 2 tanks, you are only looking at roughly 650 gph into each tank.

The other thing to consider, is the size of the pump and the depth of the bilge. Im one of the few advocates for aerator pumps, but they are not the right pump for every boat or system. In the older generations boats, the bilges can be shallow because they boat was still somewhat of a ski hull. This makes getting the aerator pump oriented correctly, to prevent air lock. You want that pump as close to the thru-hull as possible and an upward travel all the way to the outlet, If the pumps outlet gets below the inlet, you get air lock. If the plumbing between the pumps inlet and thru-hull is higher at any point then the pump, you will get air lock. So you need to make sure a large hi-flow pump will fit.

[a0128]

Brit, why not use a couple of reversible impeller-based pumps? One for each tank. The Jabsco Ballast Puppy flows @ 8 GPM which should take approximately 3+ minutes to fill / drain each of your two 25 gallon ballast tanks. Since you have everything torn apart and you are going to redesign it anyway maybe it is worth a look. Individual pumps would also let you fine tune individual tank levels verses a single pump that would (presumably) fill each tank equally.

The Attwood Tsunami 1200 GPH pump is very close to what was originally installed. The inlet and outlet are larger so you would need new mounting brackets and appropriate sized hose, etc. The benefit to using this pump is it will go back into the factory location.

Make sure any pump you install is ignition protected if it is going into the engine compartment.

[nyryan2001]

Brit, what's the particular reason you have ruled out a single reversible pump per bag?

From a simplicity DIY standpoint... I'd go this route

[brit_hunsicker]

Lots of good info to consider. I got anxious last night and bit the bullet and ordered 2 shurflo 2000gph pumps. Now that you mention limited room for mounting I may be in for a tricky install.
The reason I didn't want to do reversible pumps is because I assumed you would have to fill and drain from the same port on the tank, being the bottom obviously. I wanted to get away from that. After thinking a little more it might be possible to use a reversible pump and still split the lines and have one on top and one on bottom, with check valves in all the right places.
I guess I will find out what I'm in for soon enough.

[MLA]

Lots of good info to consider. I got anxious last night and bit the bullet and ordered 2 shurflo 2000gph pumps. Now that you mention limited room for mounting I may be in for a tricky install.
The reason I didn't want to do reversible pumps is because I assumed you would have to fill and drain from the same port on the tank, being the bottom obviously. I wanted to get away from that. After thinking a little more it might be possible to use a reversible pump and still split the lines and have one on top and one on bottom, with check valves in all the right places.
I guess I will find out what I'm in for soon enough.

With a reversible pump and tanks, you will absolutely need to fill and drain from the lower fitting. This would also free up the larger top port for a better vent. Venting during draining is crucial with a hard tank. It will tin can if not venting.

Having said that, dont abandon the original plan, unless the larger pump can not be oriented in the bilge correctl and you think the single drain pump is going to be down hill of both tanks.