Just curious as I recently got a new long block as well, warranty was 3 months and now 4 months later I'm having issues again. Hoping you have better luck
X
-
As I'm installing the flooring I ran across a question - does anyone know if there is some type of support that sits in the hole in the middle of the gas tank to support the fiberglass floor? There was not one with the boat (this piece was removed when I purchased) and it seems like a large span with no support. Any input is appreciated!
Comment
-
-
I would estimate close to 50 hours wet sanding this boat! I had 100+ small nicks/gouges to repair and sand out, so I ended up DA'ing the whole boat and blocking down the repaired areas. I then had about 50+ hours in buffing/polishing (through about 4 different stages). No wax yet. I was going to use marine/rv wax (which takes forever, if you have ever used it), but I'll likely only use the spray on wax at this point.
Comment
-
-
Ive got a 220 as well, and,I am considering removing the original decals and adding the chromax ones like you have. Were the decals difficult to remove? Do you have any pointers to remove them? Also, after removing the decals do you think it will be necessary to wetsand and buff, or do you think just buffing will be fine. I don't want the boat to be faded and where the decals were, it still looks new.
Comment
-
-
My boat was badly oxidized. The decals were not terribly difficult to remove - especially with the use of a heat gun. Because the boat was oxidized/scratched so bad, I had to wet sand everything and buff. I think you could get away with just buffing (a 2 stage buff) if your boat has not had tons of exposure/oxidation. Otherwise, 1000-1500 on a DA with water would be relatively easy on such a flat surface.
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by jonnydeez View PostIve got a 220 as well, and,I am considering removing the original decals and adding the chromax ones like you have. Were the decals difficult to remove? Do you have any pointers to remove them? Also, after removing the decals do you think it will be necessary to wetsand and buff, or do you think just buffing will be fine. I don't want the boat to be faded and where the decals were, it still looks new.
I've got some Nautique crest decals for sale. They are OEM. They will transform the boat and also cover and protect more surface area of the gelcoat. I think if you can find them, you will see they are over $600 online. I'm asking $350.00 plus shipping for the complete set. I'll give a PN member $50.00 off. This version is for a white deck and not a colored deck.Last edited by enzo thecat; 02-23-2016, 09:31 AM.2016 G21 SupeAir.
Comment
-
-
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by JMitch811 View Post[ATTACH=CONFIG]n480015[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]n480016[/ATTACH] I have a very similar 220 to yours and redid my decals last year. Here is a picture of how she would look with the new decals. I think it was a massive upgrade. Seadek as well. heat gun takes the old stuff off pretty easy
Yes. Those are the decal set I have for sale.2016 G21 SupeAir.
Comment
-
-
No worries about the floor. Someone in this thread mentioned there was a small foam cylinder in the hole - no support. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything when I installed the floor, only later to somehow crack the fiberglass.
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by JMitch811 View Post[ATTACH=CONFIG]n480015[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]n480016[/ATTACH] I have a very similar 220 to yours and redid my decals last year. Here is a picture of how she would look with the new decals. I think it was a massive upgrade. Seadek as well. heat gun takes the old stuff off pretty easy2007 SANTE 220 - ZR 6 Engine (Bought 2015)
1999 Supra Launch (Bought in 2013)
1987 Supra Marauder - 454 big block (Bought in 2000 - Sold 2015)
Comment
-
Comment