Need advice on loading my boat

[99SAN]

So I traded my trailer(galvanized) for another trailer(painted) and it took me 45 mins to get my boat loaded today. The first time I loaded it (different launch) everything went great. Today, this ramp is more steep, so I backed the trailer in to far and had to pull it out then so had problem getting it up to the roller. When we finally got it close I pulled out and the boat was 3" off of the roller. If I don't back the trailer in far enough the boat won't go up the runners and stops. Should I buy the hard plastic pieces that bolt to the top of the runners. Seems like if i keep the tips of the runners out of the water it loads straight but its hard to get the boat all the way up. The next launch is 30 min by water to our cabin. The old trailer was not easy to load either but I always got it loaded. I have a zeiman trailer. Also, my trailer drags everywhere, even with a 5" drop. The torsion is splined, could I raise it up without any ill effect?

[swatguy]

What kind of boat is it? Tandem or single axel? I would assume it's 99 SAN and single axel trailer.

Are you winching UK or power loading? You want some resistance as you load.

Proper way not knowing your exact setup. Back trailer in far enough to soak the entire bunks. Then pull up to the desired depth. In most cases on single axel a good starting point is top of trailer fender just above water.

[99SAN]

Its a tandem axle, yes 99SAN, what is "UK" .....up? I'm power loading because I can't winch it up if the bunks are touching the boat. When the bunks are barely submerged there is alot of resistance and the boat doesn't want to load

[swatguy]

Sorry UP


Inboards are best power loaded on the trailer. It should require a little "goosing" of the throttle to get it all the way up. Sometimes depending on the angle for steep ramps you may need a combination of both. Have someone cranking the winch while you're hitting the throttle a bit. It's a game of trial and error to find your exact ramp spot. With the tandem a good starting point is the rear tire/fender completely submerged and the front part of the fender just above waterline. It's better to be too shallow when learning a new ramp than have the trailer too deep. This will prevent the dangerous overshoot and gel damage .

[ZIRB3L]

What swatguy says about overshooting is true, as I learned this weekend. Dont over submerge.

[SkiTower]

What swatguy says about overshooting is true, as I learned this weekend. Dont over submerge.

x2. Between an overshoot and lateral current:

[99SAN]

Wow! I probably came close to doing that yesterday.

[bscott]

Liquid Rollers works very well, too. You don't have to do the entire bunks, just do the front half. And always keep the winch strap connected to the boat until you are ready to back it off the trailer.

[Paxdad]

Sorry UP


Inboards are best power loaded on the trailer. It should require a little "goosing" of the throttle to get it all the way up. Sometimes depending on the angle for steep ramps you may need a combination of both. Have someone cranking the winch while you're hitting the throttle a bit. It's a game of trial and error to find your exact ramp spot. With the tandem a good starting point is the rear tire/fender completely submerged and the front part of the fender just above waterline. It's better to be too shallow when learning a new ramp than have the trailer too deep. This will prevent the dangerous overshoot and gel damage .

I would never power load my boat as the dark hull and abrasive material in the carpet dont mix well. My rear bumper is almost touching the water and trailer is fully submerged which is "deep loading". Once the boat is in between the guide post, power is cut and I wade in to my knees and bring bow to the roller (maybe two cranks fo the winch). This way the trailer raises directly under the boat when pulling forward. I do this for almost every ramp I visit. It takes my wife and I all of 1 minute to load and unload.
Out of curiosity do you have the guide posts on your new trailer?? I can't imagine that your new trailer would not.

[99SAN]

Yes it has guide post but my old trailer had the round nautique rollers, this one has carpeted 2x4's. I submerged it far enough I couldn't see the guide posts then it started drifting to one side over top of the guide post. I would rather not power load it because power loading scratched it last time.... Luckily my hull is a light tan and will buff out. when I had the trailer really far in the water and the boat was drifting I couldn't get it straight on the trailer. Paxdad, can u still see your trailer guides after backing it in the water? Also, how do u get it centered on the trailer, every time I pulled it out, the boat was 3-4" to one side

[Paxdad]

Yes I can see them. Keep in mind I a peice of PVC pipe cut to the length of the guide pad. I think it is 42" and the pipe and sleeve float up and down on the post. The PVC has a cap on it to trap air. This allows the trailer to go deeper in the water while still centering the boat as you approach.

[99SAN]

Ah, I forgot they float that is why I could always see my guides, I might cut these off and use the nautique floats
When u get a min, will u measure the pvc and the pipe they ride on. How close is your boat to the guides while it's on the trailer?

[Paxdad]

I have my guides adjusted to where they touch the boat. I will measure and reply tomorrow.