weight distribution hitch?

[all2matt]

with how long these tounges are on the G23 and the sway bars only allowing 24"-27" of play did you guys ened up mounting both side s of the mounting plates together so there is basicly 1 double sided bracket to hold both sway bars on the straight tounge part of the trailer?

I was hoping to see a few pics of others before purchasing one but have not had any luck.

[all2matt]

basicly get rid of the inside plates and bolt them together

[Beg4wake]

Would that not defeat the hydraulic depression brake system of the trailer? Also...just inquiring because I'm new to the whole WD Hitch mounts...but how exactly does this work and what vehicles would you need this on?

[a0128]

Would that not defeat the hydraulic depression brake system of the trailer?

Yes.

Also...just inquiring because I'm new to the whole WD Hitch mounts...but how exactly does this work and what vehicles would you need this on?

Most every vehicle out there would need a WD hitch if towing a G-series boat and you want to 1) be safe, 2) achieve the truck's maximum towing capacity.

https://www.etrailer.com/tv-weight_d...ution_faq.aspx

[Beg4wake]

Yes.



Most every vehicle out there would need a WD hitch if towing a G-series boat and you want to 1) be safe, 2) achieve the truck's maximum towing capacity.

https://www.etrailer.com/tv-weight_d...ution_faq.aspx

What exactly does it do though...alleviate some of the weight off of the tongue/ball point? I have a '13 Ram 2500 that has been lifted 6". When I did the lift, I told them that I pretty much only drive the truck to tow my wake boat (current boat is a 2008 MC XStar, trading this Dec for a G23). I told them I didn't want the rear of the truck to sag any from the weight of the boat. They threw on some HEAVY duty shocks, (Nighthawk 2.625" with 1" drive bar) and I can attest, the rear of the truck doesn't even drop more than 1" when hooked to the boat. I've never had any probs towing as is. I feel I would benefit more from the added trailer braking than I would from the weight distribution. Thoughts? Also, depending on upgrade costs...I am also considering the triple axle trailer. Do those help with the weight distribution?

[a0128]

Did you read the contents of the link?

[a0128]

I'd also look at the GCWR of your Ram 2500 to make sure you are not exceeding that. GCWR is the combined weight of the loaded tow vehicle and trailer (boat). Do you have a Class IV receiver and hitch? The extra headroom in a Class IV (18,000 lb tow rating) over a Class III (8,000 tow rating) would be beneficial.

[all2matt]

Would that not defeat the hydraulic depression brake system of the trailer?

If Im understanding your queation correctly then: the bars slide on the support brackets that mount to the trailer so it may provide some resistance but shouldnt stop them from working.

[a0128]

If Im understanding your queation correctly then: the bars slide on the support brackets that mount to the trailer so it may provide some resistance but shouldnt stop them from working.

The supporting brackets you refer to are bolted to the trailer. Certain trailer manufacturers do not recommend the use of a weight distribution system because most weight distribution systems used on trailers with surge brakes do not allow the coupler to push into the coupler housing thus engaging the brakes. You should check with your manufacturer to determine if your trailer is compatible and with the WD hitch system to see if it is compatible with surge brakes.

I think Jeff recently added a WD hitch to his rig. Maybe he can give us some feedback regarding his experience with it.

[shag]

Spending that much money, maybe you check into electric brakes.... I would like both (WD hitch and electric brakes) towing that much boat. My .02

[BoardSkier]

I use a WD on our horse trailer but not on the 226 trailer. I cant tell the difference. Tow vehicle is a Silverado 3500 SRW. I agree with the post above -- the WD hitch will likeley impede the hydraulic brakes. I am not sure how well electric brakes will work in a submerged environment.


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[beach]

I think electric over hydraulic brakes would be the way to go for a boat trailer. That way you could use a weight distributing hitch and still have your brakes work 100%. Plus your brakes would actually work in reverse when you're backing down the ramp. I'm surprised G series trailers don't come from the factory with electric over hydraulic brakes, since it looks like a WD hitch is required for most vehicles.

[nyryan2001]

Electric over hydraulic is how most over the newer big go-fasts are trailered, and those guys love it. Requires a small 12v battery to be mounted on the front of the trailer.

[aZ`]

Here in aus, electric over hydraulic is mandatory on any trailered load over 2000kg (4400lbs) and does not require a battery to operate. I have electric over hydraulic discs and this setup is better than any other I have ever towed, and by a fair margin. Over here any trailered load over 2000kg must ALSO be fitted with a break away device, this unit has a small battery which applies the brakes automatically should the trailer and the tow vehicle ever become disconnected whilst under way.

I also tow with a WDH, and find it hard to believe so many of you not only don't use them but don't even understand what they do.


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[Beg4wake]

Did you read the contents of the link?

link didn't work