Weight Distribuion Hitch installed

[NautiqueJeff]

I agree with Kenv. That's the way mine works too.

On the question about chains and Equal-i-Zer-style bars, remember that every time the chain is pulled (when the trailer tongue retracts into itself to apply the brakes), it changes the angle of the bars at the far end, thus changing the load on the rear of the tow vehicle. This might be a minimal amount, but depending on how far the trailer tongue retracts into itself, it could be significant enough to cause stability issues. The solid connection of Equal-i-Zer-style bars eliminates this.

[xrichard]

all2matt...the easiest way is to attach the coupler to the ball and then lift the trailer and tow vehicle with the jack on the trailer...enough to make it easy to attach the WD bars (whether using chain type or Equalizer). Then lower the jack. As it lowers, tension is put on the bars and the weight is distributed. Flipping the clips/brackets with full tension can be quite a task. That's why most of us w/travel trailers have electric jacks...it makes it so much easier to do the up./ down routine multiple times (as most find necessary especially when distributing significant tongue weight). To remove them, it's easiest to do the reverse and take the tension off the bars before releasing them.

[aZ`]

On the question about chains and Equal-i-Zer-style bars, remember that every time the chain is pulled (when the trailer tongue retracts into itself to apply the brakes), it changes the angle of the bars at the far end, thus changing the load on the rear of the tow vehicle. This might be a minimal amount, but depending on how far the trailer tongue retracts into itself, it could be significant enough to cause stability issues. The solid connection of Equal-i-Zer-style bars eliminates this.

Thanks Jeff, explanation accepted. But lets put it into context and not equal-I-zer sales speak.
If using 200mm of chain and you get 15mm of actuator movement under braking then you get one half of a mm in lift (that's 0.020"), certainly not what I would call significant.


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[xrichard]

Same topic, different issue...I ordered my trailer with electric over hydraulic brakes. Whether or not you use a weight distributing hitch, EOH is a huge upgrade for something as heavy as the G series. Someone asked about cost earlier...IIRC, the parts are around $800-900 but the cost of upgrade at the time of build was a bit less than that because a fixed coupler is quite a bit cheaper than a surge coupler and the additional labor required is minimal.

Besides better braking control generally, your brakes work when you back down a ramp. If you've ever slid a bit on a steep ramp, you'll know why this is nice. I also had my trailer dolly configured so I can activate the brakes with the flip of a switch when pushing the boat into my garage...also very useful.

[Tallredrider]

Same topic, different issue...I ordered my trailer with electric over hydraulic brakes. Whether or not you use a weight distributing hitch, EOH is a huge upgrade for something as heavy as the G series. Someone asked about cost earlier...IIRC, the parts are around $800-900 but the cost of upgrade at the time of build was a bit less than that because a fixed coupler is quite a bit cheaper than a surge coupler and the additional labor required is minimal.

Besides better braking control generally, your brakes work when you back down a ramp. If you've ever slid a bit on a steep ramp, you'll know why this is nice. I also had my trailer dolly configured so I can activate the brakes with the flip of a switch when pushing the boat into my garage...also very useful.

Sorry about further hijack. Boatmate lists hydraulic brakes as a $1500 option for 2016. I will be considering this. Probably worth another thread to debate their value.

[nyryan2001]

There shouldn't be much debate about it. They are by far superior to anything else out there.

For a 5000lb tow, hydraulic surge brakes are fine for 95% of folks.

For 8-9000lb tows, electric over hydraulic becomes much more of a necessity for anyone who does a decent amount of towing. Requires no braking capability from the tow vehicle, where surge brakes require stopping force from the tow vehicle to stop.

For someone who lives lakefront and doesn't tow much, prolly not worth it. Anyone who tows a G much, prolly should have it.

[Miljack]

To the OP, we had a Durango R/T (std w/V8) and we towed our 230 with it a little bit (approx wt of 5600# on the trailer w/some fuel), and it was fine, but, I would imagine the extra 2k(?) of the G would make it interesting.
How does the driveline do? Is your D an 8speed or 6 speed? What do you think about the braking performance while towing? Have you towed your boat with something else as a comparison?

[all2matt]

To the OP, we had a Durango R/T (std w/V8) and we towed our 230 with it a little bit (approx wt of 5600# on the trailer w/some fuel), and it was fine, but, I would imagine the extra 2k(?) of the G would make it interesting.
How does the driveline do? Is your D an 8speed or 6 speed? What do you think about the braking performance while towing? Have you towed your boat with something else as a comparison?

1. its has handled it well on the 1 trip (180miles roundtrip) so far.
2. it has has the 6 speed.
3. the braking I havent had to fully test it so far. Living in north dakota we dont have anywhere near the traffic that others places have so Ihavent been in one of those stop and go situations yet. in fact that 100+ mile trip we took I hit 2 stop lights from my house to the lake. Yes i think a brake upgrade may be in the near future (GC SRT8 Brembos).
4. have not towed the boat with any other vehicle but going from my tige z1 with no WDH to the G23 with a WDH I will say things feel a little more secure and stiff driving in a straight line.

for the most part we only make this trip to Lake Sakakawea 3 or 4 times a year where as the other 95% time the boat ramp we use on the Missouri River is 1.5 miles from my house and soon to be approx 250ft once our new house is built next yr.

[all2matt]

dont know how I missed it the first few times but have re read the towing thread and see that Jeff ordered a "POLE TOUNGE ADAPTER" for his WDH setup. So I just ordered it for mine and will post more pics and my initial reaction once I get it installed. I am glad I keep looking thru this stuff to make sure Im set up as good as possible.

[jefe]

So, I was wondering just exactly the model # of the equalizer WDS hitch. I have a Ramlin Heavy Duty trailer, and both the dealer and Ramlin told me the Tongue Weight is around +/-430lbs. But the Ramlin Trailer is 1800lbs and the boat is 5200 lbs (G21) so I would think that with the tongue weight and the GTW, a Equalizer wouldn't work. The Tongue weight is very important (you can't go under or over the recommended range) or it loses its value. What is your tongue weight on the trailer.

[all2matt]

I got E-2 I believe. As far as tounge weight in not sure I do have to put quite a bit of force to pick the stabilizer bars up on to the brackets. So I'm thinkin I not under that weight amount.

[Catalac]

That's nuts putting load leveler bars on surge brakes.