Couple notes on the '16 G23. (One might apply to 13-15)

[Wayward]

Finally got some time out in my '16 G23, and a couple things bothered me right off. Posting this so that other owners might save some time and headache!

1- this might have been covered in the past, because I know that I had the same problem on my 2014 G21...... I hate not being able to fold the racks in with boards on them. On the G21 I could fold them in with boards on the bottom only. My '16 G23 now has the bigger JL tower speakers, and I can't even roll them in with a board on the bottom! I park on a lift at my house and always used to leave the boards on the racks on my MCs. I also liked how I could even fold the MC tower with the boards on, if I wanted to crank it way up inside the canopy. Well, I can't do that with the G, but i did figure out a way to have the boards clear the speakers when I fold them in! I simply flipped the racks over. The mounting base on the racks is slightly offset where it mounts to the swivel assy. All I did was removed the 2 screws that hold the decorative cover on, and then removed the 4 mounting bolts. Flipped the rack upside down, and remounted. The boards now clear by about 4 inches. They don't angle up as much, but I don't see how that's a problem..... The other bonus (in my opinion) is that the bungees have to be pulled around and fastened on the bottom instead of the top. I am able to slide the boards in, toss the bungee over the top and easily reach and hook it on the bottom (without having to stand on the seat). This is so much easier for me. I have not found a downside yet, but maybe somebody else might foresee a downside to this.....

2- I tried forever to get my pebble time synced up to the boat with absolutely no luck. I tried everything I could think of! No directions are included with the manuals either (although I think Nautique is going to start sending a pamphlet now. Turns out that the boat will only pair with the original plain pebble watch. It will not pair with a pebble time, even though the app can be installed on pebble time. Make sure you only buy the original pebble. I made this mistake because I liked the pebble time better. Wasted $100. Live and learn

3- just like previous gens, make sure LINC is fully booted up before starting the boat. Also, use the stop button to boot down before shutting off battery switch. Had one NCRS glitch on the first day. None since I made sure to do the 2 things above.

4- I was getting noise through the audio system. I systematically isolated it down to the head unit. I ran a new dedicated ground from the HU back to the battery, and it fixed it. The amplifiers now have dedicated grounds direct to battery on the '16s. Kudos to CC for doing that.

That's it, that's all. Hopefully this might save somebody a little aggravation! Loving this new G!!

[Whitetail15]

pm sent

[OxDoc]

Did you find that the surf wake is much improved over the previous years?

[texasgator]

Thank you for the info on the Pebble watch. I have been considering the Pebble Time as well but was afraid it may not work. I am sorry you had to learn this the hard way but I appreciate you helping the rest of us out.

[Beg4wake]

Yes, definitely a big thanks for the heads up! Subscribing to this thread in hopes that you will continue to post updates on other issues (if any, hopefully none!) that you may come across! Thanks for the info on the watch too...saved me some money there!

One question for ya since you already have your boat....does the manual have a winterization procedure listed on it for these new motors? Just wondering because I scheduled my boat to be delivered in Feb and I'm not sure if it'll be winterized from the factory but even if it is, I'll prob take it for a test spin before I bring it home and will still need to winterize it.

[Wayward]

OxDoc- Ummm....Much Improved? I don't know. Certainly improved, but it isn't like it is a completely different animal. The little wash line that used to run on the lip of the previous gen is gone. NSS and NCRS seem to do quite a bit more for wave customization. You can actually get an extremely mellow wave out of it now. From one extreme (Steep/Mellow) to the other, it is perfectly clean. It also seems a little more powerful in the back section of the wave, but that is hard to measure.....

Conclusion- Little tweaks have made for a cleaner wave (old wave was still pretty darn clean), and more range of motion on the NSS and NCRS plates allow for more customization....... But you can certainly still tell that you are riding behind a G23.

Surf side switches are instant. If you hit the button, the other side is formed in less than 2 seconds. When I use the remote, I don't push the button until I am already headed up the wave to transfer. Its that fast. If driving, have your rider give you the countdown, but wait for them to go for it. On the old G, it was nearly a 2-3 second delay + another 2-3 seconds to have a fully formed wave on the other side. This setup is at least 4x faster.

Beg4wake- In your owners bag, you will find a laminated yellow sheet with all of the winterizing info on it.

[Nordicron]

440 kinda weird I must say to see u posting here! Anyway u figure out anything more on the weird wakeboard issues u were having? I always thought the port side popped a bit differently than heelside on the previous gen G's but others disagreed with me so figured was just me.

[Wayward]

440 kinda weird I must say to see u posting here! Anyway u figure out anything more on the weird wakeboard issues u were having? I always thought the port side popped a bit differently than heelside on the previous gen G's but others disagreed with me so figured was just me.

In my experience, both gen Gs had more ramp on port side wake. That said, it was barely noticeable on the first gen. My second gen was VERY noticeable on my first tow behind it. We tried a bunch of things to get them more even, with no luck. A few days later we took it out again, and I noticed the NCRS was on "high". We usually run the 2013 on 3, or 4, on NCRS, so that is what we were trying on the '16. Well, that is all fine and dandy, as long as NCRS is on "low". Basically, we were running with the NCRS plate too far down. Set it on low, and it is just like riding the 2013 at the speed and lengths we run (22-22.6 and 70, or 75 feet). Didn't really play with it at any other speeds.

[jesutton3]

The NCRS high/low setting only changes how fast the plate moves. It has no effect on how far it extends.

That is what I have been lead to believe from every other source.

[Wayward]

The NCRS high/low setting only changes how fast the plate moves. It has no effect on how far it extends.

That is what I have been lead to believe from every other source.

Not the case on this 2016. There is a very noticeable difference between the two settings. Besides that, what would be the point in the plate moving slower/faster??

Quoted direct from manual- Low - the Hydro-Plate will move up or down in smaller increments
High - the Hydro-Plate will move up or down in larger increments

[Kenv]

The "High" / "Low" are the settings for the "Auto" NCRS....which is for assisting the boat in takeoff and planing. It's the sensitivity when on auto. The 0,1,2,3,4,5 number setting is for NCRS at Surf speed to adjust the POSITION of the plate when surfing. I believe the 0,1,2,3,4,5 can also be used above 13mph on NCRS but locks into one number(position)...does not move by itself when the Auto button is off.

[Wayward]

^ After reading through everything in the manual on it, that sounds accurate........ Which means that when I have mine on high, it must be having a hard time recalibrating to the set position once the speed control is engaged. Might have to look into it more. If I leave the auto setting off, or on low, the wake is good. If I leave it on high, the plate must be staying down too far. It makes it very weight sensitive, and the two sides of the wake are very asymmetrical.

[Armour783]

Wayward, can you take a picture of your flipped board racks? I ran into the same problem on my 2016 with the board racks. Pretty stupid design to not be able to fold the board racks all the way it. Any board in the top slip will hit the tower speakers.

Here's a picture of my board hitting the outer tower speaker while trying to swivel in.

[Tallredrider]

Wayward, can you take a picture of your flipped board racks? I ran into the same problem on my 2016 with the board racks. Pretty stupid design to not be able to fold the board racks all the way it. Any board in the top slip will hit the tower speakers.

Here's a picture of my board hitting the outer tower speaker while trying to swivel in.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n492231[/ATTACH]

It is not real complicated to flip the racks over, it just takes the angle of the boards from tilting upward, to being closer to flat, which allows them to swing inward.

I did the same thing with my 15 so they could clear the speakers. Here is what it looked like on mine, and you can clearly see how the boards are nearly flat. The only downside is that there is the bar that connects the two forks together at the very end is now on the bottom, so that the rope can fall between the forks. That bar is now down on the bottom and you can potentially get the rope caught there when you don't have boards in the racks. Not a big deal if you always have boards in the racks. Not the best pic, but I think you get the idea.

[Whitetail15]

Tall,

I just did this to mine and loved the way the racks swung in. I used it like this for two days. When I got home I switched back. I could not handle the rope falling into the forks and nobody seemed to be able to work the bungee rope. I also think for some reason the boards chatter more in that position, maybe because they have less angle. Nice boat by the way.