Tank Buster ballast upgrade question

[slidin_out]

Can any of you guys/gals with a 2003ish SANTE tell me what size bags you went with in the rear? Was thinking 750s but almost convinced myself to get the 900s as we occassionally surf and wouldn't mind a little extra for it. 900s too much for the compartments? Filled size is really my worry. Will be running factory belly tank and a couple of 250s in the bow and a few lead pop bags to move around the cabin. Have the high altitude prop so not worried about holeshot.

[slidin_out]

Second question noticed the piggyback under bow v-sac is only an option for 2006 and newer. Wouldn't the same thing work for a 2003 210? Says gravity pushes the water down into the belly tank to drain it. How is the 2006+ any different? And what is the PN discount code for WakeMakers these days?

[Beg4wake]

I don't think the 900's would be a problem for the rear compartments. They may not be able to fill to 100% full capacity but it'll be close. 2 things I would do/check however. First, make sure there is nothing in there that can be damaged by the bags filling such as fuse box, ballast timers, etc. Not sure where those may be placed on your specific model year. And secondly, I would look into getting some small aluminum angle pieces cut to run down the inside of the engine box walls to reinforce them and keep them from bowing over into the motor. They are very sturdy, but with time they will start to bend inwards. At least one extra support in the middle on each side would help with that. I believe Wakemakers actually sells a product for this for around $30 so it's not that expensive!

https://www.wakemakers.com/engine-di...nel-saver.html

Can't comment on the rest of your questions.

[Beg4wake]

You know....I may take that back....just about the 900# bags....from looking at a few posts, it seems that 750's will pretty much max out that rear compartment. I doubt you'll actually get much extra weight from 900's as they won't be able to fill much more than 750# anyways. I would still suggest the rest of that post however!

[slidin_out]

Yep will have to brace for sure. Sounds like 750s are the ticket. Anyone with a pre-07 piggyback the bow bag off the belly tank?

[d_nodixon]

I had an 06 with the integrated bow bag....worked pefectly. Cut out the cooler for now room also.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk

[slidin_out]

Ok got the bags plumbed in and tested out weekend before last. Losing water out of them after filling to capacity. Ran a search on here for the problem and it seems with the factory two pump per side setup that I may need check valves. So my question is do I need one on the fill and empty or just the fill? Also can't seem to find anywhere but do I need to put a loop in my vent hose also?

[casmith71]

Ok got the bags plumbed in and tested out weekend before last. Losing water out of them after filling to capacity. Ran a search on here for the problem and it seems with the factory two pump per side setup that I may need check valves. So my question is do I need one on the fill and empty or just the fill? Also can't seem to find anywhere but do I need to put a loop in my vent hose also?

just the fill. you can either manually close the seacok after full or do what I and many others have done and put a solenoid valve in the line and wire it directly to the fill pump. the valve is "normally closed" and opens when the pump is turned on then returns to the closed position after pump is turned off. I used this one
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hunter-In...101G/202067941

[slidin_out]

So these would go between pump and the flow-rite valve or eliminate the flow-rite valve?

[casmith71]

So these would go between pump and the flow-rite valve or eliminate the flow-rite valve?

eliminate the flow rite. it is where you are losing water

[slidin_out]

So no more helm control knobs? And these just splice into the hot and ground on the existing pump simple as that? Or does it require a run up to the dash for wiring?

[slidin_out]

Do I still need to put a check valve on the empty line also? Or will the pump keep it from siphoning that way? Sorry about so many questions just want to make sure I get all the stuff I need so I can replace all of them at one time. Heading to Home Depot today to get those solenoid valves.

[casmith71]

if you put the solenoid valve in then you will no longer need the helm controls. if they haven't yet they WILL freeze up and break.
Yes they just wire directly to the fill pump wiring.
if you want them on their own switch then you will need to run wiring to the dash and a toggle switch for each valve but attaching to the pump wires allows it to open when you turn the pump on and close when pump is off.
if your empty pump is allowing water to escape when not running then replace it.
you should only have valves on the intake line not empty or vent
you will also need (6) 1" thread/barbed fittings

[casmith71]

you were most likely losing water when you had the hard tanks and just didn't realize it

[slidin_out]

Thanks will start on the intake side and just replace all three flow-rites and be done with it. Then I determine if we are losing or gaining water through the vent and fill. One step at a time. Thanks again for the replies! Hope I get to test it out this weekend and see if that resolves the problem.