Surf settings for 2016 230

[doug69]

Hi,

Just starting surfing behind my 230. Wondering what people have found to be the optimal settings. I have the upgraded bags all around and using level 5 surf setting. Also going with the opposite bag only 7/8 full and speed at 10.5. I find the wake plate at vertical (up position) just throws water in my face so I leave it down. I'd like to get the most out the boat so wondering what other people are doing.

Thanks.


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[markj]

2014's-2016's are all the same. Just search for "2015 SAN 230 piggyback ballast upgrade." It's the most comprehensive thread on ballast for newer 230's. FWIW, I'd recommend chucking the stock rear bags and having wakemakers build you custom sacks to fill out the entire rear compartments. It's about a $400 upgrade and worth every penny. The sacks they made for me are 16"WX25"HX55"L. They fit perfectly. I still have a few inches on top of the sacks for storage when full and I don't need any engine divider reinforcement kit. I also added a custom front sack too. It works fine for boarding to help drop the nose and make it easier to plane out, but isn't needed (or wanted) for surfing.

[Davew0815]

Fill both rear ballast all the way (ideally with bigger bags than stock). I find it best to not put weight in the belly tank/front bag and instead run a little faster to lengthen and firm up the wave. Run 11 - 11.4 depending on how long/firm you like the wave with NSS at 4 or 5. For a clean lip, hydrogate on '2' for port and '1' (all the way off) for starboard. Makes a great wave both sides and clean transitions.

[Guntersville230]

2014's-2016's are all the same. Just search for "2015 SAN 230 piggyback ballast upgrade." It's the most comprehensive thread on ballast for newer 230's. FWIW, I'd recommend chucking the stock rear bags and having wakemakers build you custom sacks to fill out the entire rear compartments. It's about a $400 upgrade and worth every penny. The sacks they made for me are 16"WX25"HX55"L. They fit perfectly. I still have a few inches on top of the sacks for storage when full and I don't need any engine divider reinforcement kit. I also added a custom front sack too. It works fine for boarding to help drop the nose and make it easier to plane out, but isn't needed (or wanted) for surfing.

I just switch mine over yesterday...I need to make 1-2 more "adjustments" then I will post a series of photos to help anyone else thinking about it. I went the same way as markj and did custom. I DID lower the height to 20" instead of 25" with the goal of keeping trays in. Yes, I def will not have as much weight with the decrease in volume, but the way the sac fills in the anterior and posterior space better as well as more efficiently fills the locker, there will still be ALOT of weight added compared to the stock 400's. Took me about an hour to hour and a half, but I was slow and took some pictures as well as made adjustments to my fill and vent port locations. Follow the "2015 SAN 230 piggyback ballast upgrade" in the next few days and I'll post a complete write up for anyone interested.

[Guntersville230]

This is the direct link if your interested

http://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/fo...allast-upgrade

Also another link about 230 set up

http://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/fo...2015-sante-230

[markj]

I just switch mine over yesterday...I need to make 1-2 more "adjustments" then I will post a series of photos to help anyone else thinking about it. I went the same way as markj and did custom. I DID lower the height to 20" instead of 25" with the goal of keeping trays in. Yes, I def will not have as much weight with the decrease in volume, but the way the sac fills in the anterior and posterior space better as well as more efficiently fills the locker, there will still be ALOT of weight added compared to the stock 400's. Took me about an hour to hour and a half, but I was slow and took some pictures as well as made adjustments to my fill and vent port locations. Follow the "2015 SAN 230 piggyback ballast upgrade" in the next few days and I'll post a complete write up for anyone interested.

Well? It's been a few days... Curious to hear your experience.

[Guntersville230]

Well? It's been a few days... Curious to hear your experience.

added pics....biggest issue was vent hose, but i have a temp fix for now, but going to add parachute cordage to help hold up hose so it wont put pressure on vent fitting. I still need to take some better angle photos but it'll be ok for now...thanks for your advice during the process!

http://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/fo...-upgrade/page5

[Guntersville230]

2014's-2016's are all the same. Just search for "2015 SAN 230 piggyback ballast upgrade." It's the most comprehensive thread on ballast for newer 230's. FWIW, I'd recommend chucking the stock rear bags and having wakemakers build you custom sacks to fill out the entire rear compartments. It's about a $400 upgrade and worth every penny. The sacks they made for me are 16"WX25"HX55"L. They fit perfectly. I still have a few inches on top of the sacks for storage when full and I don't need any engine divider reinforcement kit. I also added a custom front sack too. It works fine for boarding to help drop the nose and make it easier to plane out, but isn't needed (or wanted) for surfing.

Been a while since this post, but markj I notice my rear dividers (behind the slide out dividers where the blower fan is mounted and where some sort of filter is mounted on the other side) are starting to bow in towards the engine. Are you having this issue with your set up? its like the sacs are so tall they are "falling" in the back in toward the engine compartment....just wondering if you had similar finding.

[Neverenough]

Mine do the same. I thought about adding a support between the two side to keep it from breaking them.

[Guntersville230]

Mine do the same. I thought about adding a support between the two side to keep it from breaking them.

I am wondering if adding a little piece of angle iron or channel aluminum like stock would work to hold the base in place....not sure how much fiberglass depth i have in the back to work with before I screw out the bottom haha!

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[markj]

Yep. I ended up having the same exact problem as well. Been meaning to post something about it, but I don't have a permanent solution figured out yet. After briefly taking out the dividers and looking around for ideas, I felt like there was no simple, long lasting solution which will still allow for easy engine access. My temporary (summer saving) solution was to measure and cut a piece of 3/4" plywood which runs from front to rear and totally prevents any migration of the bigger bags whatsoever. I used cardboard first to make the template for the plywood. The plywood works perfectly, but it's still plywood in my boat. Yuk.

Additionally, I had an issue with what sounded like either a belt or pulley squealing. It initially only happened on warm up and went away after a couple minutes. As weeks went on, the squeal took longer to go away and eventually, would never go away. I took it into the dealer and they said it was caused by the ballast sack pushing that rear divider into a shroud on the engine. That made no sense to me at all because that sack never encroached far enough to do that. It only moved that panel a few inches in the back. After a lengthy argument, I ended up bending over and paid the dealer under duress for their "repair" since they were holding my boat hostage. Well... It's squealing again even though I put the plywood panel in there. Can't wait to hear the excuses now. There's actually more to this story, but I'll save it for another thread if I have one more problem with them.

One of the reasons a permanent solution is so difficult is due to the fact that those vertical channels are under-engineered. IMO, I have to start from scratch, find beefier vertical channels and build it from there. I'd love to hear if anyone has come up with a good solution. Especially a way to prevent the back divider from moving. That piece is not even attached in the rear. It's just a couple screws into the rear vertical channel.

[lucky7t]

I know I'll get slammed for this but do you really need to go to all this trouble ?

We surf all the time with stock 210 with factory pro ballast .

All full
Nss at 2
Hydro gate off
10.2 to 10.4 mph

[Guntersville230]

Yes, its pretty sad that they haven't figure out that ALMOST everyone adds additional weight to these areas and could beef it up at the factory for a matter of a few dollars that would make a **** of a big difference to 230/210 owners....but seems like these boats are now "step-kids" to the G series. Sadly, this has made me rethink my decision of purchasing a 230 and maybe I should have just bit the bullet to get a G23 with all the bells and whistles and just pay the bigger bucks cause a 230 is such a "cheap" boat to start with.....riiiiiiiight

[Guntersville230]

I know I'll get slammed for this but do you really need to go to all this trouble ?

We surf all the time with stock 210 with factory pro ballast .

All full
Nss at 2
Hydro gate off
10.2 to 10.4 mph

I am a pretty big guy (6'2" and 250) so having the bigger wake and push def makes a difference. But on the flip side, yes now I am thinking going through all this trouble is a pretty big pain in the a$$

[markj]

I know I'll get slammed for this but do you really need to go to all this trouble ?

We surf all the time with stock 210 with factory pro ballast .

All full
Nss at 2
Hydro gate off
10.2 to 10.4 mph

How much do you weigh? Do you have a huge board? I'm 5'-10" 200 lbs and ride a Victoria Factor PCX in large. I surfed a 2014 210 with stock factory pro ballast before I bought my 230 and I couldn't stay in the pocket. We surf at about 8.5 mph, hydro gate up, NSS at 0. If the hydro hoist at my marina would support it, I'd just add lead, but my hoist wont float my boat (another reason I can't get a G) with any additional weight so I'm forced to rely on water ballast.