Zero Off Settings/ R2 Attenna Upgrade 2008 Super Air Nautique 210

[swatguy]

Well I recently opted for the R2 Attena Upgrade to try and solve the surging issue I was having when boarding. The upgrade is nice and is just a touch smoother. its 10 fold better for surfing. However I am still not necessarily happy with its overall performance. Spoke with guys at Zero Off for some clarifications and setting recommendations, but all the info they were giving me is slalom related. The really had no insight on wakeboard settings. All their pull characteristics are bouy and ski related.

Here is my dilemma. I ride multiple times a day from fully loaded with around 1800 over stock, stock for the wife, to almost empty for the kids.......... and somewhere in between for guests. The boat is holding speed fully loaded ok. However at the stock ballast point or anything under it fluctuates anywhere form .5-.7 mph and seems to "hunt just a bit.

All my Perfect Pass units had finer adjustments like KDW, NN, CN etc to dial it in and I was right on with maybe a .2mph fluctuation. Anyone have any tips or clues how to get this dialed in? Currently using the factory default slalom 58 settings. the only finer adjustment Zero Off gave me was the A-B-C !-5 or so pull characteristics to play with. Or is .5-.7 the acceptable range for the Zero Off? just seems no where near the smoothness of the pp units I have had in the past

[H2O]

I cannot help with the ZO settings but I can add this: I have run both ZO (R2 antenna with latest software) and PP (paddle wheel) literally at the same time in my boat. (Yes, both are installed and functional). Surprisingly, PP gives the better control hands down! Much smoother pull, no surging, very stable and accurate speed. I much prefer PP.

[swatguy]

Having logged probably over 2000 hrs over the years behind pp boats i would concur at this point. A buddy has.98 MC 205 with the lowest model of PP.( perfect pass cruise) and it holds better than my ZO

[scottb7]

I have run boats - although not the same boat - with pp and zero off. I would say about the same. I do think that .5 to .7 variation is quite a bit. I had the bouncing bow and simply put more weight in the bow. Solved the problem completely and saved about $500 bucks. When the round puck quits - and it will eventually - then I will get the upgrade probably.

[swatguy]

To be quite honest Scott I wouldn't even do the 500 for the upgrade then. It doesn't give you the performance upgrade anywhere near what the cost was. Just do the same puck. The only huge performance upgrade I gained was the throttle up to surf being much smoother. The old system I had to actually turn ZO off to get to the 10.5 speed and then click it on. Otherwise it would take a football field ( little exaggeration) to plane up to 10.5. With the software/antenna upgrade it gets to speed no problem with it engaged. Wakeboarding the system is touch better, but not 500 better. I posted this thread in hopes of hearing that something may have been dialed in wrong.

Kind of of sucks but oh well. I'll try some of the different pre programmed settings from ZO and see what comes of it.

[jhiestand]

I can totally relate to this thread. I purchased Perfect Pass Pro way back in... 97? Transferred it to my 01 SAN where it ran like a top for the duration. I did have to change the servo motor one time, but other than that it was a rock solid and accurate pull. In the 08 we recently purchased it had the Zero Off with the round puck, and first time in the water it would start surging uncontrollably. Solved that with the EXPENSIVE antenna and software upgrade this spring. It now is merely okay. It doesn't maintain speed in corners, doesn't know if i'm travelling up or downstream and it just stops holding speed periodically. I'm not sure if we've experienced it losing a gps signal yet, but I find it interesting that gps speed control is all the rage and yet, at least in my experience it performs poorly compared to paddlewheel of old.

I would also be interested in Zero Off wakeboard settings that might improve our pull?

[thedude]

I updated a 2009 230 with the latest software and square puck last summer and found the speed to hold perfectly within .2mph wakeboarding with 3500lbs of ballast. I also had the 1235 prop and zr409 motor. Wish I could help you guys out with the settings, but I sold the boat recently.

[xlair]

You guys ever give any thoughts to scrapping the zero off and going to stargazer?


Sent from my iPhone using PLANETNAUTIQUE mobile app

[lucky7t]

I concur . I opted for paddle wheel pp on our 15 because of this . Get hardly no surge

[Miljack]

This is a weird thread to me as I have experience on a '08 210 and now our '08 230, also have PP experience (DIY installed) on my '99 Pro Air.
On the 210 with the round puck, it would surge and porpoise with almost anything over stock, the 1235 prop made it even worse, not as bad with a 546 (?). We got it to work ok with the "stockish" prop and extra weight, but rollers would get it bouncing again.
On my 230 I had the original round puck, and it would porpoise while wakeboarding with ANY weight over stock. The surfing was fine no problem at all. I updgraded the puck to the R2 version, and now wakeboarding at any speed or weight is great, no porpoising nor speed surging at all. Speed control in the turns is perfect, negligible variation in either turn direction...
Surfing is very good too, no problems, and I'm running approx 1000 lbs front (stock + full arrow sack), and 1200 surf side (stock plus very full Sumo 900).

My PP experience was not very good on my Pro Air, but I think that hull created some issues with turbulence for the paddle wheel. Our speed would vary quite a bit and in turns? Forget it!

[swatguy]

Ok so I messed around with the settings and was able to get the speed a little more consistent. I did t have any riders in tow edging hard or really stressing the system but I was able to get the speeds within a more acceptable .2-.3mph range with a more subtle adjustment in the acceleration and deceleration process. I'll go through the entire process as ZO doesn't make it easy. From the home screen you always see with SPD SET AND NAUTIQUE LOGO in it.

1). Hold select for 2 seconds it will take you to the diagnostic screen
2)hold menu for 2 seconds. It will take you to the next screen with all the profiles you will see a menu bar labeled SCRN SET MAP WHO.
3) use up or down arrow to select WHO. This will take you to the stored profiles. Most likely position one is slalom 58. Whichever has the asterix is the profile you're using. Once that's highlighted
4)hold select for 2 seconds and it will take you to the next screen with the profile details. TYPE is the one we wanted highlights. The is related to the pull type. Will go A1/A2/A3 B1-B2-B3 etc.
5) I found c3 to be the best pull if you running factory ballast or under. I found b3 to be the best all around from loaded up 1500-2k over stock all the way to empty. C3 was just touch better at the lighter weights.

6)Hit MENU to exit back a couple screens , back to the original diagnostic screen from here you can toggle the easiest to try couple different pull settings because it will allow you to watch the speed. During the pull with the SCREEN MAP WHO menu bar open Once you're were you like on the pull settings hold SELECT from that diagnostic screen and viola you back to the home screen.



Therr here a real no guarantees here. I am running the 343 with 1617 prop. My fully weighted over stock speed is 23.7. My stock speed is 21.5-22 And my empty speed is 19-20mph. Sometimes w noobs as low as 17.5.

As someone mentioned the boat does respond well to bow weight and if you find yourself still bouncing a little add some weight to tone it down. I hope to get some true riding behind to test here by weeks end but so far it looks like it helped.

[scottb7]

don't know if this add's value but goes along with above and documents the "pull types"...i will have to take a look at this...i am a bit confused. what is the default if you have never touched the pull type?

[swatguy]

The default is A1 at least on mine it was.


There are 4 presets with different "pull" values installed from ZO from the factory. The factory default is slalom 58 with an A1 setting.


we did some slalom pulls with my wakeboard settings using the B3 and C3 pull settings and it was not the best. Swapped back to the A1 for slaloming for the best results as I had some really advanced skiers that were pulling hard.

[scottb7]

i just looked at mine, and there was not an asterisk. i would guess it was using the first one on the list anyway. anyhow i set up a rider called "wakeboard" and set it to b3 as you suggest.

we usually ride pretty heavy with fat brick in the bow, ski locker full with bag, belly stock tank full, and the 1100 lb sacks at 2 button press. so i would guess that is in the 1500 to 2000 lbs you suggest using b3 for....

cant wait to see if can tell the difference. any other thoughts? i am very interested in getting maximum performance..