Metal enclosure?

[tgator96]

Hi, guys. I'm currently storing my 230 in my back yard on the trailer. My cover goes over the tower and down to the chines but leaves a bit of the bow and all of the trailer exposed. I keep it clean and well waxed but am wondering if it's worth putting a metal enclosure over it. If so, it would be enclosed on three sides leaving only the northern portion exposed.

My motivation is to reduce mildew and any potential sun or weather damage. Given my cover (see pic) would a three-sided metal enclosure really make a difference?




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[Rupe1083]

I'm interested in this topic as well . Does anyone have any experience storing their boat under a metal in closure and what has been there experience. I have purchased a 3 sided enclosure 22'x35' and am waiting for it to be installed.

[t.franscioni]

Iv always stored my boats under partially or fully enclosed areas with and without covers... fabric boat covers are better than nothing but you want to make sure they breathe well otherwise when they get wet and humid the boat cover will work against you and it could trap that moisture inside the boat where mildew could thrive (this happened to a Ski Sanger I have). If I had choice between a fabric boat cover or a 3 sided roofed cover I'd probably use both and just make sure I have plenty of vents installed in the fabric cover so the boat can breathe or at least open the cover up after a rain event until it dries up nice outside then close it back up.

[Shayne77]

Keeping the boat in an enclosure would make a difference in reduction of heat damage from the boat. If you're going to leave the boat covered wether its in storage or not a couple of pails of damp rid placed inside the boat will make a huge difference in reducing mildew.

[JD ski]

As stated I would do both, you need sun protection. I had a three sided metal frame fabric sided cover and a canvas boat cover. The areas the sun could get through saw damage to the canvas, gel coat and trailer over about 14 years. The awning covers had to be changed out every two years due to sun damage. The tongue of the trailer was not covered and saw the most damage. It is a small investment to keep your boat in better shape down the road.

[Wake.BC]

What about one of the shelter logic tarp like tents? It would definitely be quick and easy, we use them over the boat slips at the lake and they work good.
I know... it's not a Nautique.


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[aguyupnorth]

wow/.. people must really dislike you at the marina.. lol. .and not cause its a tige.

[Wake.BC]

wow/.. people must really dislike you at the marina.. lol. .and not cause its a tige.

It's a private dock and all the slips have those exact covers.


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[DW SD]

To answer your question, my boat barn makes a tremendous difference in keeping the boat clean, dry and out of the sun. With other boats, I'd fought with water pooling on the cover, sun faded gelcoat and other.

So.... I built a boat barn for not so much $. It is 13' wide x 30' long x 13' high at the peak. About $900 to build. $300 was a custom tarp from billboardtarps.com BTW - Billboard Tarps said this should last 7 years in the sun. It is VERY heavy. Maybe 5 or 8 times as thick as a cheap blue tarp from home depot. After about 20 months, I see no signs of wear. It is just dirty on top as I'm parked 1/4 mile from the freeway.

• The base is 16' 2x4s x 2 on each side connected with steel plates to make 32' long 2x4s, which are anchored to the ground and then the tarp is anchored to them.
• I cut 10' long x 5/8" rebar stakes in 1/2 (60" each) and welded a large square washer to each about 16" from the end. These anchor each hoop and are 60" - 16" = 42" driven in to the ground and bolted to the 2x4 incrementally through the large washer.
• The hoops are made of bundles of 3 x 1" UV grade (conduit) PVC zip tied together. One of the 3 of each hoop has a Tee installed for the top backbone.
• The tarp is anchored to the 2x4s by threaded eyelets in the 2x4 and some bungee cord. The tarp has a sleeve across both bottom edges and lengths of PVC pipe are slid through. A hole is punched above the sleeve for the bungee anchors to pass through.

Later, I added a solar panel and charge controller, another $100, to top off my batteries between days on the water.
I also added a 12V computer cooling fan running on a timed relay, which is programmed to run for 4 days to keep air circulating under the boat cover between trips. This allows the carpet to dry out and also keeps mildew from forming.
The solar panel offsets the consumption of the fan and brings the batteries back to 13.2 float voltage for my mostly weekly trips.

[tgator96]

To answer your question, my boat barn makes a tremendous difference in keeping the boat clean, dry and out of the sun. With other boats, I'd fought with water pooling on the cover, sun faded gelcoat and other.

So.... I built a boat barn for not so much $. It is 13' wide x 30' long x 13' high at the peak. About $900 to build. $300 was a custom tarp from billboardtarps.com BTW - Billboard Tarps said this should last 7 years in the sun. It is VERY heavy. Maybe 5 or 8 times as thick as a cheap blue tarp from home depot. After about 20 months, I see no signs of wear. It is just dirty on top as I'm parked 1/4 mile from the freeway.

• The base is 16' 2x4s x 2 on each side connected with steel plates to make 32' long 2x4s, which are anchored to the ground and then the tarp is anchored to them.
• I cut 10' long x 5/8" rebar stakes in 1/2 (60" each) and welded a large square washer to each about 16" from the end. These anchor each hoop and are 60" - 16" = 42" driven in to the ground and bolted to the 2x4 incrementally through the large washer.
• The hoops are made of bundles of 3 x 1" UV grade (conduit) PVC zip tied together. One of the 3 of each hoop has a Tee installed for the top backbone.
• The tarp is anchored to the 2x4s by threaded eyelets in the 2x4 and some bungee cord. The tarp has a sleeve across both bottom edges and lengths of PVC pipe are slid through. A hole is punched above the sleeve for the bungee anchors to pass through.

Later, I added a solar panel and charge controller, another $100, to top off my batteries between days on the water.
I also added a 12V computer cooling fan running on a timed relay, which is programmed to run for 4 days to keep air circulating under the boat cover between trips. This allows the carpet to dry out and also keeps mildew from forming.
The solar panel offsets the consumption of the fan and brings the batteries back to 13.2 float voltage for my mostly weekly trips.

Wow--thanks for all the info! I think that might be beyond my skill level and being in florida, I'd be afraid of not knowing how to anchor it effectively against 100+ mph winds. But that looks great and I'm sure lots of folks will benefit from your design and detailed post.


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[nyryan2001]

I can tell you a standard Nautique cover will only last around ~5yrs in direct sun, wind, rain and snow. Unless you really stay after it with repairs to the material and ratchet system. And get creative to keep it tight and water not pooling.

the best direct exposure setup will give you an "A-" at best for short periods, with an average of a "B". Rain water will get in around the tower legs and water will inevitably pool and stretch out the material.

if you can do over head cover to reduce UV exposure and the relentless pounding the cover will take from the elements... your boat will be cleaner, look younger and will require less maintenance.

[Johnny_Rock]

Later, I added a solar panel and charge controller, another $100, to top off my batteries between days on the water.
I also added a 12V computer cooling fan running on a timed relay, which is programmed to run for 4 days to keep air circulating under the boat cover between trips. This allows the carpet to dry out and also keeps mildew from forming.
The solar panel offsets the consumption of the fan and brings the batteries back to 13.2 float voltage for my mostly weekly trips.

Looking for advice on the solar panels/controller; and the fan with the timed relay.

Wondering if you'd explain further--or send me a PM.

I was thinking of trying to come up with a similar set up--a series of 12v fans to to get some air flowing inside the boat while it sits on the lift.

Thanks!

[DW SD]

Looking for advice on the solar panels/controller; and the fan with the timed relay.

Wondering if you'd explain further--or send me a PM.

I was thinking of trying to come up with a similar set up--a series of 12v fans to to get some air flowing inside the boat while it sits on the lift.

Thanks!

Hi Johnny,
I sent a detailed email back with all of the AMAZON ASIN part #s I used for the solar panel, charge controller, connectors, wiring loom, Toggle disconnect switch, 12V ECU cooling fan, programmable relay and even the rubbermaid / tupperware plastic container I use to house the circulating fan and relay when it is not in use. That container keeps the electronics dry while on the water.

I hope it helps you!

Cheers,

Doug

[swatkinz]

Get the 3 sided metal building, face it North or South. Back your rig in it as far as it will go. Towel dry the entire boat but especially all of the seats. Pull all of the seat bottoms so that they are loose and wipe the edges of the seats as well as where they meet adjacent seats and seat backs. Open up any of the seats that are hinged, etc. and do not cover the boat, ever unless it is completely dry and then do so only when you've place 2-3 damp rid buckets strategically inside. If you can, mount an air mover or even a cheap box fan or two above the boat to blow air in it, it will help tremendously to reduce mildew and smell. If your cover doesn't have vents, buy some and put them in. Even then, pull the cover back regularly to let the boat breathe. Covers are the enemy. The metal enclosure should protect the boat from sun damage and using the cover sparingly and correctly will keep the mildew at bay. Still it's work to keep a boat nice.

[tgator96]

Get the 3 sided metal building, face it North or South. Back your rig in it as far as it will go. Towel dry the entire boat but especially all of the seats. Pull all of the seat bottoms so that they are loose and wipe the edges of the seats as well as where they meet adjacent seats and seat backs. Open up any of the seats that are hinged, etc. and do not cover the boat, ever unless it is completely dry and then do so only when you've place 2-3 damp rid buckets strategically inside. If you can, mount an air mover or even a cheap box fan or two above the boat to blow air in it, it will help tremendously to reduce mildew and smell. If your cover doesn't have vents, buy some and put them in. Even then, pull the cover back regularly to let the boat breathe. Covers are the enemy. The metal enclosure should protect the boat from sun damage and using the cover sparingly and correctly will keep the mildew at bay. Still it's work to keep a boat nice.

Hey, guys. Quick update for those who are considering this option: I've found the boat definitely gets too dusty not to cover it even inside the metal enclosure. An added benefit of the roof is keeping dew off in addition to sun and rain. As noted above, however, mildew was still a problem both from covering it while damp and from the humidity of the Florida summer being trapped inside. A few months ago, I ran an outdoor extension cord and connected a full-size dehumidifier (hose draining out the through-hull) and a box fan. This seems to have eliminated all the moister issues while also allowing me to keep it spotless between uses.

Latest problem, though, is roaches. Pulled it out last night and it's covered with roach feces I spotted several live insects in the lockers and bilge. YUCK! Anyone have a clever solution to this other than standard insect treatments for the home?