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Anyone find a good way to load these monsters on trailer without tearing up bow? I've backed in deep and cranking up I've left trailer shallower and drive in which I hate. Is it just boat mate trailers? Can the trailer be modified?? I know different ramps are different with angle of ramp... just looking for ideas to avoid the bow getting marks on it. While I've got your attention what's the best way to clean that stuff off?
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Acetone will take it off but will take any wax off too. Asked the same from my dealer and they said acetone works great but make sure to re-wax after its removed washed and dried. So far seems to work great and re-waxing a small area on the front of the boat takes a few minutes, no big deal. I do struggle with the bow and trailering as well. Its the **** strange angle on the nose. I will winch it up and think its on then pull the boat out and there is a 1 inch gap. I have gotten in the habit of just powering on and having a friend winch down. If its still not on the roller then I have to re-back into the water and tighten a little more but that happens once in a blue moon. Try the acetone but make sure to re-wax the spot where the rub marks were. -
I would love to hear feedback as well. Can't stand these boatmate trailers. They seem to have generic bunk positions and not custom designed for this boat.Comment
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I've always needed to power on at my lake. Deep water loading just doesn't work with the angle of the winch.Comment
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I don't trailer my G23 but when I did trailer my prior Sport Nautique, if I sprayed the trailer bunks with silicone spray on occassions the boat would ride up on the bunks much easier. Try it and see what happens.Comment
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I did the same to my last two trailers. This makes power loading or winching up much easier. The boat lines up more naturally and positions itself better on the trailer.Originally posted by GMLIII View Post
Just make sure you connect the boat to the trailer before driving out of the water.
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Spraying silicone on the bunks is asking for trouble, IMO. I have heard too many horror stories like the pick above shows.Comment
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I think boatmate has to be able to figure something out about the location of the bow eye and the tow strap. If you don't get the boat all the way up, it bounces a lot as you drive. The 2016 and up is quite a bit worse than the 2015.
Here is what works for me: I have my driver back the trailer until the bunks are just barely under water, I then drive the boat onto the trailer, which leaves it still about 24 inches from the eye. Then I hop out of the bow, (my wife is usually in the truck, so I don't make her get out) and I winch the boat up as she backs the trailer down farther. This requires the tow vehicle to be in the water up to the rear bumper on the ramps I frequent. Only then can I hand tighten the boat all the way up to where the bow eye meets the roller. Any less and it bounces as we go down the road.Comment
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I had this same problem.
When I test drove a Master Craft X23 the salesman kept my family of 6 on the boat (7 people total) while his helper put the boatmate in the water. He powerloaded the boat and I heard a "click". I asked "what was that", to which he responded "ramp N clamp" with a smile as we were pulled out of the water. I said "sold". I was ready to buy that boat because of that feature! When I looked at the trailer brand I knew Nautique had it. I also looked at how the bow rode on the bow stop and it was tight after the short trip back to the MC dealer.
I bought the G23 and was able to "build" my trailer. I wanted Ramp N Clamp and electric brakes. I was talked out of both by the boatmate rep. The ABC's of sales... Said the RNC was not reliable.
Ive only had the boat out once. I have the huge bow stop gash to show it. I asked my Nautique sales rep how to trailer the boat. He said to get the bunks under the water, get it clipped and then back in some more as you crank it on. Just as Tallredrider said.Comment
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Hmmm seems like an issue with all trailer brands and just the way the G is designed....I have a phoenix trailer.Comment
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The roller is the problem, I have one on my 206 trailer and absolutely hate it. What works way better is the crashpad style bowstop like pictured below but taller stops preferably. The only down side of the crash pad is if it is the fixed style your cover may need to go on before you bring it tight to the carpet.
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The work around is load exactly like Red describes, this is also the only way to load at a launch that does not allow power loading. A bit more of a PITA but you wont bugger up your rub rail/bow or scratch your hull, which is much more noticeable if hull is colored.
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The old style 'Ramp N Clamp' used to have a limit of less than what most modern wakeboats weigh. It was called a Boat Buddy and MC was pretty fond of those back 10 years ago. I considered it with a few of my previous boats, but they were all heavier than that, so the thought didn't stick. I am a little surprised that the Ramp N Clamp does not list a weight limit on their websites...They sure do not know their audience very well.Originally posted by RTS DC View PostComment
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I am using Ramp-N-Clamp on my 2017 SAN 230 and really like it so far. Easy to put the boat on and off of the trailer without ever needing to get in the water.
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Got any pics? What brand of trailer? How many times have you used it?Originally posted by GemCitySurf View PostComment
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Boatmate. Brand new, so have only used it a handful of times so far. Again, really like it. Only thing I did wrong was forgot to put some lube on it before use. The material rubbed off on my hull, but that will come off and I will apply some lube to ensure it won't happen again.Originally posted by markj
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