2016 G23--What's on the bottom of the hull?

[Johnny_Rock]

Reconfiguring my boat lift for a 2016 G23. What is on the bottom of the boat that I need to be aware of when setting up the bunks? Thanks.

[charlesml3]

Reconfiguring my boat lift for a 2016 G23. What is on the bottom of the boat that I need to be aware of when setting up the bunks? Thanks.

The best way to do this is contact your dealer and have them walk out to a G23 on a trailer and measure the bunk width inside-to-inside. It's probably going to be 32 inches but double-check with your dealer.

-Charles

[GMLIII]

I would echo what Charlesml3 explained above. I just did the same in reconfiguring my lift and cradle to my G23. As far as the bunks, Two 2 x 10 were used on each bunk(side by side), I had my steel beam on my back cradle lower in the middle for protection should the boat come up on the cradle too much possibilly damaging the shaft or prop. Since the G23 weights 5900 lbs my 1 hp lift motor struggled to lift the G23 and would bind while raising. To help with the binding/weight issue, my lift repair person installed a new heavy duty pipe bushings and increased the pipe bushings from a total of 3 to 4 . In total the pipe which rolls the stainless steel cable has 4 bushings supports and Since the reconfirguring my lift works great with the new G23

[XBIGPUN66]

I used the measurement of the width of the trailer bunks and depth to bottom of trailer to configure my hoist bunks.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

[mlsurfco]

I can try to measure mine tomorrow. Send me a text to remind me six 12 38 one 4nine4nine. I went back and forth on my g21 and know how frustrating it can be. This site has been awesome to me w these type of questions.

[GMLIII]

If you are reconfiguring your bunks for a G23 coming off of a much lighter boat like me; the support bushings holding up your pipe which spins the stainless steel cable are just as importnant to reconfigure. As I memtioned above, I added an addtional support bushing plus I replaced the others with some which were more heavy duty than what I had prior to the G23. The lift motor and cable pipe spin much more freely now without binding issues.

[Johnny_Rock]

This site has been awesome to me w these type of questions.

I agree--just about every time I log in.

Appreciate all the help so far--perhaps I wasn't totally clear with my initial question. (Between me and the guy that sold me the lift--we can probably measure the trailer and get the bunks pretty close to a good position; I've asked him to consult the lift manufacturer as well.)

I'm wondering what physically is on the bottom of the boat that is at risk for any damage when pulling the boat into the lift; or onto the trailer. (Besides the skeg, the shaft and the prop/rudder.)

I also mean if someone might accidentally wind it up (or pull the trailer out) with it cockeyed.

Part of the reason for my question is that I'm having some issues with the trailer as well. Because some of the bolt-on parts have moved due the weight of the boat. Hoping to post some pictures soon.

Hopefully this makes my question more clear. Thanks.

[charlesml3]

I'm wondering what physically is on the bottom of the boat that is at risk for any damage when pulling the boat into the lift; or onto the trailer. (Besides the skeg, the shaft and the prop/rudder.)

I also mean if someone might accidentally wind it up (or pull the trailer out) with it cockeyed.

Nothing as long as you have the bunks at the right width and don't let the boat get on it leaned way over. You have to be aware and get it on the lift properly. You'd have to be WAY over for a bunk to land on a fitting or something.

-Charles

[Johnny_Rock]

One pic from each side:

Looks like purple is transducer for depth finder; green is main t drain; yellow is three ballast drains; red is the screen/pickup for ballast inlet. Correct?

I'm assuming best bunk lift set up would be wide enough to miss all of it; Ballast drains might not be a big deal--but best to avoid as much as possible.

Any thoughts/suggestions/comments?

Thanks.

[nohlan_4]

One pic from each side:

Looks like purple is transducer for depth finder; green is main t drain; yellow is three ballast drains; red is the screen/pickup for ballast inlet. Correct?

I'm assuming best bunk lift set up would be wide enough to miss all of it; Ballast drains might not be a big deal--but best to avoid as much as possible.

Any thoughts/suggestions/comments?

Thanks.

Just like every said measure trailer bunks. Your trailer bunks miss all of the underwater gear you pointed out.

[Beg4wake]

I would echo what Charlesml3 explained above. I just did the same in reconfiguring my lift and cradle to my G23. As far as the bunks, Two 2 x 10 were used on each bunk(side by side), I had my steel beam on my back cradle lower in the middle for protection should the boat come up on the cradle too much possibilly damaging the shaft or prop. Since the G23 weights 5000 lbs my 1 hp lift motor struggled to lift the G23 and would bind while raising. To help with the binding/weight issue, my lift repair person installed a new heavy duty pipe bushings and increased the pipe bushings from a total of 3 to 4 . In total the pipe which rolls the stainless steel cable has 4 bushings supports and Since the reconfirguring my lift works great with the new G23

You wouldn't happen to have any pics of your set up would you?!! I'm looking at a lake house right now and the dock has a lift which is plenty big enough but I don't think the lift system is quite strong enough for my boat. Also some pics of your bunks and widths between if you have any! I'm planning on probably needing to spend about $7k to upgrade the system, but if I'm going to do it, I want it done right!