94 sport nautique

[chefred112]

Dash and interior looks identical to my 95 Super Sport

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[Tom_H]

Looks like an early model with an engine swap. Correct me if I'm wrong, but is the little button in front of throttle leaver not for cold start on a carby engine? I used to have a 93 Sport and looked just like that. I paid 7k for that and it was real beat up! This boat for 3k is unbelievable!


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Pretty much all inboards of that time-frame, and many now, have a throttle where you can disengage the transmission and rev, regardless of carb or efi. It's handy especially for running on the hose when you want to get the rpm's up, but that's just a standard morse throttle that pretty much every inboard back then had.

Regarding model year, I'm thinking it's a 95 or newer based on the gel lines.

[Blamey]

Looks like an early model with an engine swap. Sent from my iPad using PLT Nautique

I think you are right. The engine is a GT40 with FCC and has the newer plastic cover (from 1998 I think). The color does look more like a 93 or 94. Also he engine box doesn't have cup holders, so that would make is a 93,94 or 95.

So probably a 94 with a new engine or a 95 with engine updates.

[Florida Rider]

I think it's a 1995. I had mine for 15 years and it was a great boat. That one needs some tlc.

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[MJB]

Can you get us a pic of the serial number? It will be located on the starboard (right) side of the stern under the platform.




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[843_NAUTIQUE]

So I finally got the boat home. I'm looking to replace all the interior. What is my best route and what should I expect to pay.

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[843_NAUTIQUE]

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[rossrips7]

If you want oem interior you are looking around 2500-4K I would guess. If you decide against it, I’m in columbia and would take the boat off your hands


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[843_NAUTIQUE]

I'm thinking of going single color

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[Blamey]

Cheapest would be to find a local marine upolsteror with good references and go to them for a quote.

A good upolsteror can do amazing work.

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[Blamey]

There used to be a business called Christine's Marine who used to do skins for all older Nautique boats. She was licensed to do the logo and apparently was sold the old patterns once Nautique stop using them. They also had info on which vinyl colours best match the original colors. Getting vinyl the same color as what you currently have is a pain. If you wanted the boat to look factory new, they were the place to go.

She retired last year and sold the business to C&S marine.

Not many people have used C&S yet as they are new so it's unclear if they do the same quality who as Christine's.

They are not cheap. The sell a full Sport Nautique interior for about 3k and then you still need to install it or pay someone to install it, probably another 1k to install of about 20hours work if you do it yourself.

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[843_NAUTIQUE]

So I took the boat and put it on the water. First off it didn't crank and when I checked engine the raw water pump wasn't spinning. Also there was a spout in the back of the engine bay that water was coming through. There is a clear hose laying in the bottom with a hose clamp on it but I'm really not familiar with these kind of boats. Any suggestions on were to start.

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[Blamey]

Didn't crank or didn't fire? If it didnt crank then it wasn't turning over and the pump wouldn't spin. If it cranked but didn't fire then you need to check why the water pump isn't turning. Can you turn it by hand(may need to loosen on the belt)

Can you get a picture of the spout, there are generally two holes one is the drain hole and you should have a brass t-plug to plug the hole when the boat is in the water.

The second hole would be for the water intake. The is where the water for the boat is fed and it should go from the hull to the water strainer, then the transmission, then the raw water pump.


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[Blamey]

If the engine is turning and not firing the first thing I would check is the kill swich.behind the throttle there should be a black button looking thing. This should have a red landyard attached (Google kill switch boat for examples).

If the switch is working and the lanyard is attached the engine will turn over but won't fire. You'll need to get a lanyard for the switch but can also bypass it for testing.



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[Tom_H]

Pictures of the engine and surrounding area would be a good place to start, as we can tell you where hoses need to be. Your raw water pump intake may not be attached (someone may have pulled it to winterize). Regarding the raw water pump - it'll only spin if the engine is cranking or running. If you didn't get a crank (which is wasn't clear if you did or not), there'd be no spin, as Blamey mentioned. If it wasn't spinning during cranking, check that the belt is tight enough. Many people, myself included, relax the belts when the boat won't be run for a while. There's two bolts that mount the water pump - you'll notice one is in a slotted hole to allow you to tension the belt - should be tight enough that you only get around a half inch deflection when you push on it.

Do you know how long this boat has sat without running? If you don't know, I'd be looking to do a few things before you run/try to run it.

- replace impeller
- replace v-belts (for alternator and raw water pump)
- replace cap and rotor
- change oil/filter
- change transmission fluid
- consider plugs (and wires)
- replace fuel filter(s)
- deal with potentially old/stale fuel

On these boats, it's very important that there's no air leaks in the raw water inlet. The most common place to suck air is at the inlet strainer (make sure the bowl is tight and that the o-ring/gasket is in place). I would rig up some way to run on the hose in your driveway for testing/troubleshooting. That could be sticking the inlet in a bucket of water that's being replenished by the hose, a fake-a-lake, or plumbing in a flush/tee fitting/valve into your intake line.