Average Top Speed for 2003 SANTE?

[Rockymtnsurfer]

Interesting enough Funk ....I am close....problem for me is the nearest dealership is 4 hrs and $..labor...but I think today was the last try. After this weekend, the boat probably won't get used for the rest of the year. Denver or Grand Junction...we will see. If anyone has preferred places...love to hear it. Hopefully like you said, something simple.

I do have to make two comments:

1. as a self employed person with some time on his hands, and a newbe in this type of boat and engine, I have really learned a lot about how this boat works. I have owned toys before that I have no clue how they work.....never really liked it......so this has been great and I look forward to more years with this boat. BOY its almost new LOL.

2. The fact that this site is averrable for lame people like myself to chirp their problems to.......PRICELESS ....Thank you and JEFF

This morning I replaced the high and low fuel pumps......ACTUALLY checked that hose Funt ov fash.....everything went smooth. Low pump still had a painted seal on screws....figured it might be original?

Did learn something to pass on.....low pump is cake to take out when the canister and high pump are out......

Primed everything, hooked up to hose....and ran it

sounds quiet..... smooth.....purrs..........fuel pressure solid 52

1000-3500....was sounding and is sounding great.

Wow...4000.....first time its done it on land test........started to sputter a little
being a newbe.....slowed it down and let it cool off....I wasn't sure if I was over heating it or something with the hose not being able to catch up.

[Rockymtnsurfer]

Was able to duplicate it again....around 4000rpm.

being a little disappointed, I shut her down, cooled her off.......btw the fuel pressure held 52 the whole time, and didn't seem to jump at all when it sputtered.


Looked at what Charlie P suggested.........how hard is it to come out, the rotor shaft part. looks like one bolt?

Anyhow.....that another $250 and I think I would have to overnight it.....so I think that its for this season......we will just surf for this trip and tough luck for the tubers

Charlie P......I do still want to check mine part out to see if that could be bad. It looks like it does have teeth that could get worn.....possibility.

Thanks
D

[homer12]

If you can take some video of the problems, that might help give others something to look at.


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[CharlieP]

I understand they make the teeth out of bronze so they wear out before the cam shaft gear. Not hard to replace. Here's a nice how to video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5a2X9mSSlQY

[Rockymtnsurfer]

I am not sure if anyone cares.....but.....I finally found out my speed problem...and the brake like feeling I had and the troubleshooting ALL summer long.

I finally took it to a dealer...they spent a lot of time going through the electrical hook ups and this is what they found. In the picture there are two female plugs with green wires and 1 male. Someone.....and this could have been me not sure because I did so much work on it....plugged the male end to the female with the silver tape on it. The male plug had silver tape on it too, so it looked like it made sense that they should be connected. They all had green wires too. Turns out...they shouldn't be connected. Maybe someone else can explain it better than me, but when it was plugged in, it told the engine to cut out at a certain RPM.....higher end of course. So..when I was going at higher speeds, it would reach a point then slow then speed up..then slow. Very similar to when a rotor cap needs to be replaced.

Technician pulled them apart.....he went to the lake for a test ride.....BAMM...that was it. Runs great, fast...slow...surf...ski.....HOLLA LOO YA!

Anyone feel free to chime in if they know what these are exactly. The Tech has been gone for the winter at the marine shop, and I never got the full detail!

D

[functionoverfashion]

That wouldn't be from the knock sensor, would it? I'm wondering if the issue isn't that they were plugged in and shouldn't have been, but rather, a sensor is/was giving a faulty reading and causing the issue you're describing. By disconnecting the faulty sensor, it runs better but then the ECM or whatever isn't getting any info from that sensor.

Please keep in mind this is COMPLETE speculation. But I'm curious what that wire is, and if the problem is solved or just sort of bypassed. At least the boat runs well and you've narrowed it down to this single thing, which is a big win.

[Rockymtnsurfer]

awesome comments! I rally like your thinking! I am calling now to speak to the tech to get detailed info....I really appreciate your thought process. I will keep you posted. D

[Rockymtnsurfer]

ok....Function......you made me want to really understand this better than....IT WORKS Here is the receipt and I spoke directly to the tech. someone else might be able to explain this better than them...and me, but I believe the gist was:

ACX to oil pressure switch wire was grounded (due to me or someone else connecting the silver foil female and male ends.) It created erratic cam retard signals and erratic RPM in ECM.

The tech explained to me ( and I am not sure if he is correct or not) that this year motor? or something of this sort, didn't need to be grounded. The grounding was creating a fault and it would correct itself? and then fault again....correct itself then fault again due to heat? or rpm? That is what was causing the surge, brake like effect.

Does any of this make sense to you.....it sure doesn't for me....but that is definitely not saying much. Does anyone make sense of this? Thanks function ! D

[beamons]

It was sending a signal to the ECM to go into limp mode. In limp mode you can run it but not above a certain rpm. The 30 min of smooth running was from whatever the sensor did, did not occur until it reached its threshold.


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[Rockymtnsurfer]

thank you for the feedback......makes more sense.....and assuming the green wire connection was making that occur......do you know what all tree green wires are? thank you for your time! D

[beamons]

I can't quite make out where that is on your engine. It could be oil pressure, knock sensor, water temp sensor. If I were to guess it was the knock sensor like functionoverfashion said because the others would have given you a readout or no readout.

[Rockymtnsurfer]

Its making a lot more sense now....I really think you could be correct......a friend was going to send me wiring specs.....location is port side below v-drive cooling tube and under oil lines port side. I really do appreciate your comments...thanks again! D BTW getting it ready to head up to flaming gorge in a few weeks.....sort of in your neck of the woods...I guess depending on where in UT.Thanks again

[functionoverfashion]

I can't quite make out where that is on your engine. It could be oil pressure, knock sensor, water temp sensor. If I were to guess it was the knock sensor like functionoverfashion said because the others would have given you a readout or no readout.

Also, the work order said "no tach or temp at dash" - is that new? Or was it like that last summer?

Don't get me wrong, I'm psyched the boat is running well again! Just more curiosity... I also have the same exact boat so I'm especially curious out of self-interest.

[MTRBTR]

Curious what your max speed is with that prop at your elevation

[Rockymtnsurfer]

Also, the work order said "no tach or temp at dash" - is that new? Or was it like that last summer?

Don't get me wrong, I'm psyched the boat is running well again! Just more curiosity... I also have the same exact boat so I'm especially curious out of self-interest.

Dash is sporadic on off and needs the Faria replacement.......when it pops on it very close to the perfect pass readings. So it had been like that all summer