Need help with 2018 g23 surf wave

[Nick531]

Thank you all for the responses much appreciated. I’d say me an my wife are novice surfers. Not doing tricks but definitely know how to ride. I should revise the pocket of push response... there’s a good amount of push close to the boat. I’d say middle of wave it drops out. One little mistake even a tiny tiny duck in the nose an your off the wave or your on the gas trying to stay on. The ballast does spew out when reaches 100% capacity. This is our first out of the box surf boat. So maybe just need to get used to it. But from what everyone says there should be a good amount of push though out most the wave an we’re just not getting it. Like I said before it could totally be me just not knowing what to do. I’ve tried alot of settings an the wave has definitely improved from the first time out. But I’m glad I’m able to surf a 2019 tomorrow an compare to my boat. Going to have some experienced G owners on my boat tomorrow helping me set it up. My wife can stay on the wave a lot easier then me but she also said that tiny mistakes make it hard to stay on the wave. I ride a pot belly rocket 4’8 I’m 6,3 215 Ibs my wife rides a 4,5 women’s koal fish. She’s 5’6 125Ibs Thank you all again for taking the time to help me out. Really appreciate all your advice and questions

[Nick531]

I ride goofy an my wife rides regular

[Tallredrider]

I would also suggest it is important to solve this correctly or you will have issues of having to relearn how to surf down the road. For example: many people flatten the wave by speeding up the boat. This works, but then trying to do 360s, ride revert, and other tricks becomes infinitely more difficult because the faster you go the easier it is to catch an edge and fall. Most of the worlds best surfers ride between 10.8 and 11.3. Going faster will become problematic as you progress.

I am going to have to revisit my 12MPH approach. Thank you Gregg for the information. I will be your humble Padawan. Maybe that is also why doing a 360 seems so hard...It couldn't be that I am old and uncoordinated.

I sometimes wonder if my NSS and NCRS are doing what they are supposed to because going through the range from 0-5 on either one makes trivial visible changes in my wave. I was able to put the boat in dealer mode and move the NSS and NCRS while on the trailer, but I am told that they do not move the full range in that mode, it is just for checking to see if they move. And mine do move in that mode, albeit in very short increments. I will try slowing down and playing with NSS and NCRS and see what happens. Perhaps going too fast also decreases the effectiveness of the NSS and NCRS?

[GMLIII]

I am going to have to revisit my 12MPH approach. Thank you Gregg for the information. I will be your humble Padawan. Maybe that is also why doing a 360 seems so hard...It couldn't be that I am old and uncoordinated.

I sometimes wonder if my NSS and NCRS are doing what they are supposed to because going through the range from 0-5 on either one makes trivial visible changes in my wave. I was able to put the boat in dealer mode and move the NSS and NCRS while on the trailer, but I am told that they do not move the full range in that mode, it is just for checking to see if they move. And mine do move in that mode, albeit in very short increments. I will try slowing down and playing with NSS and NCRS and see what happens. Perhaps going too fast also decreases the effectiveness of the NSS and NCRS?

I will second this. In attempting to learn my 360 on my skim style board I did bump to the speed up to 12 mph to elongate the wave and had 100% ballast in the belly and only 75 ballast in the rear. I have no problem getting around on the 360 but I can not hold it and loss all my wave push then I sink. I will try slowing back down to 11.2 mph .
Maybe the speed of 12 MPH makes the board get caught up in the wave during my spin vs going at a slower speed? I try this trick everytime I'm out on my skim board, but it is still a struggle for me ; maybe like Tallredrider said it is an age thing .

[greggmck]

... My wife can stay on the wave a lot easier then me but she also said that tiny mistakes make it hard to stay on the wave. I ride a pot belly rocket 4�8 I�m 6,3 215 Ibs my wife rides a 4,5 women�s koal fish. She�s 5�6 125Ibs Thank you all again for taking the time to help me out. Really appreciate all your advice and questions

Because you and your wife are of very different size you clearly want to have two different settings for each of you. I need to know if you ride regular or goofy to be more specific but here are some guidelines.

Let's start with you.(Assuming you surf regular and only have 2 or 4 people in the boat). Begin with NSS 0, NCRS 5 all ballast full. Speed 11.3 mph. The wave will be steep but don't worry about that now.

Toss out the rope while you are running your boat with a surf wave. Adjust your rope length so that the rope is one-two feet in front of the rear-most section of the wave, just before the curl/wash at the back of the wave. NEVER loop up a rope that is too long while you are riding. Adjust it immediately. Too many people loop the rope to take up the slack. Then they fall, the rope wraps around their arm and they get a nasty shoulder or elbow dislocation. This is a novice move you never want to do.

Begin surfing with your front foot ankle bone aligned with or just near the center line of the board. This is key to insure you have toe-side pressure on your board. For your rear foot, also slide it closer to the wave. On most boards this means your toes may reach over the rear traction pad. In this position bend your knees and put your weight evenly on the balls of your feet as if you are preparing to shoot a jump shot. Relax. You should be able to sit on the wave in a relaxed position and the rope should slacken indicating the wave is doing all of the work. You should not need to pump unless you are in a strong headwind.

With strong toe side pressure your board will climb up the wave as gravity pulls you down, reaching equilibrium. In this foot position you should be able to surf as long as you want without losing the wave. Once you have found this "push" from the wave it's time to toss the rope.

Most beginners surf too close to the boat. You want to learn to use all of the wave and trust the wave will push you across the full length of the wave. This will accelerate your skills.

Start practicing moving up closer to the boat by putting more weight on your front foot. Brake by shifting weight to your back foot. Practice until you are comfortable sliding close to the back of the boat and then all the way to the end of the wave.

Now practice going up the wave and back down. Carving more aggressively as you get comfortable. In about 5-10 days of practice you should be able to play on the entire wave.

As you get better begin to flatten the wave to NCRS 4 or even 3. The first trick everyone wants to learn is the 360. And it's easier on a slow, flat wave. The key to nailing this trick is to keep your head and shoulders OVER your board. Everyone (myself included) bends over and looks down when learning this trick. This puts too much pressure on the toe side of your board and you carve a turn off the wave. Video yourself to make sure you are squatting down not bending over, keeping your eyes, head and shoulders up and centered over your board. It helps greatly if you can turn your head before you turn your board to spot the boat before your board comes around. To initiate the trick begin with slow forward momentum, squat down, place both arms behind you, turn your head and grab the wave with just your rear hand. Don't push your arm into the wave, just your hand. Turn your head around to spot the boat, eyes on the horizon.

Connor Burns has a good video on learning the 360. See https://m.youtube.com/channel/UC0axDutz8heEDISsHxz-sKQ

For your wife set the NSS to 0, NCRS to 3 and drop the speed to 11.0.

If you surf goofy start with 80% ballast on the goofy side all other tanks full. You may need to go to 70% if the wave is too steep.

Don't worry about lead weight at this point but if you do get weight put it under the middle/front of the boat NOT in the rear lockers. Bias about 200 to 300lbs on the regular side to offset prop torque. A good starting configuration is 100lbs front regular side 300 lbs middle regular side, 100 lbs front goofy, 100 lbs middle goofy.

Good luck and please share your progress here!

Gregg McKnight

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

[GMLIII]

Thanks Gregg will review the Conner Burns 360 video and practice having my shoulders and head more over the board which I had not been doing in the past.

[SoCal G-Man]

Because you and your wife are of very different size you clearly want to have two different settings for each of you. I need to know if you ride regular or goofy to be more specific but here are some guidelines.

Let's start with you.(Assuming you surf regular and only have 2 or 4 people in the boat). Begin with NSS 0, NCRS 5 all ballast full. Speed 11.3 mph. The wave will be steep but don't worry about that now.

Toss out the rope while you are running your boat with a surf wave. Adjust your rope length so that the rope is one-two feet in front of the rear-most section of the wave, just before the curl/wash at the back of the wave. NEVER loop up a rope that is too long while you are riding. Adjust it immediately. Too many people loop the rope to take up the slack. Then they fall, the rope wraps around their arm and they get a nasty shoulder or elbow dislocation. This is a novice move you never want to do.

Begin surfing with your front foot ankle bone aligned with or just near the center line of the board. This is key to insure you have toe-side pressure on your board. For your rear foot, also slide it closer to the wave. On most boards this means your toes may reach over the rear traction pad. In this position bend your knees and put your weight evenly on the balls of your feet as if you are preparing to shoot a jump shot. Relax. You should be able to sit on the wave in a relaxed position and the rope should slacken indicating the wave is doing all of the work. You should not need to pump unless you are in a strong headwind.

With strong toe side pressure your board will climb up the wave as gravity pulls you down, reaching equilibrium. In this foot position you should be able to surf as long as you want without losing the wave. Once you have found this "push" from the wave it's time to toss the rope.

Most beginners surf too close to the boat. You want to learn to use all of the wave and trust the wave will push you across the full length of the wave. This will accelerate your skills.

Start practicing moving up closer to the boat by putting more weight on your front foot. Brake by shifting weight to your back foot. Practice until you are comfortable sliding close to the back of the boat and then all the way to the end of the wave.

Now practice going up the wave and back down. Carving more aggressively as you get comfortable. In about 5-10 days of practice you should be able to play on the entire wave.

As you get better begin to flatten the wave to NCRS 4 or even 3. The first trick everyone wants to learn is the 360. And it's easier on a slow, flat wave. The key to nailing this trick is to keep your head and shoulders OVER your board. Everyone (myself included) bends over and looks down when learning this trick. This puts too much pressure on the toe side of your board and you carve a turn off the wave. Video yourself to make sure you are squatting down not bending over, keeping your eyes, head and shoulders up and centered over your board. It helps greatly if you can turn your head before you turn your board to spot the boat before your board comes around. To initiate the trick begin with slow forward momentum, squat down, place both arms behind you, turn your head and grab the wave with just your rear hand. Don't push your arm into the wave, just your hand. Turn your head around to spot the boat, eyes on the horizon.

Connor Burns has a good video on learning the 360. See https://m.youtube.com/channel/UC0axDutz8heEDISsHxz-sKQ

For your wife set the NSS to 0, NCRS to 3 and drop the speed to 11.0.

If you surf goofy start with 80% ballast on the goofy side all other tanks full. You may need to go to 70% if the wave is too steep.

Don't worry about lead weight at this point but if you do get weight put it under the middle/front of the boat NOT in the rear lockers. Bias about 200 to 300lbs on the regular side to offset prop torque. A good starting configuration is 100lbs front regular side 300 lbs middle regular side, 100 lbs front goofy, 100 lbs middle goofy.

Good luck and please share your progress here!

Gregg McKnight

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Excellent instruction!!! Thank you.

[Nick531]

We went out Wednesday an there was a nautique rep there. Me my wife an the rep went out for a surf run on my boat. With just 2 people in the boat the wave was the best I’ve riden so far. I was able to get far back in the wave pump through drop down an do my fun carves. It was a blast. Was amazed how sensitive they are to weight. Just him moving around the boat changed the wave. Nss at 0 an Ncrs at 3 or 4 at 11.4 was perfect. I was so confused because I’ve ran those setting but with more people in the boat. He explained where I should keep the people an how to balance the boat. Told me some setting to run when I have more people in the boat. Now that I’m use to the wave I love it. An I think that’s how it goes for most. It’s not a big round boring easy wave to ride. Once you get used to the steepness it’s a blast! An when it’s set up right. An my wife loves it too. The rep rode my ronix pop belly rocket an loved it. Nautique rep name was Greg out of Washington. He was extremely friendly an helpful. Everyone in the nautique family has been great an I really appreciate everyone taking the time to help me out on this site.

[Nick531]

[thejean]

Gorgeous colours!!!!

[Sailfun]

Can you tell us a bit about what the rep said if you have more people in the boat?

[xxrb2010]

I am gonna rant (G21 here),

I like people advising XX% between 0 and 100. The % indication is only an indication and a very bad one. Check when you just arrive at 100% if your ballast overflow on the side (assuming pump still running). It never happened on mine excalty at 100%. Ok I am closer to 100% than 50% as someone mentionned in the thread but never at 100%. I always need to let the pump running pass 100%. It is even worst as none of the 3 pumps works the same.

Same again, empty up to 0% and stop the pump. Then put your boat on a lift or trailer and start emptying again. I bet you will still have water to empty out of your ballast. I did the test many times and always have water in my ballasts even if the indication was 0%.

So here is my advice, just go always full ballast that is until all 3 ballasts overflow with a nice full jet on the sides. This is the only repeatable and precise ballast indication you can get. Then use leads or people weight to tune your setting if needed. The prop rotation counter weight is all what I have in term of lead on mine.

End of my rant,

[SM]

Greggmck! How about some surf lessons?

[Tallredrider]

I am gonna rant (G21 here),

I like people advising XX% between 0 and 100. The % indication is only an indication and a very bad one. Check when you just arrive at 100% if your ballast overflow on the side (assuming pump still running). It never happened on mine excalty at 100%. Ok I am closer to 100% than 50% as someone mentionned in the thread but never at 100%. I always need to let the pump running pass 100%. It is even worst as none of the 3 pumps works the same.

Same again, empty up to 0% and stop the pump. Then put your boat on a lift or trailer and start emptying again. I bet you will still have water to empty out of your ballast. I did the test many times and always have water in my ballasts even if the indication was 0%.

So here is my advice, just go always full ballast that is until all 3 ballasts overflow with a nice full jet on the sides. This is the only repeatable and precise ballast indication you can get. Then use leads or people weight to tune your setting if needed. The prop rotation counter weight is all what I have in term of lead on mine.

End of my rant,

Let me start by saying I agree with you. I fill my ballast full, and never look back. For newbies or small people, I go with zero ballast until they get up consistently and have the ability to even find a sweet spot.

Having said all that, my ballast gauges are pretty darn accurate. I would give it a ten percent accurate range. I pretty much can guarantee that within 20 seconds of my gauges saying I am full, the overflow is going full blast. I may be lucky, I don't know. At the bottom end, not perfect, but that is because of the pump placement. To take it a step further, put the boat on the ramp and turn on the pumps, and even more water will come out if the boat is on the incline, but on my boat, it is not more than 50 pounds of water in most instances.

But I think it is not any need to rant. I am pretty sure that if I put my ballast at 70% today, the same % tomorrow would be pretty close. And if you want to do that, it doesn't make a lot of sense, but feel free to do so.

[xxrb2010]

Let me start by saying I agree with you. I fill my ballast full, and never look back. For newbies or small people, I go with zero ballast until they get up consistently and have the ability to even find a sweet spot.

Having said all that, my ballast gauges are pretty darn accurate. I would give it a ten percent accurate range. I pretty much can guarantee that within 20 seconds of my gauges saying I am full, the overflow is going full blast. I may be lucky, I don't know. At the bottom end, not perfect, but that is because of the pump placement. To take it a step further, put the boat on the ramp and turn on the pumps, and even more water will come out if the boat is on the incline, but on my boat, it is not more than 50 pounds of water in most instances.

But I think it is not any need to rant. I am pretty sure that if I put my ballast at 70% today, the same % tomorrow would be pretty close. And if you want to do that, it doesn't make a lot of sense, but feel free to do so.

Definitively more accurate than mine, I have to wait between 2 minutes and 7 minutes between the 100% indication and the overflow at full blast depending on the pump.
My point was to always go full ballast, so I am not at all advising xx%, especially if your pumps are like mine .