Fresh water cooling vs. Closed system

[beamons]

Interesting responses. I expected a much more middle of the road response. But it sounds like that if I donÂ’t have those environments it is definitely not worth going with the coastal edition.



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[Evening Shade]

Interesting responses. I expected a much more middle of the road response. But it sounds like that if I donÂ’t have those environments it is definitely not worth going with the coastal edition.



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This is a somewhat different question than just closed vs. fresh water cooling systems. The coastal edition offers more than just closed cooling system. It also comes with sacrificial zinc anodes and some other differences that I can't recall right now.

Here are a couple of things I would consider:

Personally, in most cases, I think the coastal edition is a waste of money UNLESS you live near salt water or plan to use the boat in a salt environment. If you can get a great deal on a used CE boat that's one thing, but I wouldn't buy a new coastal edition boat unless you live near salt water. Reason being is, unless you live in an area where the CE option fetches extra money at resale you might as well flush the money you spent on the CE option down the toilet. Buyers will compare a CE and non-CE boat as equal in terms of options and price because the CE really adds no real world value in a non-salt environment. If you can buy a used coastal edition boat that's never been in salt water for the same price as a comparable non-coastal edition boat go for it.

Having said that, I would rather have a non-coastal edition boat that's never been in salt water over a coastal edition boat that's been in salt water most of its life. Even CE boats need extra maintenance when used in salt water. Ideally the cooling system should be flushed with fresh water after each use in salt water. A practice that I'm sure many people don't do regularly.

[GMLIII]

This is a somewhat different question than just closed vs. fresh water cooling systems. The coastal edition offers more than just closed cooling system. It also comes with sacrificial zinc anodes and some other differences that I can't recall right now.

Here are a couple of things I would consider:

Personally, in most cases, I think the coastal edition is a waste of money UNLESS you live near salt water or plan to use the boat in a salt environment. If you can get a great deal on a used CE boat that's one thing, but I wouldn't buy a new coastal edition boat unless you live near salt water. Reason being is, unless you live in an area where the CE option fetches extra money at resale you might as well flush the money you spent on the CE option down the toilet. Buyers will compare a CE and non-CE boat as equal in terms of options and price because the CE really adds no real world value in a non-salt environment. If you can buy a used coastal edition boat that's never been in salt water for the same price as a comparable non-coastal edition boat go for it.

Having said that, I would rather have a non-coastal edition boat that's never been in salt water over a coastal edition boat that's been in salt water most of its life. Even CE boats need extra maintenance when used in salt water. Ideally the cooling system should be flushed with fresh water after each use in salt water. A practice that I'm sure many people don't do regularly.

Yeah the Coastal has the anodes as you stated plus:a built in flush system for fresh water, all windshield frames and tower use powder coated paint, all seat cushion use stainless steel gas shocks rather than plastic shocks, bow drain does not drain into the bilge area both rather separate drain pipes existing from the stern of the boat. It is approx a +/- $5,000.00 option package

[Infinity]

I have the "partial" closed cooled system in my ZR409...heater is closed cooled and engine is raw water cooled. To me, its the best of both worlds and really easy to winterize, has been very reliable for me and plenty of power for my boat at 800ft elevation, my home lake in NC is Lake Norman...the highest I have taken my boat is 1200ft elevation in TN and I noticed no power difference there tho that is not much of a change... I know the ZR409 engine is no longer an option in many of the newer boats and the H6 has more power if you have elevation and is supposed to be more efficient.

[beamons]

I have the "partial" closed cooled system in my ZR409...heater is closed cooled and engine is raw water cooled. To me, its the best of both worlds and really easy to winterize, has been very reliable for me and plenty of power for my boat at 800ft elevation, my home lake in NC is Lake Norman...the highest I have taken my boat is 1200ft elevation in TN and I noticed no power difference there tho that is not much of a change... I know the ZR409 engine is no longer an option in many of the newer boats and the H6 has more power if you have elevation and is supposed to be more efficient.

I am not sure if I know of that setup? Is just your heater in the closed system?

[Evening Shade]

I believe with the ZR409, the engine and heater are closed cooled while the exhaust manifolds, transmission, V-drive, and heat exchager are raw water cooled.

[oldsmobiledriver]

This^
And I believe there are only 4-5 drain points for the raw water.


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[Infinity]

I am not sure if I know of that setup? Is just your heater in the closed system?

Evening Shade is correct. The heater and engine is part of the closed cool system with exhaust manifold & risers, v-drive, trans and 1 side of the heat exchanger.
There are 6 plugs to remove to drain water which only takes 15-20mins....1 under v-drive, 2 @ exhaust risers, 2 @ exhaust manifolds and 1 @ heat exchanger. Then you remove the hose off bottom of the water pump to drain impeller. I start at top to remove plugs and work my way down....then also put shot vacuum at each hole to suck out any residual water, then replace the plugs and usually I do not pull the hose for the impeller since I then suck up AF into the system. I actually use a Harbor Freight water transfer pump to "push in" the AF since once you remove the water, it does not like to re-prime itself and suck in the AF by itself if I just use gravity...assume its cause the impeller is sucking air at that point.
I replace my impeller and 2 fuel filters in the Spring but change my engine oil/filter before winterizing). In Spring, I just hook up water hose and fire it up in the driveway to remove the non-toxic AF before going to lake. I would do this anyway to make sure engine is running right before heading to the lake. This is also the time I change my impeller and fuel filters (FCC filter and fuel/water separator filter).
Probably not much easier than draining the H5 or H6, but I like having brass plugs so you cant strip the blue plugs and I usually put some white pipe dope on my plugs before re-installing to make sure there are no air leaks later.