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I recently received a new PerfectPass Stargazer system for my 1999 Ski Nautique Open Bow, and I wanted to document the installation procedure so that others will know just how easy it is to install PerfectPass.
This is the latest iteration of PerfectPass Stargazer 3-Event, version 9.2s.
I have completed several installations of PerfectPass over the years, and it is really very easy to install and configure.
The components consist of the servo motor and cable, the master module, the GPS receiver, and the display.
I started with mounting the display.
First, I removed the dashboard from the Ski Nautique. This can be done by removing the four thumb screws holding the dash in place, lifting it off, and disconnecting the three plugs connecting the wiring harness to the dash.
You will also need to disconnect the two rubber speedometer lines that connect the speedometers to the pitot tubes at the back of the boat.
At this point, the dash should be free, and you can remove it and take it to a comfortable place to work.
Here's the dashboard from my 1999 SNOB:
Next, I removed the right speedometer. To do that, simply disconnect the wire for the light, and remove the two small nuts holding the support bracket in place.
The gauge can then be pulled through the front of the dashboard.
Insert the PerfectPass display into the hole where the speedometer was, and align it so that it is straight. Install the supplied support bracket and tighten the small nuts to hold it in place.
Next, wire in the power wires for the master module, as well as the RPM cable for the master module. These both connect to the back of the tachometer.
Power Wire Connectivity:
The purple wire from the power wire set goes to the IGN post on the tachometer. The black wire from the power wire set goes to the GND post on the tachometer.
RPM Wire Connectivity:
The gray wire from the RPM wire set goes to the SEND post on the tachometer. The black wire from the RPM wire set goes to the GND post on the tachometer.
It makes it easier to connect the wires if you remove the support bracket for the tachometer before starting the wiring.
Here's how the back of the tachometer will look when all of the wires are properly connected. The wires with the red connectors are the PerfectPass wires.
At this point, you'll have three sets of PerfectPass wires coming from the dash: power wires, RPM wires, and the display cable. All of these will connect to the master module.
I mounted the master module on top of the stereo head unit under the dash using adhesive velcro strips. That way it is out of the way, and won't be exposed to water.
The dash is now ready to be reinstalled in the boat.
Next I ran the servo motor cable from the engine area up to the dash. To do that, I used a wire snake and lots of patience. I always tape up the hook end on the wire snake so that it doesn't get hung on anything on the way to the engine compartment. Here's what it looked like when it came out under the engine.
Next, I carefully taped up the connector that will go to the master module, and pulled it through under the floor.
Here's how it looked when it came out under the dash.
Next, it was time to mount the servo motor. PerfectPass supplies two hose clamps that allow you to mount the servo motor to a cooling line on your engine. Be careful to route the wires away from anything that can snag them, and make sure that the cable has a nice smooth bend toward the throttle linkage on the engine.
Next, it is time to make a few changes to the way the throttle cable attaches. Here's my original setup.
Remove the throttle cable from the linkage by releasing the spring-loaded clip and pulling it from the ball. Remove the ball joint connector from the throttle cable and the ball from the throttle lever. On the GT-40, there are three positions on the throttle lever that can be used to connect the throttle cable. Mine was on the third hole (closest to the engine). PerfectPass recommends connecting their new linkage to the middle hole on the GT-40. Connect the L-Arm to the middle hole using an Allen key and a wrench. Make sure the L-Arm can swivel. Install the brass hex connector onto the throttle cable in place of the ball joint connector. Use the lock nut to hold it in the proper place.
Next, turn the knob on the servo motor to release a little bit of cable. Feed the cable through the slot in the bottom of the L-Arm, and tighten the two small nuts around the L-Arm. Adjust the brass hex connector so that there is no slack between it and the L-Arm.
That's it at the engine. Let's move on to the dash.
First, since you have removed one speedometer, you need to kink the rubber hose for the removed speedometer and zip tie it so that water doesn't come into the boat. This is important! Once done, you can just leave this behind the dash.
Next, run the cable from the servo motor up to the master module, and connect it. Also, connect the GPS puck to the master module, and install the puck just in front of the dashboard, under the windshield. Now it is time to reinstall the dashboard and check functionality!
By the time I was finished tonight, it was dark. My pictures aren't the best, but I will replace them with better, clearer pictures later.
Here's the dash with everything working!
When you first power up the PerfectPass, it will ask you to set the number of hours on the boat. Do that, and follow any other prompts you get. Once initial setup is complete, it'll look like this.
Like I mentioned earlier, it was dark by the time I completed the installation, so I didn't get to test it on the water tonight. I'll do that tomorrow though, and will post more pictures.
This is the latest iteration of PerfectPass Stargazer 3-Event, version 9.2s.
I have completed several installations of PerfectPass over the years, and it is really very easy to install and configure.
The components consist of the servo motor and cable, the master module, the GPS receiver, and the display.
I started with mounting the display.
First, I removed the dashboard from the Ski Nautique. This can be done by removing the four thumb screws holding the dash in place, lifting it off, and disconnecting the three plugs connecting the wiring harness to the dash.
You will also need to disconnect the two rubber speedometer lines that connect the speedometers to the pitot tubes at the back of the boat.
At this point, the dash should be free, and you can remove it and take it to a comfortable place to work.
Here's the dashboard from my 1999 SNOB:
Next, I removed the right speedometer. To do that, simply disconnect the wire for the light, and remove the two small nuts holding the support bracket in place.
The gauge can then be pulled through the front of the dashboard.
Insert the PerfectPass display into the hole where the speedometer was, and align it so that it is straight. Install the supplied support bracket and tighten the small nuts to hold it in place.
Next, wire in the power wires for the master module, as well as the RPM cable for the master module. These both connect to the back of the tachometer.
Power Wire Connectivity:
The purple wire from the power wire set goes to the IGN post on the tachometer. The black wire from the power wire set goes to the GND post on the tachometer.
RPM Wire Connectivity:
The gray wire from the RPM wire set goes to the SEND post on the tachometer. The black wire from the RPM wire set goes to the GND post on the tachometer.
It makes it easier to connect the wires if you remove the support bracket for the tachometer before starting the wiring.
Here's how the back of the tachometer will look when all of the wires are properly connected. The wires with the red connectors are the PerfectPass wires.
At this point, you'll have three sets of PerfectPass wires coming from the dash: power wires, RPM wires, and the display cable. All of these will connect to the master module.
I mounted the master module on top of the stereo head unit under the dash using adhesive velcro strips. That way it is out of the way, and won't be exposed to water.
The dash is now ready to be reinstalled in the boat.
Next I ran the servo motor cable from the engine area up to the dash. To do that, I used a wire snake and lots of patience. I always tape up the hook end on the wire snake so that it doesn't get hung on anything on the way to the engine compartment. Here's what it looked like when it came out under the engine.
Next, I carefully taped up the connector that will go to the master module, and pulled it through under the floor.
Here's how it looked when it came out under the dash.
Next, it was time to mount the servo motor. PerfectPass supplies two hose clamps that allow you to mount the servo motor to a cooling line on your engine. Be careful to route the wires away from anything that can snag them, and make sure that the cable has a nice smooth bend toward the throttle linkage on the engine.
Next, it is time to make a few changes to the way the throttle cable attaches. Here's my original setup.
Remove the throttle cable from the linkage by releasing the spring-loaded clip and pulling it from the ball. Remove the ball joint connector from the throttle cable and the ball from the throttle lever. On the GT-40, there are three positions on the throttle lever that can be used to connect the throttle cable. Mine was on the third hole (closest to the engine). PerfectPass recommends connecting their new linkage to the middle hole on the GT-40. Connect the L-Arm to the middle hole using an Allen key and a wrench. Make sure the L-Arm can swivel. Install the brass hex connector onto the throttle cable in place of the ball joint connector. Use the lock nut to hold it in the proper place.
Next, turn the knob on the servo motor to release a little bit of cable. Feed the cable through the slot in the bottom of the L-Arm, and tighten the two small nuts around the L-Arm. Adjust the brass hex connector so that there is no slack between it and the L-Arm.
That's it at the engine. Let's move on to the dash.
First, since you have removed one speedometer, you need to kink the rubber hose for the removed speedometer and zip tie it so that water doesn't come into the boat. This is important! Once done, you can just leave this behind the dash.
Next, run the cable from the servo motor up to the master module, and connect it. Also, connect the GPS puck to the master module, and install the puck just in front of the dashboard, under the windshield. Now it is time to reinstall the dashboard and check functionality!
By the time I was finished tonight, it was dark. My pictures aren't the best, but I will replace them with better, clearer pictures later.
Here's the dash with everything working!
When you first power up the PerfectPass, it will ask you to set the number of hours on the boat. Do that, and follow any other prompts you get. Once initial setup is complete, it'll look like this.
Like I mentioned earlier, it was dark by the time I completed the installation, so I didn't get to test it on the water tonight. I'll do that tomorrow though, and will post more pictures.
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