Replacement Graphics 2003 Nautique Super Air 210.

[Muskoka Ken]

[Muskoka Ken]

I removed pinstriping and main graphic in blue area. It looks to plain now and slight fade in blue gel coat is noticeable. Do I put back same graphic or would a more modern one work? In addition can I buy a complete window door replacement? Locks are broken off and frame is showing wear.

[NautiqueJeff]

The original graphic is the only one that will fit properly on an '03. You should buff the gelcoat to get rid of the fading before installing the new graphic.

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Use discount code PND when you order.

For the door, I would just pull it apart and have the frame powder coated. It'll look brand new.

[Alcottawa]

I'm going to be trying the more modern decaling on my 2002 SANTE in the spring, Ive ordered 3" domed letters and will see how they look, I've only got a two colour hull (grey and blue) It seems to look good in my head but we'll see haha,, if it doesnt seem to fit well anywhere I may do a partial wrap from the grey swoop to the back...

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[bturner]

I think as long as you do a contrasting color for the graphic you could get away with just about anything.

From a fading perspective..... cross blocking the affected area as well as about 2' all around it should greatly diminish the effects of fading around the decal. I start with with 1200 and work my way up to 2000 using a block to make sure I don't grove the surface in the process. I then move to the 3 step 3M paint finishing system products to finish off the surface and bring out the gel coat gloss.

https://www.autogeek.net/newsletter-...%3f+You+Decide!

I used this process to take off the multitude of warning stickers plastered all over the boat with very good results with many being on black gel coat which shows everything.

[Alcottawa]

Bturner, when you say cross blocking is that a sanding technique to feather it out a bit?

Btw - this forum is definitely one of the greatest assets to owning a nautique, so many knowledgeable folks on here willing to chime in and give great pointers/guidance/advice, thanks a ton!

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[migs]

the best graphic ive seen on the OG210's are the 2008 216 graphics.

[XBIGPUN66]

This

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[NautiqueJeff]

That won't work on an '03. The color stripes are not the same.

[bturner]

Bturner, when you say cross blocking is that a sanding technique to feather it out a bit?

Btw - this forum is definitely one of the greatest assets to owning a nautique, so many knowledgeable folks on here willing to chime in and give great pointers/guidance/advice, thanks a ton!

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Cross blocking is a sanding technique that you use when looking to flatten or blend an area. This is something typically seen in auto body but translates well with most finishing techniques. What you're basically looking to do (as I've been taught) is to take a 45 degree angle on the area you're working then approach the same area from an opposite 45 degree angle. When working with gel coat, since it's so soft I personally like to start blocking using a rubber sanding block thats' about 4" x 4" with the lightest grit paper that I can work with and still achieve the desired results even if that means working longer to achieve the desired result. The idea is to take the minimum amount of material off to achieve the final result. Using a rubber sanding block will keep you from putting groves in the gelcoat with your fingers as you sand the surface.

Two thing are very important when working with older gelcoat.

• The first is to remove any contaminants from the surface before sanding. The first step is washing the area aggressively. Here you're looking to remove wax or surface contaminates from the area. Dish soap is pretty good at this as it'll strip wax and oils from the surface.
• The second step is a deeper cleaning to remove and embedded contaminants. Gel coat is very porous and will trap dirty which can end up creating scratches in the sanding process that will require additional work to remove. I like to use a clay bar for this. the clay bar will pull the contaminants from the surface and will create a very smooth clean surface for you to start the sanding process from. You can use any clay bar you like but I've had a lot of luck with Mother's clay bar kits.

Once you've cleaned the surface you can start the sanding process. Here it's important to use water mixed with a some of the same dish soap (I like using dawn) to lubricate the working area that you're sanding. What I like to do is start the cross blocking doing 20 to 30 passes with moderate pressure in each direction then dry the area with a microfiber cloth. It may sound strange but keeping your water and the surface you're working clean is critical in achieving the desired results in the least amount of time. If you start noticing scratches that are deeper than the material you're working with you've probably pick up some dirt and this is what is causing the deeper scratches. If you see this change your water and thoroughly rinse your sanding materials.

The result will be somewhat unnerving as the area will appear completely white with fine scratches but don't panic. What you'll also see is where the high and low points are. The high points will indicate the areas where the decal was that have not been subjected to UV and the weather. What you're looking for is for the entire are to be uniform. If it isn't, rinse and repeat. As stated above it's important to change your water out if you see any hint of contamination and wash your working area with the between sanding.

Once you've achieved a uniformed finish/result you're ready for that 3 step 3M process. Start with the more aggressive compound work the area in a north/south then east/west pattern until the compound either drys or breaks down to the point where it's not effective any longer. The idea behind the direction of travel is that you're basically working the are again at a 45 degree angle to the scratches which will deliver the most effective finishing results. Wash the area again (you'll be doing this a lot). The scratches should start to disappear. Once the scratches are all but gone you'll start to see only the much lighter scratches from the compound. At this point you're ready to move to the next,finer compound.If you're doing most any color other that black repeating this same process with this lighter abrasive should get you to an acceptable finish and ready for either a glaze or wax. If you're doing a dark color or black going to the last and finer compound will finish off the surface to a near mirror finish.

When doing any of this it all about taking your time and working in small areas. I like to work in sections that are about 2' by 2'. As bad and time consuming as this sounds it's really not that bad as the entire boat will not need this level of attention. Not everything will need to be blocked and not all areas will need the 3 step process. The key will be to identify which areas need intense attention and to blend the finish into the ares that don't.

Hope this helps.....