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not a problem... it is a little longer but you will need the length when you route the cables..that is just the cc way of doing it..
if you break the plastic ballast valve handle, the replacement doesnt have the starboard, port, belly insignia... just pop out the old one with a really small screwdriver and put it on the new one...
the controls work great on my 05 211, and they havent leaked yet. Is there anything i can do to make sure they keep working and dont get sticky or freeze up? I have thought about putting some oil or silicone on the helm switches or cables.
I am getting a bit tired of the whole cable valve thing. My valves will probably be gone by next spring to be replaced by a 1.5" electric waste gate valve. Details coming soon...
one of my cables was starting to stick so for 12 bucks each I am changing them out before next season. But the more I think about it, the more I want a pushbutton solution. I'll be lurking around Mikeski's garage to see what I can shamelessly copy.
what valves can you find for 12 volts? dont think an electronic gate valve would fit in the confines of the boat, especially three of them. dont ask me how I know, been there, done that. I am working on a newer cable valve with a 1.5 opening, similar to your thinking, but keeping it non electric, etc. works with the newer tsunami 1200 pumps etc. I will get some pictures when its done, and working. Hopefully, cc will go back to something similar, yet faster filling and emptying.
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