How do you load your 220?

[pjdave]

After alot of trail and error this is what works for us. Coming from a pre 07 210 the wake was a big change and we have finally got it set up right for us.

The hydrogate is run between 2 and 3 moved back and forward helping clean up the wake side to side.

We usually ride factory ballast 442kgs/975lbs(pink) with 5 people (400kgs/881lbs) on top of a added 405kgs/892lbs lead (red). For a little more boot on the odd ocasion we also run an extra 108kgs/237lbs of lead (blue)

riding speed is 24mph.

How does everyone else load their 220?

[Osmosis]

Pjdave,

This is a great diagram! So with it weighted like so, how does it compare to the pre-07 210?

[wilcar]

Surprising i was expecting more in the nose. Tho better for towing with less lead in the nose. Can i ask why 5 shots of lead on the starboard side and only 4 on the port side?

[pjdave]

We ran our old 210 with 4 27kgs/59lbs bars in the nose, and one 27kg/59lb on each side under the rear seat. Factory ballast and usually 5 people 400kg/881lbs.

The wake behind the 220 will never be the same shape as a pre 07 210. But the 220 is such an easy "big" solid wake to ride.

I re-road a pre 07 210 with 600kgs/1321lbs factory ballast and 6 people last weekend (admittedly in salt) thinking i would fall in love with the old wake again, i was not impressed compared to our loaded 220. Dont get me wrong though, the 210 wake is awsome but i would take the 220 over it.

Add the extra 108kg/237lbs (blue weight) and the wake just gets bigger but steeper without the 210 "buck"at the top.

On a side note our dealer had a 236, 06 210, and 220 lined up for a photo shoot with shaun watson and keith lyman with justin stevens. expecting to load up the 210 for riding the boys took the 220 out.


The extra weight on the drivers/starboard side is to compensate for passenger loading. there always seems to be more weight on the passenger side once everyone is seated.



What weight does everyone think is acceptable to use in a boat for intermediate to advanced riders?

[wake_fun]

Wake Pics!!!!!!!!!!

We ran our old 210 with 4 27kgs/59lbs bars in the nose, and one 27kg/59lb on each side under the rear seat. Factory ballast and usually 5 people 400kg/881lbs.

The wake behind the 220 will never be the same shape as a pre 07 210. But the 220 is such an easy "big" solid wake to ride.

I re-road a pre 07 210 with 600kgs/1321lbs factory ballast and 6 people last weekend (admittedly in salt) thinking i would fall in love with the old wake again, i was not impressed compared to our loaded 220. Dont get me wrong though, the 210 wake is awsome but i would take the 220 over it.

Add the extra 108kg/237lbs (blue weight) and the wake just gets bigger but steeper without the 210 "buck"at the top.

On a side note our dealer had a 236, 06 210, and 220 lined up for a photo shoot with shaun watson and keith lyman with justin stevens. expecting to load up the 210 for riding the boys took the 220 out.


The extra weight on the drivers/starboard side is to compensate for passenger loading. there always seems to be more weight on the passenger side once everyone is seated.



What weight does everyone think is acceptable to use in a boat for intermediate to advanced riders?

[SierraAzul]

What speed and wakegate setting do people drive a 220 at with full factory ballast, no additional weight and around 4 people in the boat for the optimum wakeboarding wake? Thanks.

[pjdave]

I personally think wake pics are useless. All taken from different angles, different length ropes, different water depth, so many vaiables.

This is how we have found it best to load our 220.

sierraazul... The 220 wake needs to be ridden quick still riding up at 23.5 with the standard ballast an 4 people. The gate is set the same trimming out the crumble from side to side.

[tdc_worm]

i will let you know by the end of the weekend what we find optimal. we are taking way too many sacks that hold way too much water just to try to get it dialed in. all of it will eventually be plumbed. we messed with it last night a little, and the boat seemed to like weight in the rear, otherwise it would develope a nasty little curl and was extremely side to side weight sensitive...

[jonfo]

The only constant is that more weight creates a larger wake and uses more gas, and everybody likes different size wakes. I believe there is no exact amount of weight to always use for a specific boat for the optimal wake, there are too many variables such as water conditions, wind, rope length, rider ability, driver ability, lake depth, lake length, altitude, temperature, etc. What works one day wont work as well the next. The only time i run full ballast (factory + my additional 2000lbs of plumbing) on my 211 is when the conditions are perfect and the driver is perfect and I feel like a big wake that day, otherwise sometimes i just ride with factory ballast. I think the best rule of thumb i have learned is to keep the angle of the hull approximately the same when weighted as it is when empty. The engineers of most boats probably did a lot of testing of the hull with no weight or maybe factory ballast to make it handle and not have a washed out wake and not porpoise or cavitate. If you change that by putting a bunch more weight in the rear to make the nose ride high, you may get a steeper wake but the boat will probally handle terrible or porpoise. Put a level somewhere on your boat at 0 mph when it is empty and note where it is. Adjust whatever ballast you have so when it is at 0 mph it is at the same level as it was when it was empty.

I agree the pictures of wakes can be useless unless you know every variable about the picture. If the camera is down near the water the wake will look huge on any boat at 22mph from that perspective...

[tdc_worm]

The only constant is that more weight creates a larger wake and uses more gas, and everybody likes different size wakes. I believe there is no exact amount of weight to always use for a specific boat for the optimal wake, there are too many variables such as water conditions, wind, rope length, rider ability, driver ability, lake depth, lake length, altitude, temperature, etc. What works one day wont work as well the next. The only time i run full ballast (factory + my additional 2000lbs of plumbing) on my 211 is when the conditions are perfect and the driver is perfect and I feel like a big wake that day, otherwise sometimes i just ride with factory ballast. I think the best rule of thumb i have learned is to keep the angle of the hull approximately the same when weighted as it is when empty. The engineers of most boats probably did a lot of testing of the hull with no weight or maybe factory ballast to make it handle and not have a washed out wake and not porpoise or cavitate. If you change that by putting a bunch more weight in the rear to make the nose ride high, you may get a steeper wake but the boat will probally handle terrible or porpoise. Put a level somewhere on your boat at 0 mph when it is empty and note where it is. Adjust whatever ballast you have so when it is at 0 mph it is at the same level as it was when it was empty.

I agree the pictures of wakes can be useless unless you know every variable about the picture. If the camera is down near the water the wake will look huge on any boat at 22mph from that perspective...

thanks for the input, as i feel it was aimed at me. i do have to disagree however. more weight doesnt always mean a bigger wake. your wake will eventually wash over on itself if the only variable you change is adding weight. you will eventually have to increase your speed to counter for the added weight in order to clean up the wake.

the best rule of thumb i have learned is to expirment with weight placement, speed, and line length until you get an optimal shaped wake (rider preference). this is my 6th boat, and all of the previous ones i owned responded differently to weight placement.

and should i use the level when the hydrogate is up, down, or in the middle? passengers in the bow. amdiship, or astern? as you suggested, there are too many variables for one specific setup to always be ideal.

i do have to agree with wake pictures. they are worthless because of infinite variables...

[pjdave]

Like i said above, this weighting idea works for us. It took us 5 months of owning a 220 to get it the way we like. I wish someone had headed us in the right direction before now.

lets know how you went tdc worm

[Deester]

i will let you know by the end of the weekend what we find optimal. we are taking way too many sacks that hold way too much water just to try to get it dialed in. all of it will eventually be plumbed. we messed with it last night a little, and the boat seemed to like weight in the rear, otherwise it would develope a nasty little curl and was extremely side to side weight sensitive...

tdc....did you get a chance to dial in your 220? what can be done to help with the side to side wake wash? how did yours turn out?