Crossover 236 Questions for Owners

[yeaitsmemarc]

Hey Hey- Just traded in my Malibu Wakesetter for a Crossover 236 (very pumped)... Few questions I'm hoping someone can help me w/.

1- What octane gas should I use (is regular OK?) *It has the 6 liter 375 horsepower block...

2- I read on another thread that the perfect pass has a hard time holding speed b/c of the size of the 236.. is it neccessary to change those special settings?

3- It's a "left-handed prop" so do you notice a "cleaner" or "better side for wakesurfing??

THANKS FOR THE HELP!

Get some,

-Marc

[NautiqueJeff]

RE: Crossover 236 Questions for Owners

Run regular 87 octane gas. That's what your engine is calibrated for. I've been running my new 236 (ZR6) on 87 all summer and it has been great.

Yes, you will need to adjust the settings. Here's what I used (back when I used PP). I will say though that Zero Off is GREAT!

Okay, I got mine totally dialed in today. It is keeping speed well no matter what now. Try these settings:

CS: 680
CR: 1540
KDW: 235 <--- This needs to be really high due to the weight of the 236.
NN: 60

I'd suggest keeping the override setting off unless you're a very experienced driver.

I have surfed both sides of the 236 wake, and I didn't really notice a difference. I prefer starboard side, even though the prop rotation dictates otherwise.

Post some pictures of the boat in the Show Us Your Nautique section!!

[yeaitsmemarc]

RE: Crossover 236 Questions for Owners

Hey Jeff- Thanks for the response. Just thought of another question or two.. I have heard that the ballast gauges are "sticky" have you had this problem?? If so, any way to fix this? Secondly in terms of ballast, the boat only came with two hard-tanks in the rear and I have started thinking about how to weight the boat.. With regard to your post on how you ballast your 236,

"I run 300 pounds of lead under the back seat, 400 pounds in the ski locker, and 350 pounds under the side seats in the bow. That, added to the stock ballast with the Hydro-Gate all the way up (Sport-Shift all the way back) makes for a VERY nice wake at 23 MPH. I keep forgetting to get pictures. I'll try to remember tomorrow when we head out.

Where do you get the lead & how do you store it? Lastly, do you keep those other ballasts loaded at all times & does that destroy your gas mileage? Thanks again for your help. Will post some pics this wk. end...

-Marc

[NautiqueJeff]

RE: Crossover 236 Questions for Owners

I have experienced the sticky gauges, but I have found a workaround. I find that if I turn on the pumps to fill the tanks, the gauges don't move until I turn the pumps off and back on. I usually fill for a minute or so, then turn the pumps off and back on, and then the gauges work properly. Weird, huh?

Does your boat not have the center tank? My lead was poured and formed by a fellow PN member for me. It is in 25-pound blocks, and is painted to reduce lead dust. The lead stays in the boat at all times, but I fill and empty the tanks as needed. It only take about five minutes at the most. It is a heavy boat and has a big engine, so it does go through some gas. It isn't as bad as it could be though. I bet the Excalibur 330 engine would use more because it would have to work harder.

[yeaitsmemarc]

Naww no center or front tanks... The boat was sitting on the dealer's lot and he made us a good deal to take it "as is" before the 08's come in...

I think over the winter I will do some plumbing and retro-fit a tank into the ski-locker area. In the meantime I think I will just go through the hassle of manually filling/emptying fat sacks. I was thinking about just leaving one filled in the walk-thru under the playpen filler cushion...

[NautiqueJeff]

The nice thing about the factory center tank is that it is U-shaped. It doesn't take up ANY of the ski locker room at all. It wraps around it.

[Erik]

Jeff how much weight is in that center tank?

[yeaitsmemarc]

The 236 was delivered on Saturday and I put 10 hrs. on it within a day... I have only good things to report about the boat... Still had a few questions the dealer left unanswered...

1- If I leave my boat in the water for a few days do I flip the toggle switch next to the ignition to "bilge only" or "all off." Also, should I turn the battery saver from "both" to "off?"

2- With regard to the battery saver should I simply leave that on "both" at all times?

3- Going back to those perfect pass specs you dialed in.. are they also good for an unweighted 236 (like for skiing) or should I only use those KD, NN, etc. when I have the boat loaded up.

Will post some pics soon... it's definately a beutiful boat & I'm super happy w/the Nautique decision.

[SquamInboards]

I don't know that particular boat well, but in general, you should leave it on "bilge only" so that any water that might be in the boat or come in while it's sitting there would be pumped out automatically. On that note, you should leave it on battery "1" or "2" (one battery or the other) not "both" or "off" - "off" will ensure that nothing gets power, unless the bilge is hardwired straight to a battery, but I doubt it. If you put it on "both" and god forbid something was left on and drained battery power, then you'd come back to 2 dead batteries. With leaving it on a single battery, you can always start the boat with the second battery (if needed), then switch to "both" while running it.
If anyone knows the wiring of the switch in this particular boat, they could prove me wrong on the switch theory I just told you, but that's how it works in most boats I deal with.
What everyone should have is a battery isolator, that always charges both batteries while the engine is running, and disconnects them so both can't be drained in the event one has a draw, like a pump or a light left on, whatever. Then there's no switch to deal with, ever, and no dead boat, ever.

[TRBenj]

What everyone should have is a battery isolator, that always charges both batteries while the engine is running, and disconnects them so both can't be drained in the event one has a draw, like a pump or a light left on, whatever. Then there's no switch to deal with, ever, and no dead boat, ever.

You can still have both batteries go dead if there is a load left on each one (obviously). The only problem with running an isolator exclusively is that you cant start your boat off the 2nd battery if the 1st one goes dead. A better solution is to utilize both an isolator/combiner AND a manual switch (Perko). That way you have seemless starting/charging, plus the option to start from either battery should the need arise.

This doesnt answer the OP's question- but not having seen a newer schematic either, Ill say Squam is probably correct.

[tdc_worm]

Here is my take on it (feel free to chime in if my rationale is not rational!)

1- If I leave my boat in the water for a few days do I flip the toggle switch next to the ignition to "bilge only" or "all off." Also, should I turn the battery saver from "both" to "off?"

the new automatic bilge pumps are run off of a timer, not a float. this is to eliminate problems with stuck floats not triggering the bilge to empty. obviously for it to work, you should switch it to bilge only. i would always switch it to all off first, which ensures that all other electrical draws are turned off, then i would switch it back to bilge only. that is probably an unnecessary step that gives me comfort.

2- With regard to the battery saver should I simply leave that on "both" at all times?

i am not sure which battery the pumps are wired to draw from. try switching the battery from bank 1 to bank 2 and manually engage the bilge pumps. leave that battery bank on. better yet, go to any auto part store and spring for a $50 battery jumper and leave both batteries on all the time...that's my solution. i always carry the battery jumper with me anyhow.

when i am on the trailer, everything gets turned off i just pull the drain plug...

[MikeC]

Here's what the owners manual says, pages 4-43 to 4-44 answers both questions:

"The battery selector switch allows you to isolate the boat from the batteries, and switch to the primary, secondary or both batteries. Under normal conditions, the switch shoud be in the ON position for one battery rather than the ON position for both batteries. This will keep one battery in reserve should the other fail. Battery selection shoud be done when the engine is off. Alternate batteries daily. In the OFF position, the boat will be isolated from the batteries. The purpose of the battery selector switch is to keep one as a spare. If both batteries are ON and one battery is used to start you engine, and the other for accessories, both batteries will become discharged. This will eliminate your spare and could leave you stranded."

"Automatic Bilge Panel
Bilge Pump Only Mode- This feature is activated by a switch located on the side console. The switch has three positions, ON, OFF and BILGE. If the boat is going to sit for more than a few days with the bilge pumps on, it is important the switch is set in the BILGE position to minimize battery drain. This will activate the bilge pump and shut off power to the Serial Switching and Keyless Ignition System. It is important to remember the engine or other accessories can not be used unless the switch is in the ON position."

Sorry so long but that's how CC put it.

[SquamInboards]

I'm impressed that the manual is that thorough, and reasonably accurate. TRBenj - I agree, that having both a switch and an isolator is probably the best thing. If properly wired, an isolator shouldn't allow the starter battery to discharge, but **** happens, and in my own boat, I like to have my manual switch so I know that I always have one reserve battery, and I'm never stranded, like the CC manual says... and you should alternate frequently to keep them both maintained. My GMC's manual is nowhere near that useful.