new 2001 SAN. andi have a ton of ?s help......

[peterkarlsson]

One very simple remedy can be to drive the boat slowly. On my Pro Air the fill pump sometimes don't want to prime so by just driving in idle for a few secs create the needed pressure to get the pump started.
This is with a brand new stock pump.

I have replaced the drain pump with the Attwood Tsunami pump from Wakeside and it seems much faster than the stock pump. So I will replace the fill pump too.

[airhuck]

i tore the back out of the NUATI this weekend to check out the ballast system. this is what i found:

the fill pump flows water about as fast as a very slow water hose w/ hardly any pressure. it also fills weather the seacock is on or off. is this right? i have 750 GPHs as a fill and drain. i thought they would fill faster.

[Laptom]

The pumps should be pumping harder (750GPH is 12.5 gallon every minute). Also the seacock should open and shut properly. It's just a ball-valve.

I would replace the pumps, hoses and seacock. It's a total of $200,- , 2 hours of labor and you ballast system is working for the next few years. Also check if the bleeding valves will work (at the driver).

[WakeSlayer]

for $1000 you can put in an extremely fast, reliable, heavy system. I cut out my Launch Control system as soon as I got my 99. Not a fan of the original built in systems at all.

[airhuck]

The pumps should be pumping harder (750GPH is 12.5 gallon every minute). Also the seacock should open and shut properly. It's just a ball-valve.

I would replace the pumps, hoses and seacock. It's a total of $200,- , 2 hours of labor and you ballast system is working for the next few years. Also check if the bleeding valves will work (at the driver).

is there a certain after market pump that is more than 750 GPH that mounts up the way the stock ones do? somone posted earlier about a 1200 TSUNAMI pump.

thanks!

[WakeSlayer]

the Tsunami is awesome, $100 from Flyhigh, or www.trickboardz.com, free shipping

[scooby]

The tsunami 1200 is nice but is has different size fittings for the threads and may not fit through the currently placed mounting brackets. Attwood also make a tsunami 800 which I currently use to fill and drain my front and back. You can find them for about 30 bucks.

[airhuck]

those of yall familiar w/ the plumbing of teh SAN ballast system i want to make sure mine wasnt tampered w/ by a prevoius owner. mine is plumbed like this:

seacock valve >fill pump>drain pump> to spliter T>to each side ballast.

is this right? seems like its gotta have a lot of pressure to go from the fill pump through the drain pump....

[Laptom]

That sounds right... It looks a bit strange, but that's how CC implemented the ballast tanks the first couple of years.

[peterkarlsson]

> is this right? seems like its gotta have a lot of pressure to go from the fill pump through the drain pump....

Yeah, it doesn't take a lot of pressure to go through the pump in reverse since these pumps are not self priming.
But if you want max from your pump it's better with a straight line of course.

I second that the big 1200 Tsunami is great, we use it to fill and empty extra ballast sacks.
But if you want to install that into your boat you would need to change the water intake, seacock, both pumps, and hoses up to the splitter T.
Since you split at the T you could really use twice the flow from the single hose.
It could very well be worth it, it's actually something I'm considering for next year.

The flow from the 750 stock pump should almost be like a standard garden hose but the pressure isn't the same if you block the flow.

[airhuck]

[quote="peterkarlsson"]> But if you want to install that into your boat you would need to change the water intake, seacock, both pumps, and hoses up to the splitter T.
quote]

why would you have to change the sea **** and hoses?

[peterkarlsson]

It's because these pumps loose much of their flow capacity if they have to create additional pressure.
So you want as large hoses etc as possible to get low pressure, that's also why the pumps come with the strange 1 1/8 fittings.
I've actually never checked but I assume that CC used the same hoses dimensions after the splitter T to each of the tanks.
This means that to get max flow you need to double that hose size before the T and all the way to the sea ****.

So you don't need to do this it's just the most effective setup IMHO so you can get max from the pumps.

[airhuck]

i finally figured it out last night. even though the sea **** was turning, the ball valve was stuck in a mostly closed position. thats why it was taking 30 min to fill the ballasts. we bought a new ball valve and filled the ballasts in 5 minutes last night. WOO HOO.


however, it seems like it took a little longer to drain. is this usually the case? logic tells me it should be easier to suck water through a small hose, rather than push water through a small hole....

[Laptom]

This is normal. When the boat is still the ballast will drain faster then when it's running. But the difference is rather small. Good that you found the problem!